How to use a box blade?

[n92687]

I am quite frustrated. I cannot seem to get the handle of using the box blade. I currently have the tines all they way down, I am still pulling up some loose roots etc. I put the blade down until the sides are level on the ground and then go. Since the ground is bumpy, it seems like the blade digs in more of course going over a mound and then releases more when you come down the backside of the mound. I just cannot seem to smooth it out.
At thsi point I have never used the box blade without the tines extending below the blade, is that what I am doing wrong? Whenever I want to smooth should I raise the tines or remove them?
Can any one tell me what I should me doing in the order I should be doing them? I guess the blade is a floating blade because the aft blade has a hinge along the back end.
Thanks
J

[Bartcephus]

There are some good videos from "Everything Attachments" and others on you-tube about using the box blade. The adjustment of the top-link is really key on what particular task you are performing. Lenghthen the top link for smoothing, shorten the top-link for getting the scarifiers to dig/break up the soil. Another thing I have found is waiting until soil conditions are "just right." Too much mositure and you fill up your box with mud and too dry just turns everything to dust and won't pack well.

Practice makes perfect. Try various lengths of the top-link and see how the box blade reacts. The hinged back blade helps smooth out the soil but also will allow you to push dirt around if you go in reverse with the implement lowered. For final smoothing, you will want to raise the scarifiers, lengthen the top link and set the 3 point to a height that will leave some fill dirt in the box shaving the high spots and leaving it in the low spots.

Best of luck and enjoy the seat time.

[BethesdaEC]

It helps to have position control.

[Cacinok]

It's a lot about practice. When I got my first tractor and box blade, I had similar problems, seemed like I was making it worse instead of better. If I have pot holes or ruts to fill, what I do is drop the rippers all the way, shorten the top link and loosen the whole driveway up - don't want to dig any holes, but not too concerned about getting it all level. Then I raise the rippers up out of the way and lengthen the top link so that the box blade is more or less level and concentrate on leveling out the driveway. Try to remember where the larger bumps are and adjust your box blade accordingly. It's a PITA until you start to get the hang of it. Initially, you need to be adjusting your box blade constantly, especially if you have a bumpy driveway.

If you have a float control, then you can set that and the box blade will just follow the contour of the ground. I never think to do this for some reason.

[johnrex62]

Since the ground is bumpy, it seems like the blade digs in more of course going over a mound and then releases more when you come down the backside of the mound.

Maybe I am misunderstanding, but isn't that what you want? Grab more dirt from mounds and drop it in the valleys? May take a few runs, but eventually that will level things out, as the mounds are reduced and the valleys fill in, right?

[bcp]

Since the ground is bumpy, it seems like the blade digs in more of course going over a mound and then releases more when you come down the backside of the mound.

Maybe I am misunderstanding, but isn't that what you want? Grab more dirt from mounds and drop it in the valleys? May take a few runs, but eventually that will level things out, as the mounds are reduced and the valleys fill in, right?

(added to clarify)

Since the ground is bumpy, it seems like the blade digs in (before the mound) more of course (when the tractor is) going over (up) a mound and then releases more (on the mound) when you (the tractor) come down the backside of the mound.

[TripleR]

If you can, go out somewhere where making a mess won't matter and practice. As mentioned by Bartcephus and Cacinok, there are ways of operating a bb, but it still requires time.

The biggest improvement for me was when I got a hydraulic top link which allows me to adjust the angle of attack on the move.

My brother does an exceptional job without one though, it just takes time.

What tractor are you using?

[schmism]

you need to learn what the tilt (top link adjustment) means for the blade.

the more you tilt the box back the less aggressive cut it will have pulling it forward. In an extreme (rear) all you would do is move the "sand" around on the top of the ground unable to scratch up anything more. (pushing the blade backwards in this state however will result in it cutting very aggressively)

tilted all the way forward and expect it to dig extreamly aggressively to the point that your likely to quickly bring your tractor to a stop (in just a few inches) Great for digging material quickly, but hard to control.

Once you have loosened up the top of the dirt you may find it easyer to push backward to smooth things out as your rear tires are then driveing on a nice lvl surface (just created by the box) imparting less movement to the blade. (the blade is more free to cut high spots and fill low spots) It is not recommended you push un-cut dirt with the box blade as it can easly result in bent 3pt arms or worse. (there are some "fun" pics floating around the forums as examples)

[n92687]

I am using a light duty Massy. The bb is parallel to the ground when down.
I guess it just takes time. I just seem to take too much from one area and then put too much in others. I end up moving mounds around instead of blending them. If I take teh scarifers up, then maybe it will smooth things out.

Thanks for the comments
J

[Gordon Gould]

If the area you are trying to level is such that the tractor goes up and down like a roller coaster as you travel along you have two basic choices for leveling. Neither of them is very fast. First way is to take one mound at a time. Cut the top off and spread it into the low spots around that mound. Stay right there in the are of the one mound til it is what you want. Keep doing this mound by mound until the roller coaster effect is gone. Or the second way is to travel along slowly with your hand on the bb height control. Try to keep the bb on an imaginary level line with your height control as the tractor rises and dips. Don't let it dig where you don't want it to dig and don't let it dump where you don't want it to dump. You will be constantly moving the height control. Start high, take small bites so you are only cutting the tops of the mounds at the first pass along your imaginary line. Each pass move your bb height and imaginary line a little lower. keep repeating until you are flat. Takes time, patience, and practice. I like the first method when just learning because you are working a small area and you learn how to control and use your blade. You don't get over whelmed by the whole job. Probably the best way is a combination of the two methods. After some experience you will be able to tell which way is best attack a lumpy area.
Don't get frustrated you will learn as you go.