bought a kioti dk45, new to tractors, Post hole auger question.

[hogsndogs]

Got this tractor, then assembled the the pto post hole auger to test it. When I tried digging through the hard pan in my barn, i couldn't break through. So I took it out to the softer parts of the pasture and it wasn't as fast or impressive as i thought it would be. I tried pushing on the depth, but i ended up putting enough pressure to stop the pto? is that normal? I bought the tractor used, 600 hrs on it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Something is wrong, there is no way that you should be able to push on the auger and be able to stop it. By the way, that practice is VERY dangerous and should not be done.:thumbdown: Post over in the Kioti forum, you will get more help over there.

By the way, :welcome:

 

[kebo]

When I read the OP, I didn't get the impression he was actually pushing on the post hole digger itself. I took it as he was pushing how deep he could make it dig, and he eventually got it deep enough to stall out the PTO, but he didn't say if that actually stalled out the engine.

Is the bit on the auger a new, sharp bit? Or a used dull one?? That can make a difference. Sometimes when the crust is really hard packed, you might have to break through the first few inches with a pick axe, then drop the auger in and see if it will dig down.

Not sure why you are concerned about it not being as fast as you thought it would/should be. Boring holes with a PHD takes a little practice. I let mine dig down a foot or so, then pull it back out and let it throw the excess dirt off of the spiral flights, then go back in and dig a little deeper, then repeat by pulling the bit back out and letting it clear itself of the loose dirt. Works for me!

Take your time and learn to work with it. It's still a LOT faster and easier than digging a 3ft deep hole with the manual post hole diggers!

 

[Mark Page]

I have a Danuser with 12" and 24" augers. Between planting trees, digging footers and building fences I've probably dug 1,000 holes. On average it takes me 30 seconds to drill a hole once I'm lined up.
I have found that using a serated cutting bit works much better than the straight type, especially when starting holes. You didn't mention the brand, but check it out and see if you can't get a set.
Also when your bit edges barely come close to the flighting it's time for a new set. If you don't you'll wear the flighting into a cone shape and the flighting won't clear the hole of dirt. I've also found that it dosen't pay to run them fast, 1200 rpm seems to work for me.
Is your auger hanging vertical when you try to start a hole?
What brand do you have, some of the less expensive models are too lite to apply sufficient down force.
Don't try to manually push it down, these thing can do serious damage. Call the guy you bought it from and ask him about it.
Kebo's advice on only drilling a foot at a time is good. If you do break through they can screw themselves into the ground in a heartbeat. I learned this the hard way by having to use a 24 inch pipe wrench to unscrew mine from the ground.

 

[hogsndogs]

Thanks everyone

 

[ustmd]

Another point to consider is that there are different bits for different soils and it does make a huge difference.

I am on heavy clay and had a guy come out to dig 50 9 inch post holes with his skidsteer. New auger attachment and bit--except it was a rock bit. It was taking him 20 minutes per hole.

He bought a new clay bit, 90 seconds (max) per hole.