Torque wrench

[Haz]

Just got my L3430 Kubota last weekend. I have most of the tools I need already for maintenance but I don't have a torque wrench. Is it something that I need? Also what are some good brands to buy? Thanks

Haz

 

[RoyJackson]

No need to spend a lot of money. A Craftsman from Sears will do you fine. I suggest a 3/4" drive micrometer setting ("click") type of wrench. ½" drives would be OK, but tightening the blades on a mower deck might require a 3/4".
Should go to at least 150 ft-lbs.

 

[sandyc]

Agree on the micrometer. I have the old fashioned bar type torgue wrench and it is a bear. Makes me think that I will take it back as the indicator rod is bent and I have to add or subract a bit to get the right value....I'll trade up to the micrometer....I like the idea of being able to concentrate on work and just listen for the click!

 

[r0GuE]

I just got the 1/2 inch drive bar type wrench. I use my wife to spot for me as I crush in to it. A click type would be better I guess, but I wanted the tool length for leverage. It ain't easy to push 108 ft lbs! At least not when you're a sissy hand engineer like me. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have one of each. You get what you pay for. I had a $19 click type from Harb Freight that lasted 5 days,rebuilding a 72 Chevelle. I now have Craftsman.

 

[MDNick]

Haz,

You have gotten some good advice. The micrometer clicker types are certainly they way to go. I occasionally use a 3/4" drive job at work for up to 450 ft lbs. Also use a needle sweep with a multiplier to get about 1200 ft lbs. That's a bear.

One point about the clicker style that hasn't been mentioned is proper care. The adjustment mechanism uses a spring. If you store it loaded up, eventually the spring will weaken and be out of calibration. It will take a long time (many months, maybe even a few years) to do the damage, but you'll likely have the wrench for a really long time. Simple maintenance to back off the load after each use. We try to do that at work, but then our wrenches go out for calibration annually.

Nick

 

[mikim]

I used to do those cals in the USAF -- the 2 primary reasons a wrench would be out of cal -- getting dropped - and being left at a setting other than the lowest setting on the wrench... where it should always be stored at.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Mike makes a very important point. Always unload the adjustment knob on the clickers after use if you want them to be accurate and treat them like a fairly delicate measuring tool. Always use slow even pulls then using them, don't do fast little jerking pulls, they won't be accurate if you do.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Avoid taking the wrench apart. Also, do not lubricate it. Both will affect the final readings. Purchase an injected molded storage case to protect the torque wrench. A calibration service told me that a newer torque wrench is more likely to be out of calibration due to the breaking in of new parts. After initial break-in, a quality torque wrench will hold it's calibration for approximately 10,000 cycles. I own a 3/8" Sears DigiTorque and a 1/2" Proto. These guys have calibrated both wrenches and I was pleased with their work and price. Team Torque

 

[chrisjbell]

<font color="blue"> Purchase an injected molded storage case to protect the torque wrench. </font>

I picked up a pretty nice clicker version from a Napa store a few years back that came with the molded case. I paid $34.95, according to the price tag that I never took off /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Seems to work well - I've "tested" it against a neighbor's "guage" wrench and they were pretty darn close to each other. But I am careful to unwind it before storage.

Yeah, before y'all start - I probably could have gotten a Craftsman for less. But I was already at the store /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif.