Tire Wear from Traveling on Pavement

[boggen]

run it down the road. 5 miles is not that bad. most likely take you longer to put on trailer and trailer it down and unload, than it would be to hope on tractor and just drive to other property.

get a "slow motion" triangle on back of tractor. make sure your lights work and get a going.

on a side note do it during the day time. 1 hour after sun rises and between 1 hour before sun sets. so folks can actually see you. and make the trip during less busy time of the day for road traffic. for a little extra safety margin per say.

if you have any sort of "hills" you will need to drive up between properties. you might want to "down shift" before you get to a hill to go down it or up it. running a lower gear will more likely allow ya to make it up them steeper hills.

watch it on the brakes, more so if your tractor has "split" rear left and right brake pedals. one side may catch sooner than other side. and as a result at higher MPH may throw the tractor to one side.

[94BULLITT]

I would not worry about tire wear on such a short trip and just a few times a year. Just be sure you are out of 4wd.

[94BULLITT]

Check your tire pressure too.

[crazyangel]

Thanks for the great advice guys! I do have the slow moving emblem on the back and always use the hazard flashers when near the road. How would I check the toe in?

[94BULLITT]

How would I check the toe in?

Jack it up a take a scribe and turn the tire to marks it on the left and and right side. Pull a tape measure across the front and rear. Your front should be a 1/8''-3/16 narrower than the rear. You need to scribe the tires instead of measuring the tread because you could have a crooked tread.

[JDgreen227]

My deere only goes on hard surface roads when I am pushing snow, so I have never had to worry about tire wear. Aften almost 990 hours on the OEM turfs, there has been practically no tread wear, but the front sidewalls are badly cracked and leaking air.

About checking the toe in: What 94bullit says may not always be correct, my manual says for 2wd tractors the front measurement should be 1/8" to 1/4" less than the rear, but for MFWD tractors both measurements can be the same or not to exceed 1/8" difference at front or rear. And rather than jacking the tractor up, they say you can mark the center of both front tires in the front, measure that, then move the tractor so the tires make a 180 degree revolution, then measure the marks at the rear.

[Soundguy]

on split brakes, lock them together..if it has the option

[JDgreen227]

on split brakes, lock them together..if it has the option

Brakes.....what are brakes, Soundguy? One of the nice things about a hydro drive is that the operator almost never needs to use the brakes. I can't recall the last time I used mine.

[2458n]

Soundguy is right, the tires are there for use. You will have a hard time wearing out your tires on short road trips. Where I live the German Baptist drive tractors the same as cars or trucks. They seem to do quite well with tires. Some tractors are open station and would not be very comfortable in the winter.

[Soundguy]

Soundguy is right, the tires are there for use. You will have a hard time wearing out your tires on short road trips. Where I live the German Baptist drive tractors the same as cars or trucks. They seem to do quite well with tires. Some tractors are open station and would not be very comfortable in the winter.

yep.. I got an old ford 4000 that has racing slicks on front.. i mean NO ribs left.. smooth all the way across.. but not into the cords yet.

on my nh 7610s the 10-16 fronts are almost down to 2 ribs.. the center rig is about 1/8" high.

got a couple large farm patches inside from punctured.. but otherwise they run good.

i generally run a tire casing till the tire blows off the rim.. or bead dies during dismount to repalce tubes..

i try to get every last minute out of a tire based on what they cost these days!