frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
as u can see there are numerous ways to do it with out drilling, although i don;t think drilling a few small holes would hurt. did u check how the dealer would do it if u had him install the light?
Attaching Work Lights?
- Thread starter Thomasre
- Start date
Joeinindy
Silver Member
On my L3430 I bought two 55W fog lights from Wal-Mart for apx $25.00 and mounted them on the rops using small self taping screws ( about 1/8"x 1"). They are mounted just below the hinge on the rops and on the outside edge, so the rops will still fold down if needed.. I used black wire loom from the lights down to the holes in the fenders. There is a hot link under the right fender for power. Where the loom meets the fog lights I sealed the gap with clear kitchen and bath adhesive chalk. I used two black cable ties on each side to keep the loom tight against the sides of the rops. The lights are just high enough that they are not affected by the loader, and just wide enough that they shine past the sides of the bucket when it is raised. The lights come mounted on a base that swivels, so I can point them different directions if I need side lighting. The switch is mounted on the plate above the tool box behind the seat. The lights came with a switch that is back lit, I can either reach back and switch them on or turn them on just by raising the tool box lid. On the back of the tractor I mounted a JD rectangle light that has a built in toggle switch in the same hole that the slow moving sign is( that orange triangle)and remounted the sign back into the same hole. The JD light came with a bracket that fits just right in this spot, the light was about $20.00. Hope this gives you some ideas for your L3430.
Joeinindy
Silver Member
Opps! Should have said my L3410, Don't know if the sign and hot link are the same on the newer model.
tc35dforme
Platinum Member
Ahh that lovely liability thing. Well I guess I could argue that since New Holland didn't take away my drill when I bought the tractor they were negligent in preventing me from drilling the ROPS /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif!!! Same logic they gun haters are using against the manufacturers nationwide.
I'm comfortable with my actions.
By the way...New Holland's owner's manual also states: " If a front end loader is used, always use a FOPS ( Falling Object Protective Structure ) canopy to avoid injury from falling objects." They gave me a loader and no FOPS /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I'm comfortable with my actions.
By the way...New Holland's owner's manual also states: " If a front end loader is used, always use a FOPS ( Falling Object Protective Structure ) canopy to avoid injury from falling objects." They gave me a loader and no FOPS /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
jlong
Bronze Member
Hi,
I have a post under the "Customization" catagory under the post titled "Rear Lighting". There are some pics there that will give you a simple design using all-thread, without drilling the ROPS. I've re-wired and cleaned up the installation since the pics, but the old pics will give you the basic idea. Good Luck!
I have a post under the "Customization" catagory under the post titled "Rear Lighting". There are some pics there that will give you a simple design using all-thread, without drilling the ROPS. I've re-wired and cleaned up the installation since the pics, but the old pics will give you the basic idea. Good Luck!
Soundguy
Old Timer
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Don't drill or weld your rops.
I've mounted lights and other things many ways... real tempo stuff was with a magnetic base... have also done quick and dirty attatchments as well as decent looking ones with hose clamps. Heavier stuff with U bolts, like the factory does for the canopies. Have also used those spring loaded 'hand clamps' i call them.. they are used to clamp tow flats together to dry, or hold something, etc.. they are nice and strong.. I'm holding up a radion in the barn with one right now.. clamp is holding on a 2x6, and the open arms are holding the bracket to a little boom box for tunes while i work on the tractors..
For farly permanent but easy to remove attatchments, why not make a small lshaped bracket, attatch it to the rops via ubolt, or hose clamp, then make the light mount to it with a wingnut or similar.. hav ethe power on a quick release insulated plug / jack.. run the wires in wireloom or 'spagetti' tubbing, lashed to the uprights and routed to power... use zip ties to hold the wire loom in place.
Good luck.
Soundguy
I've mounted lights and other things many ways... real tempo stuff was with a magnetic base... have also done quick and dirty attatchments as well as decent looking ones with hose clamps. Heavier stuff with U bolts, like the factory does for the canopies. Have also used those spring loaded 'hand clamps' i call them.. they are used to clamp tow flats together to dry, or hold something, etc.. they are nice and strong.. I'm holding up a radion in the barn with one right now.. clamp is holding on a 2x6, and the open arms are holding the bracket to a little boom box for tunes while i work on the tractors..
For farly permanent but easy to remove attatchments, why not make a small lshaped bracket, attatch it to the rops via ubolt, or hose clamp, then make the light mount to it with a wingnut or similar.. hav ethe power on a quick release insulated plug / jack.. run the wires in wireloom or 'spagetti' tubbing, lashed to the uprights and routed to power... use zip ties to hold the wire loom in place.
Good luck.
Soundguy
Joeinindy, My dealer suggested that lights were commonly mounted by drilling ROPS - - I'll go back to dealer and ask again. I like my dealer and I'm sure mechanically the folks are good, but since the paint is still new, I want the lights mounted as cleanly and functional as possible. I'm not convinced that the service guys will be as careful as I will be when attaching the lights, protecting the finish etc. Any chance of see pic(s) of your lights mounting?
Soundguy, Thanks. Your description with U-bolts should be functional, and if I paint the u-bolts ROPS grey, I suppose everything would look O.K. If, I'm not drilling, that's certainly the quick attach method functional and strudy. In the end, I'm looking for functional with "best look", however that is defined. Got any pics? I went to web and looked at magnetic ground blocks at Harbor Freight. Any idea if magnetic ground blocks will be strong, stable for mounting lights?
Ctyler, thanks - looked at Magnetic ground blocks. Couple of questions. First I don't weld so.. Will gound block be strong, strudy? Second, will I need to scratch / remove paint at contact point to get good ground to ROPS, or did you use a separate ground wire? Any problem from this mounting? Any Pics?