Heavy Roller

   / Heavy Roller #11  
I picked up a 6' 'sod roller' from tsc for next to nothing.. less than 100 bucks late last year.. and it will hold about 100 gallons of water.. has bearings, etc.... could add eco-safe rv antifreeze to it as well..

Sure beats filling oil drums with concrete, and fixed or sleaved axles to worry about all the time...

Keep in mind that all gravel will do is consolidate.. not compact.

Soundguy
 
   / Heavy Roller
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I'm not totally happy with a boxblade either. I don't like the idea of not being able to angle the blade to direct the excess as needed. Seems like a bit more work and much better aim required to use the box. I really need rippers though to remix the fines and course aggregate to a depth of about 3-4".

I have looked at Land-Pride's ripper/ scarifier attachement on a rear blade, but it doesn't seem to work independently. I need to be able to pull the rippers and use the blade. I'd use the top link with a box blade to do that ??

Maybe the roller isn't the best idea.
 
   / Heavy Roller #13  
Anyone have experience with using a drag harrow ( chain harrow ) with a gravel drive?

Soundguy
 
   / Heavy Roller #14  
Attached is a shot of the gift a previous owner left behind.
Basically two 55 gal drums welded togheter and then filled with concrete.
Major league heavy. Works well for packing gravel.

Even has a couple of grease fittings, not that I get around to greasing it very often. It was a rust mess the day I got it. Probably been out in the pasture for many years.

The only design change I would make is a double plate at the draw bar connection. One plate above the drawbar with a hole and a second that goes under the drawbar and also has a hole.This one requires a bolt and nut to keep it connected up. Negative force on the tongue, like when you go over a bump, will break the small holding pin on a normal hitch pin.

Fred
 

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   / Heavy Roller #15  
Yikes!.. I'll bet that is a heavy monster to pull around..... Guess you don't want that on your riding lawn mower..! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Heavy Roller #16  
It wasn't a good experience. Caused a lot of loose "marbles" on top, and didn't get a good mix with the fines to make a good, compacted driveway surface. Similar to using a york rake.
 
   / Heavy Roller #17  
sounguy,

Yes. I dont know the exact weight but would not want to lose control if it on a hill.
Either the 3/4 ton truck or a heavy tractor are the best options.
I usually use the 2" reciever on the truck. Just take the ball off and use a grade eight bolt and two nuts as a hitch pin.

Fred
 
   / Heavy Roller #18  
I am in the process of building a 36" x 72" concrete filled roller now. Just filled it with concrete today. It has a 2" solid steel axle with self aligning ball bearings.

I am hoping to use it to do some asphalt driveway patching. If I need more weight, might set extra 55 gal drums of concrete on top.

Not sure how any of this will work, but will try anyway.

Also, does anyone know how long it will take the concrete in this 36" enclosed drum to cure enough, before I start trying to move it around?
 
   / Heavy Roller #19  
Don't know what kind of mix you are using... there are many kinds.. high early strength.. hydraulic, etc. Most portlands set up fairly quick.. and continue hardening over 50 years...
if you give it overnight it should be pretty safe unless you are running it down stairs or something...

Soundguy
 
   / Heavy Roller #20  
Initial cure is 24 hours, second stage cure is around 96 hours, final cure is 30 days +/- for normal household concrete.
If you're planning to roll asphalt, you'll need a water source to keep the drum wetted to prevent sticking.
 
 
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