Which tractor and hp range?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JMER

So I'm thinking as I type... I assume weight and hp would be most important to me. I can save a bunch by not getting a BH and just getting the FEL, post hole digger and tiller.

---

A class 1 CUT (23-27hp) are sized for your tasks

a slightly larger class 2 CUT (30ish hp) would give you more weight and more power to do more things with your tractor.

my TC33 (now the boomer 30) is a class 2.

while slightly smaller than a class 1 CUT, a SCUT will be less expensive but im not convinced they are worth the money. I think they are overpriced lawnmowers and really if your going to pay "that" much you might as well step up to a class 1 (or used class2)

It is not very often you hear someone say "I wish I bought a smaller ______." Whether that be garage, tractor, etc. I am partial to orange myself. But get the one that looks best to you. As for attachments an FEL, tiller, post hole digger, and box blade are all good ones. From what I have read a backhoe can wreck the frame on a tractor the size you are looking for. As much as I would like one of those I cant cost justify it to myself when I know that for a fraction of the cost I can rent a dedicated mini x. That is for me though, not you. Also how easy to remove for other three point work? With your budget I highly recommend looking at high quality attachments ie bush hog brand. Others too. Just one example. The quality of that caliber does not compare to howse, king kutter, county line... plus you can match tractor color if desired. Just one opinion here after seeing how myself and my brother always pay more in the end for the cheapest. Between fixing then replacing cheapest always costs me more. Best of luck.

I recently bought a used 18 HP manual 4WD trans JD670. It is more than enough power to tear things up even a few things I did not intend to. I'd worry more about the construction and integrity of the machine than the specific HP. If you have the time and patients you'll be able to do most of what you intend but I'd suggest having a good plan and rough in the general development with some heavy duty equipment when you have the pad cut in.. You'll have more fun finishing the landscaping unless you have a lot of time to move dirt. You'll want a box blade to level and drag dirt. If you have tough soil - I'm dealing with rock hard Rex clay - check out a tooth-bar for the FEL. Also check out a landscaping rake. You may want to get the tractor and play with it on the property before you finalize your building plans layout. It may surprise you the area you will need to turn and maneuver the tractor with attachments without Hitting buildings and trees. I kind of lucked out my place was part of a larger farm at some point.
Good luck and post some picture.
RoN

You can get a Kubota B2620 4WD with FEL and backhoe almost within your budget but not with a mid mount mower. Backhoe is over $6 grand alone, Mid mount mower is $3500. Tractor with mid-pto is about $15k. I think you can get the 2920 for about the same money. Any of the B2320/2620/2920 would be a good tractor for you. Rather than spend the $6,800 for a quickattach backhoe, you would probably be much cheaper to have your contractor level the area. I thought about using my 50HP tractor with boxblade and FEL to level the area for my house and shop but found that for $1500 I could get a dozer to cut down the hill for an area of about 350 feet in length x 100 feet wide with at least a 5 foot cut on the high side. He cut the high side, moved the cut dirt toward the low side and tapered it off with a 4 foot slope at the bottom. Cost was $60 per hour. It would have taken me weeks with FEL and boxblade to do that and not have been nearly as level when finished as what I got. I had only one small area that I had to put in about 2" of dirt in a circle about 12' in diameter after my house was built where the water ponded a bit. It was draining before the house was built but I guess the house was in the way afterward. I had to haul in about 4 buckets of dirt to level it out. Well worth the money. This was done by another contractor outside my housing contractor and since I was building on the spoil area, I let it set for a couple years to settle before building on it. If you are going to immediately build on a backfilled area, you should make sure they use a sheepsfoot type compactor on the backfill and pack it in maximum of 8" lifts. Contrary to dozer owners statement, a 50,000 pound dozer compacts very little due to the large track area. A medium sized compact tractor will compact soil more, much more in PSI under the tire area

I forgot to mention that my daughter and husband down in Texas just bought a 4 WD Kubota 2920 with mid-mount 60" mower, FEL, 5 foot tiller, a tool bar and some plows (gardening plows) for a bit over $20K. They have a 2.2 acre lot and my daughter loves driving the little tractor. I used it last time I visited and mowed a bit with it, then used the FEL to move some old pallets, boards and stuff out of the yard and into the wooded area, then flipped the compost pile and consolidated two piles into one. A very capable little tractor. It made me want a small one so bad that I went and bought a B26 TLB for use on my forever producing rock farm in Ark.

Just a thought , but I have a small farm on under 10 acres, and we use a 15HP 4x4 Bolens/Iseki Tractor. The tractor has more than enough power to brush hog, use a plow, and drag large logs from the woods. You would be very surprised at how much power a small diesel tractor has because of the torque. I can only travel about 15mph, but I would not want to mow that fast on a good day. Below are some videos of the same tractor as mine, and what they are capable of with only a 15hp engine. If you want the security of a new tractor with a warranty, then that may be the best for you, but you don't have to have the big payments either. A lot of people have not driven, or used a small HP tractor, and do not realize what they are capable of with the correct gearing. There are a lot of arguments why you need a larger tractor, but mine is the standard in a lot of Europe on small farms, and they do very well. I bought my tractor for under $2000. In the US, we tend to think that bigger is better, but we also have the debt that goes along with that. I just wanted to show you that you can go with a smaller tractor, and do what you need, but in the end, you have to go with what makes you happy.

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1335154668
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_3586.jpg

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1iGpZ-d_Zc]Reno aan het maaien met de Iseki TX 1500 - YouTube[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjiEaxlEneM]iseki tx 1300 se vende - YouTube[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOBxKevFohk&feature=related]1510D Yanmar - YouTube[/ame]