No Spark to plugs...please read and help

[Ford851]

So sorry guys, I didn't think there were any posts to this thread. Don't know how I missed them. I'm way behind on this thread. I reversed the linear setting in my personal profile and messed up. Looks like your getting expert advice. I'll read the history and get back if I see where I can help.

Ford851

[ruffdog]

Now that it is light out, I got a chance to look at the neighbors tractor. The points needed dressing and he tried doing it with a pocket tool nail file. I used one of my Mac Tools points cleaning emery boards and we are good now. My question is: If you change your primary voltage, do you have to change you condenser? When I manually operated the points with the key on, they didn't seem to arc any worse than the rest of the stuff I work on.

[Soundguy]

average breaker condensor has a deilectric good for 120+vdc

that's why you don't see 6v/12v listings for breakers and condensors or caps..

soundguy

[larry2660]

Jerry if you have not figured it out already try this.
get another condenser even though you put a new one on.
I had a VW years ago tuned it up cranked one or two times and would not crank again
NO spark at plug end. After not listening to my daddy tell me what to do I spent about 3 hrs trying to get it running, finally put the OLD condenser back on it fired up.
hope you get it running

Larry

[Soundguy]

don't buy parts without testing... unless you got more money than sens... er time.

use a test lamp inline with the coil.. crank over.. if it blinks.. points are not shorted.( thus condensor is not shorted )
if it stays lit, points are shorted. ( closed up or condensor short.. or feed thru insulator shorted )

if it kinda blinks but no or weak spark.. check breakers for arcing and pitting. this could be a sign of OPEN condensor. you can test a condensro with an analog ohm meter set to 1x scale.

short pig tail to cond body.. put leads on tail and body.. ohms should got to 0, then swing to infinite.

[jenkinsph]

don't buy parts without testing... unless you got more money than sens... er time.

use a test lamp inline with the coil.. crank over.. if it blinks.. points are not shorted.( thus condensor is not shorted )
if it stays lit, points are shorted. ( closed up or condensor short.. or feed thru insulator shorted )

if it kinda blinks but no or weak spark.. check breakers for arcing and pitting. this could be a sign of OPEN condensor. you can test a condensro with an analog ohm meter set to 1x scale.

short pig tail to cond body.. put leads on tail and body.. ohms should got to 0, then swing to infinite.

I agree with Soundguy on this, good advice. A small vom and a test light are useful for many things around the home and workshop.

[nj82tj]

Part number is: IC14 from NAPA.

Still haven't been able to pinpoint the problem. I replaced the distributor cap wires with new ones. Still no luck. When I put the wires one by one on the COIL to test them, they spark. They won't from the dist. cap though... but I was able to get a very small spark from the wire when directly on the distributor cap when the motor was about done cranking over. I'm not sure exactly how to explain it, it was kind of strange. All testing for the points and condenser come back positive. I cleaned the all the grounds on the tractor to make sure they were good.

"use a test lamp inline with the coil.. crank over.. if it blinks.. points are not shorted.( thus condensor is not shorted )
if it stays lit, points are shorted. ( closed up or condensor short.. or feed thru insulator shorted )"
Thanks Soundguy, I did this and the light blinked strongly so I do believe the condenser and points are fine.

I will continue to update as/if I find the problem.

Side note: I tested the current from the coil thru the wire into the cap and out the "ball" terminal that the rotor touches, it gets the same 12.5ish volts right there that is at the battery. Also, the rotor is brand new.

[Dr Dave]

I would check voltage at coil + terminal when cranking, should be at least 12 V. If not you may have a resistor in line somewere, bad wire or a bad ignition switch? If not ditch that coil and use your 6V coil.

The 6V coil will work, if there is a resistor, NAPA IC R11 will work if not, and Install a Ford starter relay with 2 large/2 small terminals, NAPA MPE ST81SB. Hook the I terminal to coil +, S terminal to ignition switch. There will now be 2 wires at the coil +. The I terminal from the relay, provides full voltage at crank and the resistor provides 6to 7 V in run position.

[Ford851]

I too have had problems with the dust cap. As I recall there was and arrow stamped on the dust cap. Anyway, had to go with new distributor and old dust cap. Can you try it without the dust cap?

[Ford851]

If you are using your old dust cap make sure it is clean. Sometimes black soot type stuff clings to the inside and forms a path to ground. Forgot to mention that.