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  1. #21
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,625
    Location
    Lee, IL
    Tractor
    John Deere 1070

    Default Re: Box Blade 8 Acres??

    if it not too hard, perhaps try a pulverizer. I have decent luck with mine, but not on fresh sod. I actually have used it on gravel with better success than sod. Soft or semi-soft dirt I think it would be pretty good.

  2. #22
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8,826
    Location
    somewhere usa
    Tractor
    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: Box Blade 8 Acres??

    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    Steve, GREAT to get your input and I agree with using the land plane grading scraper.

    I think that I have said this before, but I will say it again, your lawn looks so good that it almost makes me sick.

    I can only dream of having a place so nice.

    Thanks for the compliment Brian.

  3. #23
    Gold Member El Wood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    267
    Location
    Michigan
    Tractor
    JD 3320

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jenkinsph

    That is what I use my landplane for most of the time, smoothing up lawn areas prior to planting. Works pretty good.
    Wow, that is an awesome place you got there. Can you tell me exactly how you got it that way? Did you use that land plane and then a seed spreader???

  4. #24
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8,826
    Location
    somewhere usa
    Tractor
    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: Box Blade 8 Acres??

    Thanks for the compliment.

    Mine was a heck of a lot rougher than what you have in your pictures. Had to remove tree and stumps, and rework where erosion ditches were rutting up the area about two to three feet deep. Used my backhoe to remove stumps and dig long deep trenches to bury the debris with ample cover on top. I had the heavy boxblade to start with and used it to do the major smoothing work. Built the 8' landplane while waiting for the new tractor to arrive and used it with the 110tlb to get the whole area smooth. I then tilled the area about eight inches deep and harrowed it smooth. Then used a small broadcast pull behind seeder to spread the seed. Ran the harrow across it to cover the seed and rolled with a small water filled roller. I should add that I did use a landscape rake and a few other tools to clean up initially but some of these tools you can get by without.

    Looking at your pictures again tonight I think a good disking would be beneficial in your case. I would recommend you mix in the stubble and trash, incorporating it into the soil. I would have a local farmer do this tillage work as this would be the cheapest way to do it. I built a 3ph harrow for $250 which is 8' wide with staggered tines which would be good for smoothing and covering your seed. I also built the land plane which is great for smoothing and flattening the ground out. If you can weld you can save some money on these attachments. For larger areas such as yours I use a 3ph spin spreader for seed and fertilizer. I recommend that you have these tools in your stable as all of these will be needed for routine upkeep. Dixon has made several good points I agree with above, what you buy or use might depend on what good deals you can find on finishing tools, rollers and or cultipackers. I find a landplane to be useful for field smoothing as well as maintaining the roads on most farms.

    I mention the harrow because they are much better for covering the seeds maintaing uniform coverage. Once you get to broadcasting the seed over the whole area you don't wan't a cheap drag to bunch up the seed or leave bare spots. Using the harrow makes it very easy to see the tire tracks when spreading the seed and fertilizer on subsequent passes. Heres some pictures of the harrow and if you click and zoom in on some of these early pics you can see the harrow lines in the soil and the resulting uniform seedlings that came up.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Box Blade 8 Acres??-3pt-harrow-8-006.jpg   Box Blade 8 Acres??-3pt-harrow-8-005.jpg  

  5. #25
    Veteran Member jimmysisson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,517
    Location
    W.Mass
    Tractor
    1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)

    Default

    Jenkinsph, what are the pins you have on your harrow? Looks good for a quick-hitch of some sort. Do you have a source? Hijack, sorry.
    Thanks, Jim
    "Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly" Mae West

  6. #26
    Gold Member El Wood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    267
    Location
    Michigan
    Tractor
    JD 3320

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jenkinsph
    Thanks for the compliment.

    Mine was a heck of a lot rougher than what you have in your pictures. Had to remove tree and stumps, and rework where erosion ditches were rutting up the area about two to three feet deep. Used my backhoe to remove stumps and dig long deep trenches to bury the debris with ample cover on top. I had the heavy boxblade to start with and used it to do the major smoothing work. Built the 8' landplane while waiting for the new tractor to arrive and used it with the 110tlb to get the whole area smooth. I then tilled the area about eight inches deep and harrowed it smooth. Then used a small broadcast pull behind seeder to spread the seed. Ran the harrow across it to cover the seed and rolled with a small water filled roller. I should add that I did use a landscape rake and a few other tools to clean up initially but some of these tools you can get by without.

    Looking at your pictures again tonight I think a good disking would be beneficial in your case. I would recommend you mix in the stubble and trash, incorporating it into the soil. I would have a local farmer do this tillage work as this would be the cheapest way to do it. I built a 3ph harrow for $250 which is 8' wide with staggered tines which would be good for smoothing and covering your seed. I also built the land plane which is great for smoothing and flattening the ground out. If you can weld you can save some money on these attachments. For larger areas such as yours I use a 3ph spin spreader for seed and fertilizer. I recommend that you have these tools in your stable as all of these will be needed for routine upkeep. Dixon has made several good points I agree with above, what you buy or use might depend on what good deals you can find on finishing tools, rollers and or cultipackers. I find a landplane to be useful for field smoothing as well as maintaining the roads on most farms.

    I mention the harrow because they are much better for covering the seeds maintaing uniform coverage. Once you get to broadcasting the seed over the whole area you don't wan't a cheap drag to bunch up the seed or leave bare spots. Using the harrow makes it very easy to see the tire tracks when spreading the seed and fertilizer on subsequent passes. Heres some pictures of the harrow and if you click and zoom in on some of these early pics you can see the harrow lines in the soil and the resulting uniform seedlings that came up.
    Thanks jenkinsph. I appreciate all the information. I think I'll start with a disc to loosen things up. I'll post some pics as I go.

  7. #27
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Posts
    6,514

    Default Re: Box Blade 8 Acres??

    Leveling out land you need to have a WIDE implement. But wide cost $$$. however, you can make what you need for fairly cheap. Get a couple 6x6's that are 12-20' long. Lay them out side by side with 3-6' of space between them and bolt them together with three to six 4x4's. Then you can put weight on top of that (a convenient log or 6 the same width works good). Run a chain from the ends to the tractor draw bar. After discing, you just toddle along fairly slowly. Try and go over the center of the high spots and the 6x6's will nip off the top and the dirt will move to the low spots. You may have to disc or if you have access to one, a rototiller the high spots to get the material loose. The wider the thing you are dragging the better, but it will take more weight to work well and more power to pull.

  8. #28
    Platinum Member JD 4520's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    820
    Location
    Brinnon, WA
    Tractor
    John Deere 4520

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jimmysisson
    Jenkinsph, what are the pins you have on your harrow? Looks good for a quick-hitch of some sort. Do you have a source? Hijack, sorry.
    Thanks, Jim
    You should be able to purchase the pins Jenkins used from any tractor or farm supply store.
    Gary

    JD 4520, 400X FEL, Frontier Front Blade, Box Blade, Rotary Cutter, Landscape Rake, 48" Wildkat Grapple and PHD

  9. #29
    Veteran Member gwdixon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    2,396
    Location
    Northern CA

    Default Re: Box Blade 8 Acres??

    Quote Originally Posted by JD 4520 View Post
    You should be able to purchase the pins Jenkins used from any tractor or farm supply store.
    Can you provide an Internet link. Can't seem to find them in the usual online stores using Google search.

    Maybe they have a special name.

  10. #30
    Platinum Member JD 4520's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    820
    Location
    Brinnon, WA
    Tractor
    John Deere 4520

    Default Re: Box Blade 8 Acres??

    Quote Originally Posted by gwdixon View Post
    Can you provide an Internet link. Can't seem to find them in the usual online stores using Google search.

    Maybe they have a special name.
    I have a PDF that is 2.5 MB but can't send it on TBN. I will try to find a link so you can pull it from the internet. Alternatively I can email it to you.
    Gary

    JD 4520, 400X FEL, Frontier Front Blade, Box Blade, Rotary Cutter, Landscape Rake, 48" Wildkat Grapple and PHD

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