Why binders?

[MLB]

Mine come loose more often that I would like and are a minor pain to use.
I was thinking about a chain with hooks on both ends, through the hold down, to go to the rear of the trailer, pull forward till tension. And then a chain on front with one hook to the trailer, the chain through a bucket mounted hook and then hooked back on itself (don't know the term for the hooks). Is there a problem with that idea? what do the binders do that make them so necessary?
THANKS! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

What type of binders are you using? I suspect you are using the ratchet type. I personally don't use them, If you are not using a large enough binder it is difficult to get the bounce out of the tires on tractors. Many times they are just not large enough to take up that much slack.

I use the regular old binders and I don't remember ever having a problem with them coming loose unless the load I was hauling had cut into the dunnage or broken it.

You need to pull in opposite directions whenever you use chain to secure a piece of equipment. When your load is secured correctly you should be able to slam on your brakes and the load should still be sitting on your trailer the way you left it.

I would not use the binder free technique you have described.

 

[Hoeman00]

When the hydraulics bleed off your tractor WILL come loose.
All I use is ratchet binders and have NEVER had the come loose enough to let equipment move.
The snap-over binders can come loose if u don't tie the handles closed and if takes a good long cheater pipe to really load them.
When u hook up the chain the binder will be on, after attaching binder to chain (while still loose) I pull up on chain by hand a couple of times ( this gets the chain settled in and lets me gain a couple links).
When I haul my equipment I put a ratchet binder on each end of the load because I usually put the attachments in front and use the bucket or forks to secure them.
This way the machine stays where I put it.

 

[mbrule]

I agree with the previous posts, you must have some type of binders, or you will not get the load tight enough. I use both the ratchet and the single handle type. I prefer the single handle ones as they are quicker. I have moved cars tractors, you name it. Either type when properly used, pretty much make the load and the trailer "one" if you will. I usually wrap a bungee cord around the handle of the lever type binders, just for my own peice of mind. No matter what type I use, if I am going any didstance at all I stop periodicaly stop and verify tightness, thay are usually tight unless I secured them poorly!

The technique I use is to get the load on the trailer, affix the chains such that it cannot roll far, put it in neutral, raise hydraulics, or whatever is required to allow it to move freely, then tighten all chains / binders, then put in gear lower hydaulics etc. This ensures that you are not pulling against the tranmission but against you chains in the opposite direction as you tighten binders.

I should add that I just recently purchased a set of ratchet tie downs and axle straps, they are great!!!!!! I prefer overkill, so really like big heavy chains and binders! But now that I have used the straps a few times, I am confident that they are very strong and are much easier to deal with thatn chains if the load is appropriate for their use.

Hope this makes sense and helps!

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I checked your profile and did not see what size tractor you are hauling. That makes a difference also. I just have a little 2210 weighing 1400#. I use ratchet straps, on pulling in each direction from front and rear. If a bigger tractor, yes you will need chains and binders. If they come loose, they were not tight enough.
Please do not depend on the hydraulics of the tractor to keep chains/binders tight. Just remember at any time a hyd hose could let loose, bleed off ect. I am sure your tractor would not look good after it comes off trailer going down the highway!

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

You need to truly secure your load. That's why if you're using chains exclusively, you need binders. If you're not comfortable with chains and binders, use straps and ratchets. You can ratchet down all four corners if you choose. You can save some time by using chains around your front axle and secured to the trailer IF you leave your tractor in neutral until you ratchet the rear end tightly down. That will still give you a secure attachment on either end.

I use a different method now that's just as secure and even quicker yet. I drive my tractor on, put it in neutral and hook chains from the rear to my attachment points on the floor. Then I hook my winch cable to the front end and use my trailer winch to pull the tractor forward taking out the slack in the rear chains. I still toss a safety chain on the front end (much like the method you initially suggested) just because old habits die hard. Viola' I'm done and off I go. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif With this method I can have my tractor loaded and secured in five minutes from the time my front wheels hit the trailer edge to the time I'm first turning a wheel on the trailer.

 

[dummy]

From the way that you've described it, you're using the same method quite a few tow truck drivers use. If you're not letting the winch cable slacken, I would seriously reconsider this approach. Effectively, you get a nice snug three point tiedown, but if the winch malfunctions in any way......disaster strikes. Seen more than one winch failure, even on the large PTO types.

 

[cowboydoc]

I also use the big heavy straps. Much easier to use and in my opinion get a load down tight. I've got two sets of binders and chains that haven't seen use for a couple years now.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I lived in Lansing many years ago on a main street. A car stopped in front of a semi hauling a large(30000#) die. He wasn't going over 10mph but his binders had got some slack and when he hit his brakes it started to slide and off it came. It just caught the corner of the trailer and hit a parked car and leveled the whole side of the car FLAT. Aguy and his son had just gotten out of the car and was walking into a store. I'm sure they had brown pants on when I got out there. The driver said that he had tightened up the binders but had only driver about a mile and they had loosened up that fast.
Ever since then I always make sure my binders are tight and always check them again in a couple miles. Usually after some bumps you can get another notch.
30,000# can snap several 3/8 chains even if there is only a couple inches of slack.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color="blue"> "the same method quite a few tow truck drivers use" </font>

That's where I got it, alright. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

<font color="blue"> "if the winch malfunctions in any way......disaster strikes" </font>

That is EXACTLY why I use safety chains on the end with the winch cable. With towing and recovery work, safetly chains aren't just a good idea, they're the law, too. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I wouldn't do this without the safety chains. I just wasn't raised that way. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif As I wrote above, old habits die hard. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif