Broken zerk -- can't get it out

[gwdixon]

I have found the tapered square ones to be the best design for lightly seating in the existing Zerk hole and then twisting it counter-clockwise with a tap handle or a very small adjustable wrench. The ones that look like a very coarse reversed screw thread seem to slip more than the square type.

Here is an example:

Craftsman 5 pc. Screw Extractor Set - Tools - Hand Tools - Tap & Dies & Sets

If you have a tractor then the chances are 95% that you have broken off a Zerk. Keep that EZ-Out with your Zerks for future use.

The remaining 5% never have greased or are outright liars. :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

 

[gwiley]

I had a ruined grease point on my skid steer at the top joint of one of the loader arms and needed to work. I pulled the pin and packed it with grease then replaced the pin. A little bit of work - but good enough to get a day's work done.

 

[john_bud]

I use the square ones but like the screw ones better. The force to hammer the square ones in can distort the remaining bit in the hole and make it harder to get out. I also like to use left hand drill bits the friction, vibration and left rotation frequently gets the left over nubbin out pretty easy.

 

[k0ua]

I have found the tapered square ones to be the best design for lightly seating in the existing Zerk hole and then twisting it counter-clockwise with a tap handle or a very small adjustable wrench. The ones that look like a very coarse reversed screw thread seem to slip more than the square type.

Here is an example:

Craftsman 5 pc. Screw Extractor Set - Tools - Hand Tools - Tap & Dies & Sets

If you have a tractor then the chances are 95% that you have broken off a Zerk. Keep that EZ-Out with your Zerks for future use.

The remaining 5% never have greased or are outright liars. :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Or are just very careful or very lucky? Have owned tractors and implements for over 20 years, grease on schedule, and have never broken a Zerk. I know I know, my time is coming.

James K0UA

 

[john_bud]

Or are just very careful or very lucky? Have owned tractors and implements for over 20 years, grease on schedule, and have never broken a Zerk. I know I know, my time is coming.

James K0UA

Him lucky? You sound like the lucky one! 20 years and no broken zerks... sheesh! I break at least a couple every year. Mostly on the back hoes though.

 

[BuilderML]

Ez out should work, if not just drill and tap for a new zerk. I would spray some PB and let that set for awhile before trying the ez out. Good luck!!

 

[Phil48]

Being part of the 95 % pack, I really like those:
Snap-on

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think I would drill out the zerk hole a bit first so that I could use the largest EZ out that I could. NOTHING worse than a broken EZ out as they are next to impossible to drill out. Dont put too much pressure on it when attempting to remove the zerk. If it doesnt come out easily, drill out the hole, retap to a larger sized zerk. Dont risk breaking off the EZ out in the zerk.

 

[ddb123]

Okay, another question. How tight should the zerk be? I found a couple loose ones on my tractor. I just snugged them up.

 

[gwdixon]

Okay, another question. How tight should the zerk be? I found a couple loose ones on my tractor. I just snugged them up.

Zerks are usually made from a softer metal I think. That way if the Zerk comes out whole, which has happened to me, then the Zerk threads are destroyed rather than the base metal (socket) threads.

That softness may also be the cause of them breaking off seemingly so easily. Not really such a bad thing.

So they should be tight but not too tight. Snug, as you state, is a good description. You don't want to bung up or strip those tiny threads.

Usually there is grease on the threads so, just by use, they will eventually work loose and break more easily because sheer forces can be applied to the threaded shaft rather than be supported by the nut-like shoulder. Lock-Tite is NOT recommended.