Four Wheel Drive

[SPYDERLK]

Braking is a good point...but using lower gears or range helps. Always a good idea to start down slow rather then try to brake so you get the maximum engine braking...this applies to both 2WD and 4WD applications.

That "braking" benefit would be applicable to engine or regular. Any [forward] "braking" situation transfers groundforce to the front wheels while subtracting equally from the rear.
larry

 

[RoyJackson]

What Larry and I are talking about can't be fixed with lower gearing. It's when the rear tires let loose and are sliding/slipping down the hill. 4wd removes all that. The front tires have all the weight on them and will not slip as easily.

But then I have the times when I'm an idiot and trying to work on slopes that are muddy and slick. Sliding out of control down a timbered trail with all four tires sliding is NOT fun!!! TREE!!!!! :ashamed:

Can't say I've ever had the rear tires break loose (other then on wet grass...and the fronts were slipping too, so 4WD wasn't a help).
As long as I had control starting down slope...even in 2WD, never lost it otherwise (except for the wet grass...once).
4Wd is great, but it's not a cure for all circumstances.

 

[k0ua]

Can't say I've ever had the rear tires break loose (other then on wet grass...and the fronts were slipping too, so 4WD wasn't a help).
As long as I had control starting down slope...even in 2WD, never lost it otherwise (except for the wet grass...once).
4Wd is great, but it's not a cure for all circumstances.

I have had it happen Roy, in 2WD with a B7500DT in 2nd gear going down a hill on the road, throttle down to about 1200 rpm with a load of gravel in the bucket held low. I had been down the road many times in 4WD and got to thinking I should really be in 2WD to minimize wear and tear on the front. The compression (engine) braking caused the rear tires to slide on the road (the road had some small gravel on top of it) once they start to slip the slipping and sliding gets worse as the speed increases. With 4WD the breaking loose will not occur in the first place, as the engine braking has more tire surface to work with in the first place, and the tractor goes down the hill in a controlled manner. I will swap wear and tear on tires and driveline components to an uncontrolled slide.

James K0UA

 

[Short Game]

I will swap wear and tear on tires and driveline components to an uncontrolled slide.

That's just how I feel about it. I usually remember that I had put it into 2WD when I get out of whack. Hopefully, it's not too late.

Maybe the problem with needing to be in four wheel most of the time is expecting to be in it when I'm not.

I've done a complete front axle rebuild so I know I can do it if I have to.

It seems that my new LS's fronts don't claw as aggressively as my old Cub Cadet did. With more weight and a larger footprint, that's probably about right for the difference.

 

[RoyJackson]

I have had it happen Roy, in 2WD with a B7500DT in 2nd gear going down a hill on the road, throttle down to about 1200 rpm with a load of gravel in the bucket held low. I had been down the road many times in 4WD and got to thinking I should really be in 2WD to minimize wear and tear on the front. The compression (engine) braking caused the rear tires to slide on the road (the road had some small gravel on top of it) once they start to slip the slipping and sliding gets worse as the speed increases. With 4WD the breaking loose will not occur in the first place, as the engine braking has more tire surface to work with in the first place, and the tractor goes down the hill in a controlled manner. I will swap wear and tear on tires and driveline components to an uncontrolled slide.

James K0UA

Good point!!
Question now is, did you have ballast on the rear? If I'm using my bucket, I have the ballast box on the 3PH. Although I've never had to do this (yet), if I had a bucket load and no rear ballast, I'd probably back down the slope.
Maybe I've just been lucky (except for the slide down wet grass).

 

[k0ua]

Good point!!
Question now is, did you have ballast on the rear? If I'm using my bucket, I have the ballast box on the 3PH. Although I've never had to do this (yet), if I had a bucket load and no rear ballast, I'd probably back down the slope.
Maybe I've just been lucky (except for the slide down wet grass).

I had an implement on the back, but probably not enough weight, I know more about having enough weight on the back than I did then. But you can bet it was in 4WD for the rest of the many trips I made down the hill that day! ( after I stopped and cleaned the seat)

James K0UA

 

[TNTractor1]

Yeah but what do you know, heck you like Clint Eastwood!!!

Clint's the MAN!!! :thumbsup:

Clint is the man! One of my favorites... especially the westerns. :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Good point!!
Question now is, did you have ballast on the rear? If I'm using my bucket, I have the ballast box on the 3PH. Although I've never had to do this (yet), if I had a bucket load and no rear ballast, I'd probably back down the slope.
Maybe I've just been lucky (except for the slide down wet grass).

Ballast smallast, steep enough hill and you need 4wd.

Sometimes on here I forget that different people work in different circumstances. For me most of my loader work is done in steep timber land. When I'm on flat/semi flat ground I dont pay so much attention. But when I go into the timber it's 4wd all the way.

 

[RoyJackson]

Ballast smallast, steep enough hill and you need 4wd.

Sometimes on here I forget that different people work in different circumstances. For me most of my loader work is done in steep timber land. When I'm on flat/semi flat ground I dont pay so much attention. But when I go into the timber it's 4wd all the way.

The second bolded sentence explains why the first bolded phrase was a foolish thing to write...

 

[silvertramp]

Ballast smallast, steep enough hill and you need 4wd.

Absolutely correct!