Grading Backwards Back Blade Boys

[Anonymous Poster]

Hi,

Second time there was enough snow here to pretend it was worth using the tractor.../w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif...mabye five inches...

So I tried running the back blade backwards as others have reported luck doing that.

Now I can report first hand that this technique works quite well. No real digging in to the gravel, pretty slick for snow.

Forgot who first mentioned doing this, but thanks much, as using something backwards from how it is designed to be used sometimes just doesn't enter my head!

So I guess I have now joined the ranks of the BBB Boys!

Attached is an "action" shot.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bill in Pgh, PA

 

[JohnMiller3]

Sharp picture Bill...

After you have an initial top hardened snow layer ,(whether over gravel or blacktop...)

...If you adjust your top-link properly to where the angle of attack of the cutting edge of the blade is "trailing" "\" vs. "leading" "/", with the blade in the normal forward position... the snow glides/rolls just nice along the moldboard as per its design...

In the normal forward position, you'll have less drag and use less "hp" to move snow/dirt/etc... (or in other words, you can make max use of all your available tractor hp when the blade is facing forwards...) /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

(all of the above will be reversed... if you mainly plow snow going backwards with the tractor...)

 

[chim]

I often turn the scraper blade around when pushing snow off the edge of the blacktopped parking area and onto the grass. Otherwise it has a tendency to scrape up some sod when it leaves the blacktop.

Another time it gets used backwards is spreading topsoil, but it certainly isn't the season to be planning that. Just stepped outside a bit ago and it was cold and snowing lightly...............chim

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Sorry guys but I will be plowing forward. My back can't take all of the looking backwards. My father in law has an old Avery with a mid mount blade. It is great for plowing snow. Haven't found one for my tractor yet. Well at least not cheap enough

 

[Anonymous Poster]

John,

I tried doing that initially, but came to the conclusion that in order for my blade to swing around at any angle and stay level, I needed to extend my top link until the pivot point was vertical...

Seems if I use the top link lenght to adjust the tilt of the blade, then it will only be level at whatever angle I have the blade set at that time. As soon as I rotate the blade, which I have set level with the side like [or whatever it is called] after adjusting the slope of the blade with the top link, then, because the pivot point also angles with the blade, I cannot have a level blade at any other setting.

Now, after setting the top link length as required to make the pivot point vertical, the blade stays level as I rotate it 360 degrees. AND it seemed to work better than my first attemp...but using it backwards even seems to work better than anything, as far as keeping from digging into the ground.

I did notice that the blade did at time want to float rather than did in. Atleast that is what I THOUGHT was happening. Just had this feeling that a heavier blade would cut into the snow just a bit better sometimes...

All in all though, I was very pleased with the way it worked...though we only had a little snow. But since around here a foot of snow is a bit storm...this method may be a winning solution...

John, wouldn't a forward tilted blade going in the forward direction, and a backwards blade going in the forward direction essentially have the same effect? I am having trouble seeing how one would require much more, if any, power over the other for the same result...

Bill in Pgh, PA

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color=blue>...the blade did at time want to float rather than did in...</font color=blue>

Yes... that's right... that's adjusted properly and it acts as a safety valve if you inadvertently hit an obstruction... the rear blade will float/kick upwards (remember you're removing snow... not the top layer of blacktop or gravel)

When you're back blading for grading/leveling purposes you then change your attack angle so it will cut more... but not for snow removal...

<font color=blue>...a backwards blade going in the forward direction essentially have the same effect?...</font color=blue>

No... when your moldboard is "backwards" you no longer have that "designed contour" to roll the snow off as easily... it requires more hp to move snow this way...

You want to adjust the blade to be advantageous to your conditions... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[frank_f15]

/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif i might have to try that! wonder if it would work the same if i had the blade turned 180 deg, from yours and drove backwards?

 

[cchoate]

I like those chains, did they come with the tensioners? Where did you pick them up?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Frank,

Should work the same in both directions as long as when you rotate the blace the angle does not change due to the pivot angle of the point of rotation. You might have to make an adjustment if that pivot point is not vertical.

At least I think it should...did not try that yet...

Bill

 

[Anonymous Poster]

cchoate,

The chains and tensioners came from tirechains.com. I like the tensioners a lot...I forget what they cost...but the price is listed at their web site. They have a cheaper one, but these with the ring in the middle seemed the best to me...

Bill