Snow Advantages/Disadvantages of Snow Plow/Blower/Scraper Blade

[Poopdeck Pappy]

After reading this thread, I'm thankful I live in Texas. But, I might not be so thankful next summer when it's 100 degrees here.

 

[BTDT2]

Sorry, but I had to add my 2 cents worth.
After plowing for 48 years I have used everything.
2 wdd ford w front and back blades
2 wd ford w front blower and rear blade
Various Case loaders
Various Case dozers
International and Fors dumps 10, 12 foot highway plows
Blazer, dodge and chevy 4wd

I have come to the following opinion... The skills of the operator makes them all work well.
What I use today and like the best
M/F 3760 fwd w/ fel. Factory cab with heater and ac makes me a great operator.
Ram 3500 Cummins 4WD And SnowDogg v 8.5 VE doesn't hurt either.Warm is happy
When the Ram wont handle it the Massey does.

Plowing with heat and no wind is wonderful.

Totally agree. Snow plowing in a t-shirt at age 66 is priceless. Biggest regret is waiting so long to get a cab with a/c and HST +

 

[MountainDigger]

I think the key to the choice of blade, scraper or FEL is two fold. How deep is the snow and does it drift. The second part is what you trying to clear, a parking lot, a driveway or area's around building.

In an open meadow or farm field with large drifts it would seem that a snow blower would work the best by physically removing the snow so a canyon created from multiple plowing efforts doesn't create a deep trench over the winter. A blower on front end of the tractor will eliminate the stiff neck from a blower mounted on the 3 point hitch and backing up. A front end blower for my Massey priced out at $12k vs. 8k for a frame mounted plow blade.

For around buildings I would think a FEL would be the best apparatus. It gives the ability to push snow as well as being able physically remove it to some where else. When using the FEL as a plow on a driveway The first single pass works great as snow just peals off to either side of the tractor. But to widen the path requires a series of angled pushes. If you just just go straight the loader fills and deposits snow where you just cleared. That was my experience. I was cautioned by the dealer about quick attached plow blades on FEL arms. I was told that if you hit something solid like a large rock, post or concrete curb that a FEL arm could get bent. I purchased a frame mounted plow.

I live 9700 ft. In Gilpin County, Colorado. I have long (5/8's of mile) single lane drive. Each side of the road has a wide ditch to push the snow into so I went with a frame mounted snow plow blade. I don't get a lot of deep drifts. I have a 1643 MF with a 6 ft. Blade with round disc shoes for a gravel road. This combination works well for me.

The drive way has a maximum pitch of 12% for fire access. This doesn't sound steep but with freeze/ thaw cycles ice easily forms and 4 wheel drive and chains are must for me. I also have a heated cab which takes the chore part of plowing away.

I usually make the first pass driving down hill in the center of the drive way. The second and third passes are on the left side then then the right side. This works well for me. The only trouble I have had is when I had chain on the front right side come loose and snag a hydraulic hose. Fortunately a saw what was happening and stopped before tearing anything up.

I do have 3 point grader and have played with plowing with the grader off set to one and at angle. This increased my total plowing width but watching both ends of tractor was a hassle. This year it think I will leave the grader off.

Thanks Brad

 

[grsthegreat]

Last year i tried a new method, as i was taking too long to blow all my driveways, paths and stalls...not to mention the neighbors driveways ive contracted out. . Now i use the plow for the center pass on all my driveways... 2 directions. this builds a windrow on both sides of the driveway. For the last pass i run the snowblower to get rid of the windrows. I was able to cut out over an hour and a half on my plowing times doing this last year. Works great as long as i get it before it goes over 8" of snowfall. after that, the windrows would get too tall.

 

[check]

Last year i tried a new method, as i was taking too long to blow all my driveways, paths and stalls...not to mention the neighbors driveways ive contracted out. . Now i use the plow for the center pass on all my driveways... 2 directions. this builds a windrow on both sides of the driveway. For the last pass i run the snowblower to get rid of the windrows. I was able to cut out over an hour and a half on my plowing times doing this last year. Works great as long as i get it before it goes over 8" of snowfall. after that, the windrows would get too tall.

I agree. Plow first (I use my ATV), then blow. Much faster. ATV goes like stink, and easily plows 8" deep with its 60" blade. Also, the ATV has surprisingly good traction. (Much better than the tractor, unless you have chains.)

 

[WilliamBos]

I agree. Plow first (I use my ATV), then blow. Much faster.

Are you using a tiny blower?

 

[check]

Nope. 51" rear blower on a Kubota BX25, and it will cut through anything. Only problem is, tractors are VERY slow, even on "Rabbit", and they have to take the time to throw the snow. With the (angled) ATV plow, however, you can boot along very quickly, and the snow just curls off to the side. It is rare that the snow is so hard that the plow on the ATV will not send it flying to the side as I whiz down the driveway, yelling "whoo hoo!"

 

[NHbotanut]

I also have a long driveway with a 10% grade. I have a 6 1/2 plow blade, and a 60" rear blower. My first pass is down hill on the Left side with the plow angled to the Right. If I am in a rush, I back up the driveway with the blower. This gives me more than enough room for the wife and I to get to work. later when I get home, I make 1 more pass downhill on the Right side with the plow angled to the right.

I have no snowbanks, and any snow on the driveway melts during the day.

 

[skyhook]

Nice thread, we live by the river and the wind is pretty fierce at times.
I take care of the road, about 1/2 mile long, curves and hill's, a real treat.
I use a power angle, front blade, my tractor never came with a loader.
I "had" installed a rear push blower on it,
and as a few stated, if your up in age, it does get hard on the neck,
facing backwards all the time.
So this year, I purchased a rear "pull" blower, haven't installed it yet, but can't wait to test er out.
The push one will be going up for sale.
I also added a foot and half to each side on the front blade,
this thing will go through anything, in the summer, I remove the add-on's,
and can use the front blade to grade etc. I also have a rear blade that I
have never used in the winter.
What I have found is a good front blade, ( whether it be attached to your bucket or not)
and a good rear blower, I prefer the pull type, ( I think,lol )
and if needed, a set of chains and your set to go.

My newly purchased blower.

 

[Goodwinch]

Tried a F.M. blower, works great but you need a discharge area along your path. Real problem when working around buildings. I was able to stockpile the snow and then haul it off with loader. Too much work changing from blower to loader. Went back to scraper blade and loader. BTW I've got the L2194 blower pkg for sale