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  1. #31
    Bronze Member
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    West Wales UK
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    UTB 445 DT; Wheelhorses C121, C101, A8

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    DONT USE AN EZ OUT!!! If you hadn't heard of them, you certainly won't be able to use one without breaking the bloody thing. EZ outs are the worst named tools there are. Once you break the EZ out, & you will, especially in small grease nipple (Zerk in USA) sizes, you have a bigger problem then you started with. Only time served engineers with touch like a gynaecologist can use EZ outs without breaking them.
    Use a cordless drill set to low torque & left hand drill bits to expand the hole - at least with a nipple you have a central hole to centralise the drill bit. Odds are at some stage the bit will grab & wind out the broken nipple. If not then tap in a suitably sized Torx bit & use that to remove it.
    John L in wet West Wales

  2. #32
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    easy outs work decently well if you use them correctly.

    most times I see a broke easy out.. it's a 5/8 cross threaded fine thread bolt that is rusted in.. and the person drileld a 3/16 hole in it 1/2" deep and use dthe smallest extractor they had then twisted it till it broke.

    use them like you should be and they USUALLY work.

    and that involves, many times, drilling the bolt hollow till you are near the parent metal or thread roots.. then you stop.. also tricks like heating and quenching, and lefty drillbits all help.. plus creeping penetrant.. and lots of patience.

    if there is any stud left.. i usually like to try to weld a nut on first.

    also.. a straight pull is more apt to break a fastener that is stuck.. a air gun thumping on it really helps.. I've even used an air hammer to tap on them face down to help loosen.. that and and air chissle to spin off a stuck fastener.. only tried that one a few times.. but had great result on a rounded head that looked like it was beginning to distort / break

  3. #33
    Gold Member ddb123's Avatar
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    Oct 2011
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    Southwest MO
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    Kubota L3540

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    Well, I tried the EZ outs without success. Watched some YouTube videos on tips to make them work and none did. Finally removed the pin so I could take it into the garage and get a better look at it. The hardened steel EZ outs were actually wearing down trying to use them. Tried to drill out the remaining zerk and it defeated the drill bit. Didn't break the bit, it just plain would not effect the zerk. That zerk is titanium or something.

    What would be cheaper, buying a new pin or taking this one to a machine shop? Are these pins standard (could I get one at a farm supply shop) or would I have to order a new one from kubota?

    I'm thinking if I re-tapped it there would be fine metal shavings getting into my grease and that kind of defeats the purpose of greasing.
    Kubota L3540 HST
    Kubota L4300 Gear *gone!*
    Ford F-350 6.9L diesel

  4. #34
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Mar 2002
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    Central florida
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    is the zerk base spinning and thus defeating the drill bit?

    if so.. get a torch and get it right down on the hole.. let it turn the inside red and theus blow a bit of air and turn the insert to slag.. quench in oil.. got any used motor oil.. that's what I quench pins in if I have to cut or weld on them..

    then it should be easier to dig / drill out the debris.

    a piercing tip may help.. I'd had to burn t he center out of a stuck pin before.. was way to hard to dril ( way to expensive to drill..e tc.. ) yeilded to the gas axe though.

    I've burned a stub of a hard bolt a bit and not amaged a cast head around it.. just got to keep that center hotspot of the torch cutting flame on the right part and then blow a bit..
    one other option is to weld it out or burn it out with a chamfer rod...

  5. #35
    Gold Member ddb123's Avatar
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    Southwest MO
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    Kubota L3540

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    The zerk base is not spinning at all. It refuses to move. It just seems to be a lot harder than any of the drill bits I have.

    I don't have a torch.

    At least this happened when I don't really need to use my loader!

    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy View Post
    is the zerk base spinning and thus defeating the drill bit?

    if so.. get a torch and get it right down on the hole.. let it turn the inside red and theus blow a bit of air and turn the insert to slag.. quench in oil.. got any used motor oil.. that's what I quench pins in if I have to cut or weld on them..

    then it should be easier to dig / drill out the debris.

    a piercing tip may help.. I'd had to burn t he center out of a stuck pin before.. was way to hard to dril ( way to expensive to drill..e tc.. ) yeilded to the gas axe though.

    I've burned a stub of a hard bolt a bit and not amaged a cast head around it.. just got to keep that center hotspot of the torch cutting flame on the right part and then blow a bit..
    one other option is to weld it out or burn it out with a chamfer rod...
    Kubota L3540 HST
    Kubota L4300 Gear *gone!*
    Ford F-350 6.9L diesel

  6. #36
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    I'm finding it hard to believe a mass produced grease zerk is harder than a good drill bit. if it's not spinning.. it may be an angle issue.

    switch to a carbit bit... ( masonry )

    I'd drilled MANY a pin with those.. and they have a slight different pitch.

    if that don't work.. got an endmill or metal bur and a die grinder?

    it WILL come out.. we just have to persuade it to..

  7. #37
    Gold Member ddb123's Avatar
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    Kubota L3540

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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy
    I'm finding it hard to believe a mass produced grease zerk is harder than a good drill bit. if it's not spinning.. it may be an angle issue.

    switch to a carbit bit... ( masonry )

    I'd drilled MANY a pin with those.. and they have a slight different pitch.

    if that don't work.. got an endmill or metal bur and a die grinder?

    it WILL come out.. we just have to persuade it to..
    Well you are probably right, I worded that poorly. The bit is probably not softer, it is just not getting any bite. I actually have a masonry bit that is probably the proper size. Not home at the moment so I'll have to check late tonight or early tomorrow. I do appreciate the advice and encouragement, it doesn't seem like something this small should be so baffling.
    Kubota L3540 HST
    Kubota L4300 Gear *gone!*
    Ford F-350 6.9L diesel

  8. #38
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Broken zerk -- can't get it out

    I'd call it stubborn. i think the masonry bit will give you some joy.

    I bought a junker tractor a couple years back. old ford 950 that sat in a peat bog and ran a water pump.. I'd say 60% of the bolts and studs on it were broke off or corss threaded and broke off.

    for 2 weeks I drilled out, backed out.. ez-outed, and welded and torchwed out fasteners.

    at first I was using my good cobalt bits. after going thru 3 1/4" bits.. ( and some lefties ) I replaced it one more time and switched to carbide. 2 bits did the rest of the tractor... some of them were darn stubborn.

    2 hardest ones were a front plug in the steering bolster.. easy.. a soft cast iron plug right? someone broke off the end of a ratched driver int he end of the recesced plug.. and that tool steel was hard. The had torched on it.. and I think.. pretty much welded the plug tot he parent metal.. I wleded a nut to the end of the stub.. got a lil turn on it.. thought it might be backing the plug out.. but actually all it did was pull the ratchet drive out.. which was actually great... I then just drilled and tapped for a 3/8 pipe plug in place of the smaller one that had been there.
    flushed the sump and was happy..

    the other was a lil plug in a final drive.. bugger was hard to get at.. but a carbide bit drilled thru it and then got it thin.. then an extractor pulled it out when it was paper thin.....

  9. #39
    Platinum Member JohninCT's Avatar
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    Central CT
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    Struck Magnatrac 6000, Kioti DK40SE

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    Quote Originally Posted by ddb123
    The zerk base is not spinning at all. It refuses to move. It just seems to be a lot harder than any of the drill bits I have.

    I don't have a torch.

    At least this happened when I don't really need to use my loader!
    Harder than any drill bits? No way. Sharpen those bits! Are you using too large a bit to drill it? The bit you should be using should be only slightly larger than the center hole in the grease fitting (pretty darned small). EZ out should take that thing out no problem. Grease fittings are real small diameter and held in by very few threads. It's not like you're trying to remove a broken head bolt or rusted in exhaust bolt. Small sharp drill bit, lots of penetrating oil, your EZ out and patience and you'll get it out.
    "I don't do landscaping... I do battle with vegetation"

  10. #40
    Gold Member ddb123's Avatar
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    Kubota L3540

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohninCT

    Harder than any drill bits? No way. Sharpen those bits! Are you using too large a bit to drill it? The bit you should be using should be only slightly larger than the center hole in the grease fitting (pretty darned small). EZ out should take that thing out no problem. Grease fittings are real small diameter and held in by very few threads. It's not like you're trying to remove a broken head bolt or rusted in exhaust bolt. Small sharp drill bit, lots of penetrating oil, your EZ out and patience and you'll get it out.
    Trust me, I've been trying. Lol. I used the smallest bit that didn't just slide into the remaining zerk. It is astounding to me and to those I've had at my house helping me that the darned thing just wouldn't come out. The EZ out is actually wearing down to smoothness.
    Kubota L3540 HST
    Kubota L4300 Gear *gone!*
    Ford F-350 6.9L diesel

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