8N no fuel at the spark plug?

[cfb]

Hi,
well, I'm very pleased to report back that I got prime back to my oil pump, but then it would not start until I put a little gas in three cylinders. What is not working? I took #2, #3 &#4 plugs out one at a time unserted back into the plug wire and touched the end to the block while cranking and got good spark. Just before I replaced #2 and #4 plug wires. Last year I replaced the ignition switch. I believe I'm getting good gas flow through the carburator. I had drained it a month ago so I could add fresh gas today. I added maybe a gallon. When I cranked after putting gas down the plug hole, it started right up. It died a few time, but started right back up. I had it running, pulled it outside of the garage and then died again. I pushed it back in, thinking I was in the resovoir area so added more gas but would not start until I put a few drops down the plug holes again. It started right up, very little choking. Then ran quite a while. I went forward and backward in the drive and some circles - I was really enjoying driving it again after a two year lapse. Then it died again and would not start. I'm going to get a few more gallons and put it in - but just know I'm going to have to put gas down the plugs. What is it I need to look at and fix? thank you. cfb

 

[Soundguy]

some of these girls like a lil choke for a bit while warming.. some don't many times you will find a clothespin near the choke knob.. this is a hold open device.

pull the carb bowl drain and make sure it has good flow.

pull the hose off the carb mouth and make sure it has a good choke flapper and bypass flap on it, installed in correct direction.

what color are plugs?

have you compression tested her?

how long has she sat?

rings can gum up.

jumper battery to coil to bypass ign switch when troubleshooting spark. have you gapped points correctly? plugs? cleaned either?

lubed cam lobe for the rubbing block?

post back

 

[cfb]

it sat a year B4 thanksgiving 2011 when a friend got it started for me - same as I did today with gas down the plugs. But we put in new plugs and a new ignition switch. Didn't get oil pressure at the time so hauled it to the barn where it sat until today when I got prime to the oil pump but then started with gas down the plug. I did clean them a few weeks ago getting ready for today and thought they were too dirty for just the short time it was running last year. I have not tested the compression but thought it pretty good. I had put my hand over the plug hole and had really good suction. But did not do that on all the cylinders. If rings gum up, what do I do about that? Remember, I'm new at this so terminology is all new so please use baby steps if you don't mind. I did pull the hose off the carb mouth and recall that the flapper worked, but will check that all out again.

 

[Soundguy]

you may have stuck valves and or rings.

the comp test wet / dry will tell you exactly.

what I like to do is get a quart of cheap atf-f or dex 3 fluid from walmart.. and add a lil to the crankcase oil, gas, and then a tablespoon downt he plug holes.. then let it set. later remove plugs and roll over then repalce plugs and start her.

do check fuel flow

 

[jake98]

sounds like maybe a sticky carb float.

 

[super55]

I agree that it sounds like the needle valve might be hung up in the carb. From what you described it sounds like when you do indeed have it running it is running like a champ. Sometimes the needle valve connected to the float in the carb bowl gets hung up and restricts fuel flow in the carb. I don't know if it's the ethanol in the fuel these days or what but I seem to see that cause with more regularity these days. I've also seen something similar to this when the float was installed upside down in the carb. I don't know who would have done that

 

[Jerry/MT]

Good spark is FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE, the color of lightning. Check that when the tractor dies.

If you have good spark then check for fuel flow.Check for fuel delivery at the carb by opening the tank valve and removing the plug at the carb bottom. Gas should come out like a cow peein' on flat rock. If it dribbles or is intermittent, the fuel delivery is restricted. Make sure the tank vent is not blocked and the "secret filter" in the carb fuel inlet elbow is not blocked. if they are OK, then you may have a restriction in the flaot valve area nd you'll hev to pull the carb and clean the passage.

The N series Ford engines are notorious for having sticking valves after they sit uunused for a while. Do a compression check . Very low dry compression pressures and very low wet compression pressures indicate a burned or sticking valve. As soundguy suggested ATFin the cylinders and 1 pt to a full tank of gas can help prevent that. if you do find stciling valves, open the valve covers on the side and find the offending valve(s). Spray them with brake cleaner, acetone, etc and use a toothbrush to work it in. Continue until the offending valve(s) move freely.

 

[cfb]

Thank you everyone. These are really good tips I sure was not aware of. After church on Sunday, I added more fuel to be sure I'd exceed the reservoir. I opened the fuel control two turns, and it started right up with hardly any choke. It idled nicely for 5 minutes or so until I got the rear tire pumped up again. I backed it out of the garage and drove it back to the barn. Different than Saturday, it never even hinted at hesitating. I think I will check out the fuel flow. I read about three filters to check but will start with that plug at the bottom of the carb. Then I'll investigate that wet/dry compression testing.
The spark was fat and bluish so thanks for that Jerry.
Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving. I probably won't have much time before Christmas to work on the tractor, but will try to read up. I'd like to move on to giving her a metal patch and paint job.

 

[Soundguy]

forget about -ANY- body work untill you have her running good.

everyone hates to scratch paint taking parts off