How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable

[Cigar Face]

I have used a screw type for most of my life, I now have a hydraulic top link and I can't for the life of me figure out how I made is to this point without one! Hydraulic is the way to go, I don't have the double check valve and I think it would be very useful because new or not there is some movement. Never have used a chain or any other type of a floating setup and I personally don't see any need for it, as a matter of fact just the thought of it scares me a lot. Just not the way I way taught how to do things, and you know what they say about an old dog! IMHO only!

Maybe it depends on the cylinder you buy. Myself and many others have a fit rite hyrdraulic top link and have no movement or drift whatsoever. There is no check valve on these cyldiners from what i understand either

[mikehaugen]

I am thinking that if there is drifting of the cylinder it comes more from the valve than anything. If the piston seal on the cylinder bled by then a check valve would not help. The check valves will only work make up for a bad valve or leaking hose/coupler.

[Guesseral]

When you say that there is some movement, just how much is "some" ?

If you hit a rock with a plow or a disk or any ground engagment piece of equipment the will come up with a hard center link it only can come up as far as the 3PT will allow, with the floating center link(chain) the entire impliment could come up and hit the operator. This is only my opinion I have seem these items jump up and I would never use a floating type of center arm because that is my choice. Others do and that is there choice, everyone does what they do.

[Guesseral]

If you hit a rock with a plow or a disk or any ground engagment piece of equipment the will come up with a hard center link it only can come up as far as the 3PT will allow, with the floating center link(chain) the entire impliment could come up and hit the operator. This is only my opinion I have seem these items jump up and I would never use a floating type of center arm because that is my choice. Others do and that is there choice, everyone does what they do.

Oops wrong movement.

New answer not much very little acturally.

[MtnViewRanch]

Oops wrong movement.

New answer not much very little acturally.

Thanks for correcting, saved me a bunch of typing. As far as the hydraulic ram moving in and out as you move along and are working the implement, I would say 1/8"-3/16" is normal. What that movement is from, is the expansion of the hoses at every shock load. If a person has a DPOCV, it does not move at all.

So if a person does not want to have use of the float function and that 1/8"-3/16" movement bothers them, then they should consider getting a link that has a check valve.

[john_bud]

The question is interesting, but mute. The valves for top&tilt don't contain a float function. There are also very few times when I would even want a randomly changing top link length. Mowing is about the only thing and they ALREADY have a flexible top link connection point. Implements that operate best with a "float" top connection will come with some type of swinging link, so what's the point?


The real Q is do you want to pay for the luxury of being able to sit in the seat and make tuning adjustments to the 3pt implement? The cost of the valving, plumbing, mounting and cylinders is going to be 500-2000 depending on DIY self source or factory /dealer installed. I don't have them, but would like them -- can't afford it though.

[MtnViewRanch]

The question is interesting, but mute. The valves for top&tilt don't contain a float function. There are also very few times when I would even want a randomly changing top link length. Mowing is about the only thing and they ALREADY have a flexible top link connection point. Implements that operate best with a "float" top connection will come with some type of swinging link, so what's the point?


The real Q is do you want to pay for the luxury of being able to sit in the seat and make tuning adjustments to the 3pt implement? The cost of the valving, plumbing, mounting and cylinders is going to be 500-2000 depending on DIY self source or factory /dealer installed. I don't have them, but would like them -- can't afford it though.

Why do you say that the remote valves don't have float? Some tractors may not have that option, but many do. I have 7 rear remotes between 2 tractors, they all have the float option. Many if not all of the manufacturers at least offer the float function valves as an option if it is not already std on many of their models. I know for a fact that Kioti, Kubota, JD and Mahindra have them either as std equipment or as an option. I have had customers that have said that the articulating bracket mount that you mentioned for mowing was not enough for their purposes. So while none of this may apply to your conditions, believe me when I say that it does for many many others.

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks for correcting, saved me a bunch of typing. As far as the hydraulic ram moving in and out as you move along and are working the implement, I would say 1/8"-3/16" is normal. What that movement is from, is the expansion of the hoses at every shock load. If a person has a DPOCV, it does not move at all.

So if a person does not want to have use of the float function and that 1/8"-3/16" movement bothers them, then they should consider getting a link that has a check valve.

gotta be some long hoses ... or air in em.

[john_bud]

Why do you say that the remote valves don't have float? Some tractors may not have that option, but many do. I have 7 rear remotes between 2 tractors, they all have the float option. Many if not all of the manufacturers at least offer the float function valves as an option if it is not already std on many of their models. I know for a fact that Kioti, Kubota, JD and Mahindra have them either as std equipment or as an option. I have had customers that have said that the articulating bracket mount that you mentioned for mowing was not enough for their purposes. So while none of this may apply to your conditions, believe me when I say that it does for many many others.

I guess because none of the ones I've used has ever had float on the rear outlets, nor have I seen one on any other machine (or even heard of one). Must not be a popular option here?

[Gator6x4]

Please explain double-pilot check valve cylinder.

Animal, vegetable or mineral?

I try to get smarter about tractor stuff each day.

Basically a double-pilot check valve keeps a hydraulic cylinder from contracting or expanding. When used on top and side link hydraulic cylinders one can position an implement one time and it will remain at the initial settings, just link the fixed manual top and side links. Hydraulic cylinders used in a top-and-tilt system without the double-pilot-check valve will drift and change while in use requiring constant or frequent adjustments. The red hydraulic cylinder in the picture on this haytools.com web page is equipped with a double-pilot-check valve.Hydraulic top links, Top-N-Tilt, hyd. Side link cylinders