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  1. #11
    Super Star Member LD1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Central Ohio
    Kubota MX5100

    Default Re: If you had to choose 1: Hyd Top Link or Tilt Link?

    I dont have either, but have to agree with others that the TL would be best in YOUR case with YOUR current implements.

    If I ever get a hydraulic link, for me it would be the side link. Cause I dont have a BB, and use a rear blade ALOT. AND I can reach the TL from the seat, but not the sidelink.
    ".........there is only one way to find out."
    "Ok, hold my beer and watch this.........."

    MX5100 DIY Remotes
    MX5100 Diverter install
    Front Snow Plow Install

    Ford 5500 Backhoe
    Kubota MX5100HST w/LA844
    2005 Dodge 3500 4x4 Diesel
    8N Rebuilt and restored
    Bushhog 306
    3 Homemade wood hauling trailers
    Dolmar 6400 84cc ported
    Sachs-Dolmar 120SI Ported
    (4) Sachs-Dolmar 116SI Ported
    Dolmar PS540
    Sachs-Dolmar 115i
    Sachs-Dolmar 117
    Sachs-Dolmar 112

  2. #12
    Elite Member Gordon Gould's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    NorthEastern, VT
    Kubota L3010DT, Kubota M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G Dozer

    Default Re: If you had to choose 1: Hyd Top Link or Tilt Link?

    Adding remotes is expensive especially if you have the dealer do it. If you have a reasonable amount of mechanical ability and the time and incliation to learn a few new things you can add a couple sets of remotes yourself for $250 to $300 range. It is really not hard. There are several projects on here you can look at if interested.

    I vote for the TL also because of your BB. Like LD1 says when using my rear blade the side link is usually the most useful one. For the landplane I use both the top link and side link. Both are very handy.
    "If you're not making any mistakes then you're not doing anything"

    M5640SUD, L3010DT, Farmi JL290 Winch, ATI Grapple, BearCat 5" Chipper, 6' & 7' Rear Blades, 7' Box Blade,
    7' Sickle Bar, 5' Land Plane Grading Scraper, Dresser TD7G Dozer

  3. #13
    Elite Member Bob77064's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    KY @ TN line
    2011 LS R3039

    Default Re: If you had to choose 1: Hyd Top Link or Tilt Link?

    Top link.

  4. #14
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    2012 John Deere 3520 Deluxe Cab

    Default Re: If you had to choose 1: Hyd Top Link or Tilt Link?

    Quote Originally Posted by Red Horse View Post
    Adding another set of remotes is not a simple inexpensive task I would assume-your thoughts?
    I just fiigured he might want to try and tackle the job himself if he wanted. Didn't know if thought he was limited indeffinately

  5. #15
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    John Deere 1026R


    Installing a manual diverter valve would be pretty easy and cost about $500 including hoses. Then you just select which cylinder you want to move and still have only one lever.

  6. #16
    Elite Member gwdixon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Northern CA

    Default Re: If you had to choose 1: Hyd Top Link or Tilt Link?

    Another vote for "top link" here.

    I have both and use the top link at least 10X more than the tilt. Hooking up implements, regulating the bite of a blade or rake, leveling a 3PH disc (or tilting it up for transport), and leveling any other implement are uses that immediately come to mind.

    The screw tilt arm is not that difficult to use although when plowing the hydraulic tilt is a real plus for adjusting after the first pass. Others like the tilt for grading with a blade.

    If you can somehow swing the cost of another remote then it will open up a lot of options besides just T&T. You can use the "tilt" remote to run hydraulics on an implement like hydraulic rippers. You will temporary lose the tilt function of course. Then you will spend on the second remote as well as a bunch of new hydraulic implements. It is amazing how the money just disappears!
    2009 Kubota M7040, R1s, LA1153 FEL, fork lift, 3 rear remotes, T&T
    2002 Kubota L48 TLB, 12", 18", 24" HD buckets
    2001 Kubota BX2200, Turf, LA211 FEL
    7.5' Howse 3PT disc, 88" Gearmore 4G4 box scraper, 4' box scraper, Gearmore GB85 blade, LandPride RCR2596 cutter, 6', 4' flail mowers, 6', 4' rototiller, 4' Bush Hog cutter, HD subsoiler, Bearcat 70554 chipper, Bush Hog PHD w/ 12", 6" augers, Ford 101 3-bottom plow, 8' land leveler, 6' rake, lots of misc.

  7. #17
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Pacific NW
    John Deere 3320 John Deere X739

    Default Re: If you had to choose 1: Hyd Top Link or Tilt Link?

    I would highly recommend the JD electric diverter valve kit and top and tilt kit for your rear attachments if the funds are available, that would leave your 3rd function remote open for your front attachments so you can use both at the same time. I've been doing a lot of fine grading this fall with my 3320 and have found that both the top and tilt are equally important whenever the tractor tilts, dips or rises on terrain changes. I love being able to adjust the box blade with the loader joy stick, after a while you don't even have to think about it, just like operating the loader.

  8. #18
    Platinum Member JD 4520's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    NW WA
    John Deere 4520


    Great and helpful comments by all. I am interested in the diverter kit. I plan to start with the hydraulic top link and progress from there.

    You all are so helpful.

    JD 4520, 400X FEL, Frontier Front Blade, Box Blade, Rotary Cutter, Landscape Rake, 48" Wildkat Grapple and PHD

  9. #19
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011

    Default Re: If you had to choose 1: Hyd Top Link or Tilt Link?

    I vote for the toplink but once you get it you will want the sidelink too.

  10. #20
    Super Member Scooby074's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Nova Scotia
    BX 25, ZD 326

    Default Re: If you had to choose 1: Hyd Top Link or Tilt Link?

    Id say tilt. Just from personal experience trying to crown roads with my box blade.

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