jenkinsph
Super Star Member
The higher you raise the cut in pressure the tougher it will be on your motor and starting issues too. Seems you are asking alot from this little comressor imo.
Generator won't power compressor....ideas?
- Thread starter Boeing
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Soundguy
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sure. I don't disagree it could be a stall measurement.. one at which in short duration there would be smoke, sparks and / or a tripped breaker.
no argument there at all.
soundguy
Soundguy
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sandblasting and air sander and similar type tools are a real workout for a compressor.... no dout there...
OP
Boeing
Platinum Member
I'm getting alot of info here and thank you all, very much.
Forgive me as I keep asking questions
A "Hard Starting Capacitor" was suggested. I found several on GRAINGER.. for 1/4 to 10 HP motors; 110-377Volts. That would cover my application. The photo only has two leads, I presume to go INTO the "hot lead". How do you put into 240V where you have TWO hot leads?
Back to the pressure switch.....if the switch is NON-adjustable, can a better adjustable switch be installed?
I'm real excited here....might have a much better air compressor that will actually run on my 6500W generator....
[/B]
Forgive me as I keep asking questions
A "Hard Starting Capacitor" was suggested. I found several on GRAINGER.. for 1/4 to 10 HP motors; 110-377Volts. That would cover my application. The photo only has two leads, I presume to go INTO the "hot lead". How do you put into 240V where you have TWO hot leads?
Back to the pressure switch.....if the switch is NON-adjustable, can a better adjustable switch be installed?
I'm real excited here....might have a much better air compressor that will actually run on my 6500W generator....
[/B]
Soundguy
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go 240 first....
check your pressure switch/cutout.. etc. then post back
the start aid cap is a bandaid for an issue that really isn't a problem.. just a circumstance..
I also know of people that have installed manual unloader valves to start under no laod.. then kick in via ball valve / check valve..
check your pressure switch/cutout.. etc. then post back
the start aid cap is a bandaid for an issue that really isn't a problem.. just a circumstance..
I also know of people that have installed manual unloader valves to start under no laod.. then kick in via ball valve / check valve..
Raspy
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Boeing,
I'm not recommending the capacitor, as I think you will get it running by switching to 240 volts as described. But, to answer your question, the capacitor adds to the capacitor you already have. On my air conditioner, the capacitor leads simply plugged onto spades provided where the stock capacitor also plugged in. You would have to remove the capacitor cover on your motor and wire the new one in in parallel with the existing. It made a big difference, but you can do better in other ways. My genny is only 120 volts and my trailer with the air conditioner is also only 120 volts. The capacitor is designed to help with undersized generators in motor homes and trailers.
I'm not recommending the capacitor, as I think you will get it running by switching to 240 volts as described. But, to answer your question, the capacitor adds to the capacitor you already have. On my air conditioner, the capacitor leads simply plugged onto spades provided where the stock capacitor also plugged in. You would have to remove the capacitor cover on your motor and wire the new one in in parallel with the existing. It made a big difference, but you can do better in other ways. My genny is only 120 volts and my trailer with the air conditioner is also only 120 volts. The capacitor is designed to help with undersized generators in motor homes and trailers.
chim
Elite Member
I've been reading. Must be the understanding part. Please explain just how your theory works.
Soundguy
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here.. Way easier than me teaching an electronics course here in the thread... of which I have no time or inclination to do.. read this...
Amazon.com: Grob's Basic Electronics: Fundamentals of DC and AC Circuits with Simulations CD (9780073250366): Mitchel Schultz: Books
Soundguy
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here.. i'll throw a bone.. root mean square is .707 of peak..
e=IR
P=IE
those are dc measurements and don't take into account for inductance vs resistance.. but it's 'horseshoes and thermonukes close'
and under 'perfect' non real worl conditions that don't take into account fractional losses.. a hp = 746w
the math puts it very close from there.. a 4hp peak listing drops you into somewhere in the 2.8 range...
convert to w = 2088
derive current = 17.4a
a very realistic #
e=IR
P=IE
those are dc measurements and don't take into account for inductance vs resistance.. but it's 'horseshoes and thermonukes close'
and under 'perfect' non real worl conditions that don't take into account fractional losses.. a hp = 746w
the math puts it very close from there.. a 4hp peak listing drops you into somewhere in the 2.8 range...
convert to w = 2088
derive current = 17.4a
a very realistic #
Last edited:
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I'm getting alot of info here and thank you all, very much.
Forgive me as I keep asking questions
A "Hard Starting Capacitor" was suggested. I found several on GRAINGER.. for 1/4 to 10 HP motors; 110-377Volts. That would cover my application. The photo only has two leads, I presume to go INTO the "hot lead". How do you put into 240V where you have TWO hot leads?
Back to the pressure switch.....if the switch is NON-adjustable, can a better adjustable switch be installed?
I'm real excited here....might have a much better air compressor that will actually run on my 6500W generator....
If the compressor motor is field wired for 120v and can also be wired for 240v their should be a small diagram of how to connect the leads on the motor data plate. You will need to change up the leads in the motor junction box to make this work.