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  1. #1
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    Default

    Did a search, first. Did not see this exact topic discussed. I apologise if it has been beaten to death before. I can't find it.

    Bought an HST in May 2012.

    Dealer said rpm operation up to my choice. If doing heavy work, keep rpm near highest operation levels. If doing light work, it would do no harm to operate a little above idle...and low rpm is to my advantage, as it would consume less fuel. Less fuel and noise level would be the only reason I would like to operate at lower rpm.

    Obviously, if mowing, PTO operation dictates engine rpm, as I have only one PTO speed option - 540...rear finish mower.

    But if I'm moving a light pallet, or slowly driving with an empty bucket (pick your own version of some light duty task), is there any problem operating near engine idle or slightly above?

    Why I ask...

    Yesterday, another (more experienced) dealer said a gear version could operate at low rpm, saving fuel. But an HST should always run at PTO speed. Low rpm on HST would be bad for pump, flow, etc.

    I don't really know anything about all of this. Can someone with a real understanding explain?

    Thanks
    Last edited by madmax12; 08-27-2012 at 12:01 PM.
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  2. #2
    Silver Member heviduty's Avatar
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    Kubota L3400HST/LA463 loader JD 318 / 3ph(cat. 0)

    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    I wouldn't worry about puttering around doing light work at just above an idle unless it's really cold or you do it for a long time. From what I understand, the only reason to keep the rpm's up when not using the pto, or not working it hard, is to keep the engine temp up (which prevents carbon buildup), which could be a concern in your area in the winter. Our local dealer recommends not running less than 1500 for long periods.
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    Quote Originally Posted by heviduty View Post
    I wouldn't worry about puttering around doing light work at just above an idle unless it's really cold or you do it for a long time. From what I understand, the only reason to keep the rpm's up when not using the pto, or not working it hard, is to keep the engine temp up (which prevents carbon buildup), which could be a concern in your area in the winter. Our local dealer recommends not running less than 1500 for long periods.
    Your advice matches the operator's manual. It has the same warning for cold weather. However there is no info to indicate any difference/danger with gear vs hydro rpm operation. Thank you for your reply.

  4. #4
    Silver Member heviduty's Avatar
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    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    Quote Originally Posted by madmax12 View Post
    Your advice matches the operator's manual. It has the same warning for cold weather. However there is no info to indicate any difference/danger with gear vs hydro rpm operation. Thank you for your reply.

    I would interpret that as "no difference".
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  5. #5
    Super Member 94BULLITT's Avatar
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    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    My 4240 has a auto throttle advance so I almost always use it. My bx and the bobcat I had seem to operate good at 2000-2200 rpm. The hydro is not as responsive at idle or a low rpm. Sometimes on the bx I put the hydro pedal to the floor and control my speed with the throttle. I don't think carbon is as big of a deal with ULSD fuel,

  6. #6
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
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    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    When roading my B26, I run it pedal to the floor and what ever RPM needed for speed. I see no need in reving the engine to 3000 RPM to go 5 MPH when 1200-1800 is plenty. My B26 idles higher (1200) than my LS (900) which maybe is due to the hydrostatic in the B26. I rarely run the kubota at max rpm for anything as it just seems like it is running too fast and much too noisy. 2400 RPM or less works for back hoe work which is about all I do with it. FEL work, the rpm comes down to about 1800 and it has power to spin all the tires in 4WD without stalling the engine.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    Quote Originally Posted by heviduty View Post
    I would interpret that as "no difference".
    Unless someone teaches us differently, I'm inclined to agree with you.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    94BULLITT and Gary, thank you for your replies.

  9. #9
    Super Member crazyal's Avatar
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    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    I usually don't go too much lower than 1800. The fuel difference isn't much and I figure at 1800 there's lots of oil moving around plus there's plenty of power to move.
    Kubota L4240,Case 580K backhoe, Case 450 Dozer

  10. #10
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    Default Re: safe engine rpm "window" difference gear vs hydro

    I would have to just pretty much repeat what the others said, I run HST as well as gear and unless running something off the PTO as mentioned, run at the speed that gets it done comfortably though on none of my tractors is this "just above idle", usually no lower than about 1200-1500, but this may vary with different tractors/models.
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