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  1. #11
    Elite Member gwdixon's Avatar
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    Jul 2009
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    Northern CA

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    I have found the tapered square ones to be the best design for lightly seating in the existing Zerk hole and then twisting it counter-clockwise with a tap handle or a very small adjustable wrench. The ones that look like a very coarse reversed screw thread seem to slip more than the square type.

    Here is an example:

    Craftsman 5 pc. Screw Extractor Set - Tools - Hand Tools - Tap & Dies & Sets

    If you have a tractor then the chances are 95% that you have broken off a Zerk. Keep that EZ-Out with your Zerks for future use.

    The remaining 5% never have greased or are outright liars.
    2009 Kubota M7040, R1s, LA1153 FEL, fork lift, 3 rear remotes, T&T
    2002 Kubota L48 TLB, 12", 18", 24" HD buckets
    2001 Kubota BX2200, Turf, LA211 FEL
    7.5' Howse 3PT disc, 88" Gearmore 4G4 box scraper, 4' box scraper, Gearmore GB85 blade, LandPride RCR2596 cutter, 6', 4' flail mowers, 6', 4' rototiller, 4' Bush Hog cutter, HD subsoiler, Bearcat 70554 chipper, Bush Hog PHD w/ 12", 6" augers, Ford 101 3-bottom plow, 8' land leveler, 6' rake, lots of misc.

  2. #12
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    58
    Location
    Goochland, Va
    Tractor
    Bobcat 773

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    I had a ruined grease point on my skid steer at the top joint of one of the loader arms and needed to work. I pulled the pin and packed it with grease then replaced the pin. A little bit of work - but good enough to get a day's work done.

  3. #13
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Posts
    6,548

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    I use the square ones but like the screw ones better. The force to hammer the square ones in can distort the remaining bit in the hole and make it harder to get out. I also like to use left hand drill bits the friction, vibration and left rotation frequently gets the left over nubbin out pretty easy.

  4. #14
    Super Star Member k0ua's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    14,615
    Location
    Branson, Mo.
    Tractor
    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    Quote Originally Posted by gwdixon View Post
    I have found the tapered square ones to be the best design for lightly seating in the existing Zerk hole and then twisting it counter-clockwise with a tap handle or a very small adjustable wrench. The ones that look like a very coarse reversed screw thread seem to slip more than the square type.

    Here is an example:

    Craftsman 5 pc. Screw Extractor Set - Tools - Hand Tools - Tap & Dies & Sets

    If you have a tractor then the chances are 95% that you have broken off a Zerk. Keep that EZ-Out with your Zerks for future use.

    The remaining 5% never have greased or are outright liars.

    Or are just very careful or very lucky? Have owned tractors and implements for over 20 years, grease on schedule, and have never broken a Zerk. I know I know, my time is coming.

    James K0UA
    James KUA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN


  5. #15
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
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    6,548

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    Quote Originally Posted by k0ua View Post
    Or are just very careful or very lucky? Have owned tractors and implements for over 20 years, grease on schedule, and have never broken a Zerk. I know I know, my time is coming.

    James K0UA

    Him lucky? You sound like the lucky one! 20 years and no broken zerks... sheesh! I break at least a couple every year. Mostly on the back hoes though.

  6. #16
    Gold Member BuilderML's Avatar
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    Nov 2012
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    358
    Location
    Tolland, CT
    Tractor
    CCY SX3100

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    Ez out should work, if not just drill and tap for a new zerk. I would spray some PB and let that set for awhile before trying the ez out. Good luck!!

  7. #17
    Silver Member Phil48's Avatar
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    Mar 2012
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    109
    Location
    Eastern TownShip
    Tractor
    CK20 HST

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    -ya769-jpgBeing part of the 95 % pack, I really like those:
    Snap-on
    Phil

  8. #18
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
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    Jun 2008
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    7,410
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    Bismarck Arkansas
    Tractor
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    I think I would drill out the zerk hole a bit first so that I could use the largest EZ out that I could. NOTHING worse than a broken EZ out as they are next to impossible to drill out. Dont put too much pressure on it when attempting to remove the zerk. If it doesnt come out easily, drill out the hole, retap to a larger sized zerk. Dont risk breaking off the EZ out in the zerk.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  9. #19
    Gold Member ddb123's Avatar
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    Oct 2011
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    481
    Location
    Southwest MO
    Tractor
    Kubota L3540

    Default

    Okay, another question. How tight should the zerk be? I found a couple loose ones on my tractor. I just snugged them up.
    Kubota L3540 HST
    Kubota L4300 Gear *gone!*
    Ford F-350 6.9L diesel

  10. #20
    Elite Member gwdixon's Avatar
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    Northern CA

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    Quote Originally Posted by ddb123 View Post
    Okay, another question. How tight should the zerk be? I found a couple loose ones on my tractor. I just snugged them up.
    Zerks are usually made from a softer metal I think. That way if the Zerk comes out whole, which has happened to me, then the Zerk threads are destroyed rather than the base metal (socket) threads.

    That softness may also be the cause of them breaking off seemingly so easily. Not really such a bad thing.

    So they should be tight but not too tight. Snug, as you state, is a good description. You don't want to bung up or strip those tiny threads.

    Usually there is grease on the threads so, just by use, they will eventually work loose and break more easily because sheer forces can be applied to the threaded shaft rather than be supported by the nut-like shoulder. Lock-Tite is NOT recommended.

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