PULLING

   / PULLING #11  
I have a 12,000 lb. Warn winch on my box blade.

I learned this from another person's mistake: Do not use a winch cable for a tractor pull. Use the winch to pull, but then, only with the winch. The gears are built to handle the motor's strength, not the tractor's. Once the load is where the tractor will be pulling it, then drop it from the winch cable and attach it to the tractor. I saw a guy with a JD450C with a hydraulic winch pull a load with the winch cable using the tractor's drive. It ripped the gears out of the winch in a split second. It was an expensive lesson.

I pull lots of logs with the box blade. It has a receiver hitch right through the center of the blade. I hook to the trailer ball, as it is the lowest point on the box blade that I can hook a chain. Once the load is where I can get close to it, I reconnect short and lift the 3PH to raise the front of the log for easier towing. This has worked very well for me. I don't worry about a back flip with this method because the box blade would act as a wheelie bar.

When I'm winching, I often have to chain the front of the tractor to a tree to keep it put. I have been amazed how hard that winch can pull, especially when I hang a block and double up the cable. Still, the tractor in low range could overstress the gears in the winch. One, or the other, tractor or winch, but not both.
 
   / PULLING #12  
I have two methods, depending on the nature of the skid job.

If I am using the winch to pulls trees from where I felled them in the woods, I drop the choker chains in the skidding slots of the skidder blade, raise the TPH/winch body off the ground and off we go. The skidder blade won't let a butt end contact an obstacle without hitting it first. see first picture.

The second method I use when I am skidding from a pile of logs I have already dozed into a single place. The skidding bar is easier to work with for quick hook ups and releases. it also takes a lot less time to install on the tractor. I can see the pull easier, too as the winch is not obstructing my view.

Either way, be careful and remember the quickest way to move a heavy load is SLOOOOOOWLY.
 

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   / PULLING #13  
There have been millions of logs pulled with a skidding bar on the 3ph lift arms like DeadHorse made. If you don't want to make your own go to TSC and buy a cross draw bar, one or two tractor hooks, and some chokers.

I would rather pull with the butt of the log lifted up off the ground a little than have it dragging. But either way go slow and easy.
 

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   / PULLING #14  
Gordon, I use logging chokers with that bar and cinch the butts up tight with the bar resting on the butts. Then I actuate the lift and get the butts off the ground for my pull. Also, there are 4 fixed hooks so each choker gets its own location and the logs don't bunch up on each other.

I do not recommend pulling logs with the butts in the dirt. You can get a nasty surprise VERY quickly that way.

My skidding bar is attached to the lower links in the back on each side such that it will not rotate and the chain hooks remain "paws up" during the lift and pull. This was a key design feature. In the picture I posted the links are not installed so I need to post a new picture to explain,

The chain hooks on each end have the holes where the chain lynch pin is inserted. The bottom side one is welded to the bar, but the one on the top is available and with some small clevis hardware they are linked to the inside of the lower links.
 
   / PULLING #15  
DeadHorse, I like your idea of making the bar so it doesn't rotate. Not that I have ever had a problem but it just seems as if it would be easier to work with. Plus by using welded on hooks you gain a few inches of height if you need it. Well thought out.
 
   / PULLING #16  
Safest way is to pull from below the axle line from the draw bar. Had a guy get killed just 1/3 of a mile from my house on a Ford 961 pulling from the 3 point trying to get a piece of culvert out of the ground. When he did not come home for dinner his wife went looking for him and found him out in his field with the tractor over on him.:(

Chris
 
   / PULLING
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Yes, your pics could be very helpful. I'm intrigued by your setup.

My skidding bar is attached to the lower links in the back on each side such that it will not rotate and the chain hooks remain "paws up" during the lift and pull. This was a key design feature. In the picture I posted the links are not installed so I need to post a new picture to explain,

The chain hooks on each end have the holes where the chain lynch pin is inserted. The bottom side one is welded to the bar, but the one on the top is available and with some small clevis hardware they are linked to the inside of the lower links.
 
   / PULLING
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I take the safety point about the drawbar (tongue). Also, pulling heavy weights, like lifting, would require some weight in the loader bucket, no?

Safest way is to pull from below the axle line from the draw bar. Had a guy get killed just 1/3 of a mile from my house on a Ford 961 pulling from the 3 point trying to get a piece of culvert out of the ground.
Chris
 
   / PULLING #19  
Do you guys pull logs from the butt end or the tip end? Just wondering, I'm interested in getting a Farmi winch, downloaded the manual for it and it showed pulling logs from the narrow tip end, after limbing the log of course.
 
 
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