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  1. #21
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    1,055
    Location
    WVa
    Tractor
    Kubota L3710, Ford 5600, Case MB4/94, Kubota B6200

    Default Re: Attaching Work Lights?

    What I described is a bit more elaborate than most setups. My problem is I frequently operate in the woods and around brush so if I'm ducking branches and shoving stuff away from the ROPS. Any lights not securely mounted and protected will be history.

    All I'm doing somewhat differently is mounting another piece of steel tube directly behind the top of the ROPS which extends from side to side. The plate on top keeps the tube in place and aligned directly behind the top of the ROPS while the band clamps tie the tube to the ROPS. You can use as long a tube section as you want. For me that means using a length long enough so the lights will hang above the rear tires.

    That will provide plenty of unobstructed light for using the FEL at night. I'll probably go with two dual bulb Hella work lights which aren't cheap but put out a tremendous amount of light. Since I have a couple of places I run at night near drop offs, I want plenty of light out to the side. I'm not interested in the work lights that are spotlights. I want a spread beam that goes way out to the sides.

    I don't think drilling a ROPS will immediately weaken the structure. Still it's a practice I wouldn't consider. The real potential is from providing a weak point for corrosion in the future. Even if you take the precaution of painting, I've seen attachments to bodywork that start to rust after a period of time. Even if you don't see any rust on the surface, you can't tell what's going on inside. I'd bet money the ROPS is not painted on the inside.

    What happens depends on your local climate, how you store the tractor, etc. But the point remains, you can't tell what's happening inside the ROPS. A year later or even several years later the ROPS may be fine. Ten or twenty years from now when the ROPS gets used for the first time, the unlucky operator may be crushed when the ROPS fails from corrosion at or below the points where the original holes were drilled.

  2. #22
    Silver Member ELMO67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    217
    Location
    CT.
    Tractor
    KUBOTA L3010

    Default Re: Attaching Work Lights?

    Well, one approach I have not heard mentioned is to attach an automotive fog/ driving light where the safety triangle is normally bolted. I don't take my L3010 out on public roads, so I probably won't ever need the triangle- if I do, maybe I can tape it on temporarily. This location really worked out great this winter when using the rear blade to plow snow- it lights up everything I need to see, and it is out of harms way. Sometimes a simple approach is the one that is overlooked the most often. The foglight I used is a large rectangular unit from a Subaru- I guess that kind of keeps it in the "family" [img]/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img], it is held on with a large carriage bolt, lock nut and a piece of band iron bolted to the light.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    51
    Location
    Henderson, Ky
    Tractor
    JD 318 and NH TC33D SS

    Default Re: Attaching Work Lights?

    I used good old hose clamps, as mentioned by Soundguy, to mount my lights.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #24
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    60
    Location
    North Carolina
    Tractor
    Kubota L3430 + BX2230

    Default Re: Attaching Work Lights?

    Easy - functional - can't complain with that. Where did you place switches and make connection?

  5. #25
    Platinum Member prosperity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Posts
    690
    Location
    North Central Pennsylvania
    Tractor
    JD 2520

    Default Re: Attaching Work Lights?

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( Don't drill or weld your rops.)</font>

    Very true in the commercial world.
    I work for a state transportation department. While I know that a lot of our regulations are overkill, its all a safety thing. Any drilling or welding at all on a ROPS compromises its structural effectiveness. The ROPS are actually made at a minimum strength to protect without adding weight to the vehicle. If they were made to drill or weld, they would be 10 times the weight they are.

    I've seen 25,000 lb wheel loaders after they've been rolled over several times. Not a pretty sight to see a beautiful machine like that destroyed. But......the operator seat area is always intact. I wish I'd had taken pictures so you all could see. Once you see something like this, you will always wear your seat belt and you would never even think about drilling or welding on your ROPS.

    Sorry for the rant - I kind of like staying alive a few more years. Especially when there are so many other ways to mount a couple simple 1lb lights.

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Posts
    150
    Location
    Jamestown, Indiana
    Tractor
    Kubota L3410HST 2000

    Default Re: Attaching Work Lights?

    Sorry, but I don't have any pics I can Post. My dealer said it was no problem with drilling small holes in the rops, concerning warranty or strength. The nice part about the way the lights turned out is they look like a factory installation.

  7. #27

    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    51
    Location
    Henderson, Ky
    Tractor
    JD 318 and NH TC33D SS

    Default Re: Attaching Work Lights?

    I used the two prong accessory plug back by rops for power. Mounted switches on the bracket that supports the amber flashing light (tape on light is a result of tangling with a grape vine).
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: Attaching Work Lights?

    Thomas, I posted the promised pics of my light installation on the BX in the kubota Owning/Operating Forum earlier today.

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