Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting?

   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #131  
My area has mainly fir, pine and birch. I have found it best to cut mature birch before they die. If left until they are completely dead much is wasted to rot. They rot quickly if left standing. If you see bracket fungus (semi circular grey growth) on the bark it is already too late. In early fall I check the birches and mark those whose tops are very sparse or have some sign of dying to distinguish them from healthy trees once the leaves are off.

Also, one cannot leave a felled birch as it will quickly rot because of the tight bark. I run the chainsaw the length of the tree to score the bark--even if I am going to immediately cut it to firewood lengths. The bark will open and peel itself off in a month or two and it is great for firestarter.

The last few years pine beetles have killed most mature pines. Even standing, they will start to rot after a few years. Fir are much more resistant to rot.

Agreed........ I use the same tactics, except I have found that bucking the birch and splitting (TPH splitter 30" throw) tears the bark off quite effectively
and leaves it where I can pick it up in big pieces and stack it along side the wood pile.

The same situation goes for Beech, though dead beech drys pretty effectively standing. The thing is that when the tops of beech show the tree is under real stress, it almost always means it is bug infested and it wil only ger worse. Better off to fell, buck and split them and kill the larve in the tree before they mature and infect other healthy trees. Beech makes VERY nice firewood, and I have a vast over abundance of it.

Thanks, I guess that is the difference. Almost all of the dead trees I cut are either oak, or cherry for the most part and they seem to dry very well standing.
 
   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #132  
The same situation goes for Beech, though dead beech drys pretty effectively standing. The thing is that when the tops of beech show the tree is under real stress, it almost always means it is bug infested and it wil only ger worse. Better off to fell, buck and split them and kill the larve in the tree before they mature and infect other healthy trees. Beech makes VERY nice firewood, and I have a vast over abundance of it.
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Most of the beech in my 50 acres is dying of a fungus that's transmitted by insect. The bark shows little vertical cracks, then 1-2 years later the tree isn't burnable any more. Once dropped and split, the wood will last a few years for burning. So, I'm cutting a lot of beech. I love the smooth-barked old timers, but many of the 10-14" dbh trees are goners.
For my one-man operation, trailering the logs to near the shed results in the least labor per btu. Now if I could find a second-hand conveyor...
Jim
 
   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #133  
Gordon
That pic is a capstan winch, right? What brand is it?
What are you logging?

Right capstan. Brand is Portable Winch. It isn't mine but the fellow using it is logging cedar. Some quite big. The little stand makes it alot nicer to use. It is like a hunters tree seat.
 
   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #134  
I really don't want to shorten my nice long rope, everytime I use it.

That is why we mentioned attaching a hook on the end and leaving that always in place. Another option is to leave a loop there and then use a heavy D-ring or as i like to use, a 5000 lb rated carabiner.

Anyone know how easy a figure 8 looped knot not is to untie after a load of 5000 lbs?

Ken
 
   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #136  
I use a bent grab hook spliced into the end of my nylon rope, you simply hook it onto a chain choker. The rope stays in good shape and the chain takes the abrasion. Using the rope itself is asking for trouble if it runs up into a sharp rock.

Sean
 
   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #137  
Anyone know how easy a figure 8 looped knot not is to untie after a load of 5000 lbs?
A lot easier to untie than a overhand knot (an overhand knot that has been used for such a load would need pliers or a knife to remove it), but not as easy as a carabiner.

Aaron Z
 
   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #138  
Henry Ford said "When you heat with wood, you warm yourself twice."
Once when you cut it and once when you burn it.
 
   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #139  
My son and I were out in the woods today "harvesting" downed wood. Just got our wood stove plumbed in and operational in the last few days. We only had a limited amount of seasoned wood (originally put up for camping and bon-fires), and I can't see paying for what we have laying around...

We have about 20 acres of timber, so plenty of dry downed wood from past wind storms and such. A winch would be nice, but there is a lot to be said for having a 13 year old's strong back and legs!

I would cut up sections with the chain saw, then both of us would split (axe and maul) the sections, and he would run them out to the trail (atv) and put them in the bed of the pickup while I was cutting up the next batch with the saw. In a couple hours, we were able to put up enough for quite a while - good thing, cuz there is a big snow storm coming this evening...

Unfortunately, where we were working today, there was no way to get the tractor or wood splitter in to do the work. But it was a nice day, and I got to spend some time working with my son, and we can now heat the house for free! win win in my book!!!
 
   / Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting? #140  
That is a beautiful shed!!!

Thanks. 10' X 16' PT 6x6 base with mortised corner braces. Set on flat stones as needed to level. Stones placed at four corners and centers of 16' spans. Filled with 3/4" crushed ledge. The rest is just standard framing and sided with 1X4 rough cut pine. Front rafter plate 8' high rear 6'. Holds about 7 cord.
 
 
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