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  1. #11
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    what about a tire schrader valve with no core....

    soundguy

  2. #12
    Bronze Member Tibbits's Avatar
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    L3430 GST, BX1500

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    Hmmm. All good info - thanks to all. Seems the only good way to fuse the plastic involves heat + diesel fumes + experience. Getting old has one advantage - knowing what I shouldn't attempt and that is one of them.

    The schrader valve is interesting. If I hollow the core and use a plain drill bit slightly smaller than the threaded end of the valve, I may get enough bite in the thin plastic to make it work. Again, I think this line mainly equalizes air pressure and rarely carries fuel, so this may work. Hopefully a metal fitting will co-exist with plastic and not cause problems like different expansion rates.

  3. #13
    Veteran Member
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    North Central Arkansas
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    John Deere 4520,

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Tibbits View Post
    Hmmm. All good info - thanks to all. Seems the only good way to fuse the plastic involves heat + diesel fumes + experience. Getting old has one advantage - knowing what I shouldn't attempt and that is one of them.

    The schrader valve is interesting. If I hollow the core and use a plain drill bit slightly smaller than the threaded end of the valve, I may get enough bite in the thin plastic to make it work. Again, I think this line mainly equalizes air pressure and rarely carries fuel, so this may work. Hopefully a metal fitting will co-exist with plastic and not cause problems like different expansion rates.
    Consider GOOP brand Plumbers weld glues anything to anything and makes seals on pipes hot ot cold.
    I keep a tube in shop for plastic seal of leaks. just clean area and apply
    ken

  4. #14
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Tibbits View Post
    Hmmm. All good info - thanks to all. Seems the only good way to fuse the plastic involves heat + diesel fumes + experience. Getting old has one advantage - knowing what I shouldn't attempt and that is one of them.

    The schrader valve is interesting. If I hollow the core and use a plain drill bit slightly smaller than the threaded end of the valve, I may get enough bite in the thin plastic to make it work. Again, I think this line mainly equalizes air pressure and rarely carries fuel, so this may work. Hopefully a metal fitting will co-exist with plastic and not cause problems like different expansion rates.
    those tire valves should have a expansion plug base and a groove.. that's where they seal to a rim.. I would think it would work great in your application.. drill the hole so the valve can be forced thru but tightly ( use grease ).. and it should seat.. then just remove the valve core.. then use fuel line to couple her up.

    i've put tire valves on non vented gas cans and then removed the valve and screwed the cap back on.. remove cap when pouring.. etc.



    soundguy

  5. #15
    Bronze Member Tibbits's Avatar
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    L3430 GST, BX1500

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    OK, tire valve is the plan. I'll stop by and see my tire guy on the way home today. I assume the best type has a push in bulb at the base. Also, seems best to remove the valve before I insert/seat the valve housing?

  6. #16
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    doesn't reall matter when you remove the core.. it's done externally with a core tool.. whatever you have room for.

    all the valve stems I see have a lip at the base to retain them inside the rim, and the base of the tube is an interference fit with the stem hole, and some even have a raised rib there to help.. should be a good fit.. may have to seat the valve thru the opening in the tank and push it outwards till it clicks into the hole you opened up for it.. but shouldn't be doo hard. again.. i've done these with the red plastic abs style gas cans..

    soundguy

  7. #17
    Silver Member
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    La.
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    Kubota L 3400DT

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    The valve stem is a great idea and would be the easiest and permanent repair.
    You could also use a threaded brass valve stem that uses rubber gaskets and nuts, if you have the room.
    Drill the hole and make sure everything fits right.
    Thread a wire through the hole and out of the fuel neck,
    slide the fitting on the wire and pull it through the hole.

  8. #18
    Veteran Member David_Kb7uns's Avatar
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    Willamette Valley Oregon
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    Kubota X 4

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    They make a rubber fuel line "grommet" or "bushing" that fits into a drilled hole in a polly tank and then the metal angled fuel line nipple is pushed in and locks it to the tank.

    Amazon.com: Oregon 07-392 Fuel Tank Bushing that Fits a 33/64-inch Diameter Fuel Tank: Patio, Lawn & Garden

    My RTV 1100 uses similar connections for the return and fuel filter vent/purge lines.

    David Kb7uns
    Last edited by David_Kb7uns; 07-14-2011 at 02:15 AM.
    Grand L3130GST LA723 Loader, ATI grapple, ATI grapple bucket, WR Long front remote, Kubota rear remotes, Bradco 408 Backhoe with thumb, 60"KK brush hog, 60" RM Finish Mower, Speeco Post Auger, 72" KK rear blade, 60" box blade
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  9. #19
    Bronze Member Tibbits's Avatar
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    L3430 GST, BX1500

    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    Thanks David Kb7uns. I think that would fit better than the tire valves I've been able to find so far. Last night, I ended up trying the Plumbers Goop to re-attach the broken part of the fitting to the tank. I ran a wire through the opening to make sure the Goop didn't close any of the opening as it set, and so far it appears to be a good seal with decent strength.

    I will avoid filling the tank too close to full to minimize the slosh reaching the repaired nipple. Usually, the only time I completely fill the tank is winter storage to keep tank condensation down (not sure if that even applies to a plastic tank).

    If the adhesive does not work, you guys have provided plenty of 'Plan B' options that don't involve a lot of time or money. Thanks!

  10. #20
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel line connector problem

    good luck.

    soundguy

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