Ballast almost flipped the tractor, really need some help!

[RaydaKub]

Those of us with ROPS and seat belts have to keep this in mind, what will go flying around, or come loose, if we tumble? I had thought of using a large collection of Universal Gym weights I have, the flat kind that are 15 pounds of perfect iron that stack marvelously. And after reading this, I will make sure I build some kind of very strong retaining strap or top on it for sure. I think those weights would hurt more than wet sand, and I don't think either of us want to try.

That's exactly what I have. 25 ten lb plates about 4 inches by 9 inches by 5/8 thick. I bolted 24 of them to a 2 foot drawbar I bought at TSC in 4 stacks of six balanced on the front and back of the drawbar. The drawbar sits verticle instead of the normal horizontal way. The 25th plate is bolted below the drawbar using the holes in the plates. Six 8 inch 5/8" bolts to hold it all together. 275 lbs and solid as a rock hanging on the 3ph.

 

[chad22]

I didn't get hurt but **** was I shaken up. The FEL is large at 6 foot and the path I cut was only 5 so it didn't fit lowered. I raised it and it just tipped forward.

I would have needed new undies if that happened to me. lol

Glad you didn't get hurt.

Chad

 

[eray1066]

Hey guys
First time posting here and I really need some help!
We have quite a steep block of land. Around 5 acres with the steepest part being 40 degrees or so.

I recently purchased a John Deere 4105 with a FEL to do some hobby farming / mowing. There were a few delivery delays for the FEL so at first I only had the tractor. She worked like a charm and I managed to mow all the lawn and get started ripping / tilling. FEL arrived and the whole dynamic changed.

It feels like the tractor actually has trouble going up the hill now? A lot more revs required and she seems unstable.

I'd never driven a tractor before but hydrostatic was simple enough. Did a good 30 hours before the FEL. I had no idea about counterweighting on the first day with the FEL and this happened ( photos )

I didn't get hurt but **** was I shaken up. The FEL is large at 6 foot and the path I cut was only 5 so it didn't fit lowered. I raised it and it just tipped forward.

I thought the ripper would be enough counterweight but it wasn't. The tyres arnt filled either as some have suggested.

I don't want to add so much counterweight the tractor has more trouble going up the slopes?
Its a skid steer loader so ive been dropping it when going on the slopes so ive been hesitant to fill the tyres.

What do you guys recommend??
How much weight should i put at the back?

We do not want too heavy a tractor on our vegetable farm for soil compaction reasons but have to balance that aspect vs safety. Our loader is very powerful and could easily do some scary or fatal stunts without the right counterweight. Three large wheel weights on the rear wheels (six total for over 600 lbs) allow for safe operation with minor loads in the bucket. However when using the forks to unload really heavy stuff like large bags of potting soil (1000+ lbs) we attach the 3 point hitch harrow which weighs 1242 lbs its center of mass is way back behind the rear axle. This allows a stable lift and is much easier on the front end of the tractor. Using a farm tractor to lift heavy loads or operate on uneven ground requires proper weight balance, undivided attention and an educated right hand that knows how to drop the load if anything goes wrong.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

We do not want too heavy a tractor on our vegetable farm for soil compaction reasons but have to balance that aspect vs safety. Our loader is very powerful and could easily do some scary or fatal stunts without the right counterweight. Three large wheel weights on the rear wheels (six total for over 600 lbs) allow for safe operation with minor loads in the bucket. However when using the forks to unload really heavy stuff like large bags of potting soil (1000+ lbs) we attach the 3 point hitch harrow which weighs 1242 lbs its center of mass is way back behind the rear axle. This allows a stable lift and is much easier on the front end of the tractor. Using a farm tractor to lift heavy loads or operate on uneven ground requires proper weight balance, undivided attention and an educated right hand that knows how to drop the load if anything goes wrong.

I know it is a pain in tight places but some like that or a bush hog is about as good as it gets. Something that can put some drag on the ground can really help stabilize should the tractor start free wheeling. I sometimes forget about free wheeling in Low Multi-Power on the MF 265. Going down a steep pond bank dropping the bush hog into the ground really helped keep it straight when I first used it when my FIL still was living.

 

[jim_wilson]

I think the recommendations for counterweight are all very light. Given you bucket was empty and that happened, it will do the same thing loaded with only 600-800 lbs counter weight. Loaded tires would be an excellent start but 3PH ballast in the form of a heavy box blade or something will actually help take weight off the front tires too. These pictures tell me you probably need both.

I would say the same thing. My old BX23 had a backhoe hanging off of it - that weighed in around 650 pounds. The few times I pulled the hoe off and did some loader work with just the box blade on the back (350~ pounds) - I could tell a definite difference.

I think you should look up what the recommended backhoe is for that tractor - see what it weighs in at - and start from there for a "good" weight to be hanging off the back of the tractor.

Load up the tires ALSO - it gets the weight down LOW. If you hang weight off the rear of the tractor - hang that as low as you can. The further upwards you pull the weight - the more unstable the tractor will get (as you discovered).

 

[daugen]

Interesting that Kubota specs the same 1000 pound ballast box for both L and M tractors.
One would hope that an operator of the largest Kubota able to pick up 4-5K in the bucket,
might look to find a weightier solution.

 

[k0ua]

Interesting that Kubota specs the same 1000 pound ballast box for both L and M tractors.
One would hope that an operator of the largest Kubota able to pick up 4-5K in the bucket,
might look to find a weightier solution.

I have wondered about that too, on the Kioti DK35se (my tractor) they spec 1100 lbs rear ballast. and same for the DK40se.. and the DK40se will lift about 1300 more lbs on the FEL.. DK40se is about 4.5 inches longer chassis and weighs maybe close to 200 lbs more, but golly. is that going to make the difference?

James K0UA

 

[Technoid]

Hey guys
First time posting here and I really need some help!
We have quite a steep block of land. Around 5 acres with the steepest part being 40 degrees or so.

I recently purchased a John Deere 4105 with a FEL to do some hobby farming / mowing. There were a few delivery delays for the FEL so at first I only had the tractor. She worked like a charm and I managed to mow all the lawn and get started ripping / tilling. FEL arrived and the whole dynamic changed.

It feels like the tractor actually has trouble going up the hill now? A lot more revs required and she seems unstable.

I'd never driven a tractor before but hydrostatic was simple enough. Did a good 30 hours before the FEL. I had no idea about counterweighting on the first day with the FEL and this happened ( photos )

I didn't get hurt but **** was I shaken up. The FEL is large at 6 foot and the path I cut was only 5 so it didn't fit lowered. I raised it and it just tipped forward.

I thought the ripper would be enough counterweight but it wasn't. The tyres arnt filled either as some have suggested.

I don't want to add so much counterweight the tractor has more trouble going up the slopes?
Its a skid steer loader so ive been dropping it when going on the slopes so ive been hesitant to fill the tyres.

What do you guys recommend??
How much weight should i put at the back?

I had the same problem when I was new to tractors. Here is what I learned...
Rule of thumb with loaders. Always carry a load close to the ground as possible. Never pick up a load when the tractor is on a side angle. Never use the loader raised in the air to push against anything! When on hills travel front up or down with loader close to the ground. The loader should never be used as a dig device. You will damage your transmission. A loader is just that. For Loose ground, gravel, back grading and such. Always wear your seat belt! As an option install a pre-tip over warning alarm. And Always have a counter weight. Hope that helps.

 

[Marauderer]

No Harm no Foul. Glad you are ok and are learning. I would say the curve is vertical but, it will flatten out shortly.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I had the same problem when I was new to tractors. Here is what I learned...
Rule of thumb with loaders. Always carry a load close to the ground as possible. Never pick up a load when the tractor is on a side angle. Never use the loader raised in the air to push against anything! When on hills travel front up or down with loader close to the ground. The loader should never be used as a dig device. You will damage your transmission. A loader is just that. For Loose ground, gravel, back grading and such. Always wear your seat belt! As an option install a pre-tip over warning alarm. And Always have a counter weight. Hope that helps.

How do you push over tall trees if you do not raise the bucket?