How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable

   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #1  

PandDLong

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2012
Messages
162
Location
Southern Alberta
Tractor
Kubota L3540, JD Z445 Mower, JD LX188 Lawn Tractor
I've recently read through many threads on top-links - the options and advantages. I have pulled together what I read into this single new thread and I am looking for more data - I hope it becomes a useful reference for those considering their options and a source of ideas for those with a hydraulic top-link.

I see 3 basic ways in which a top-link is used:

Fixed - the length is set and the intent is to have it stay at that length when using the attachment. This is the usage of the mechanical screw-type top-link. With hydraulics - a top-link with double-pilot check valves (DPCV) would work the best, a regular cylinder (without DPCV) will have some drift over time but reportedly it is minor.

Float - the length changes based upon the push-pull of the attachment during usage. A mechanical top-link can't float but operators can mimic a float in these situations by replacing the top-link with a chain. With hydraulics, a valve with a float position and a top-link cylinder without DPCV are required.

Adjustable - the length is adjusted during usage by the operator in the seat. This requires a hydraulic top-link (or a very creative hand-crank).


What follows is a list of attachments and how the top-link could best be used. Of course, practically all attachments can be used with a fixed top-link as that is the default standard typically supplied with every tractor -- the methods of usage listed below provide additional advantanges for the situation. (Of course this all just opinion).

Blade (Cutting Edge) Fixed
Blade (Back Side) Float
Boom Pole Adjustable
Bush-Hog Float
Carry-All Adjustable
Disc Harrow Float
Mower Float
Pallet Forks Adjustable
Rototiller Fixed
Snow Blower (Reg.) Fixed
Snow Blower (Drifts) Adjustable

In addition, for hook-up, Float is useful.

That's all I remember from my reading, What about:

Grader/Scaper
Land Plane
Middle-Buster
Rake
Sub-soiler
???
???

How do you use your top-link? What do you recommend against? Why and why not.
 
   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #2  
I am experimenting with a Category-1 Hydraulink.

HydrauLink - a self-contained air over hydraulic top link

As of 12/10/2012: 473 posts, lots of bitching, not many operating experiences.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/174498-hydraulink-self-contained-air-over.html


Used with my 60"/630 pound Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade Hydraulink is an asset. The piston works in-and-out 1"-2" reducing hobby-horsing; hence frequency of minor top link adjustments. And, yes, theoretically it is adjustable from the tractor seat, however my Hydraulink, manufactured in China, does not maintain the control valve wheel in the "up" position. It is usually works "down" by gravity. "Down" is notably inconvenient.

Used with my 60"/323 pound King Kutter Rotary Harrow, Hydraulink is NOT as good as the factory Kubota screw top link. The Cat-1 Hydraulink is just a bit longer than the Kubota link, because the Hydraulink piston will not screw into the body for about the final 3/4". This translates into a considerable reduction in useful adjustment range on the harrow, over its 60" diameter. With the longer Hydraulink I cannot quite get the Rotary Harrow flat, the rear is often lower than I want and I cannot adjust the front lower than the rear....so I usually use the Kubota factory screw top link with the Rotary Harrow, which provides full range of adjustment. With a Rotary Harrow top link length is often critical to the task, however top link is NOT adjusted frequently.

(( It is easy to switch top links, although inconvenient. ))

I have not used Hydraulink with my King Kutter 48" rotary mower, yet. I expect the Hydraulink will be a good shock absorber.

Neutral when supporting Wallenstein BX42 PTO chipper which is flat on the ground, on its skids, before the PTO is engaged. Transporting chipper on the 3-Pt. is a "dumb" top link application.

When I have more experience I will post a thorough Hydraulink review.

My tentative conclusion is that for what this device costs, $250, and its imperfect factory execution, I should have put the money toward an "regular" hydraulic top link. Tractor has one Kubota (optional) hydraulic port at the rear.

Tractor is a Kubota B3300SU; 33-hp/1,800 pounds.
 

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   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #3  
I went from Standard screw-style top link to Hydraulink to Fit Rite hydraulic from Brian (MtnViewRanch). The Screw type is a pain in the rear, the Hydraulink was okay, but not worth the money.

For everything from ease of attaching implements to carrying my back work platform level, and use of my implements - Rake, Box Blade, Scraper, the hydraulic top link is worth it's cost.
 
   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #4  
I have used a double-pilot check valves cylinder for several hundred hours. In the past have used regular top link as well as non-DPCV cylinders. I much prefer the DPCV cylinder for everything except my rotary cutter. I use a chain on the rotary cutter to allow the rough terrain without damaging the top link. With a DPCV, you know without a thought that adjustments will stay the way you put them.
 
   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #5  
On my two mowers(woods rotary and woods finish), it is built into the linkage to "float". I have a fixed screw-type top link and the mower will still float. I assumed that they all did this, but reading your posts it seems that is not the case. I would think that a dpcv cylinder would work ok for them, right? I have been tossing around the idea of adding auxillary ports to the tractor and was kind of undecided about the cylinder. I am leaning more towards the dpcv cylinder. I may even go with the top n tilt kit from mtviewranch, though I can't remember what kind of cylinder he offers- perhaps either.

Maybe a non-dpcv cylinder with a valve with float position would be advantageous? Besides a mower, is there another reason to want to float? I guess in all reality, getting the hydraulics back there is most of the battle. I can always change my mind in the future and it's only a matter of getting a new cylinder.
 
   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #6  
I have used a screw type for most of my life, I now have a hydraulic top link and I can't for the life of me figure out how I made is to this point without one!:drink: Hydraulic is the way to go, I don't have the double check valve and I think it would be very useful because new or not there is some movement. Never have used a chain or any other type of a floating setup and I personally don't see any need for it, as a matter of fact just the thought of it scares me a lot. Just not the way I way taught how to do things, and you know what they say about an old dog! IMHO only!:confused3:
 
   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #7  
I've recently read through many threads on top-links - the options and advantages. I have pulled together what I read into this single new thread and I am looking for more data - I hope it becomes a useful reference for those considering their options and a source of ideas for those with a hydraulic top-link.

I see 3 basic ways in which a top-link is used:

Fixed - the length is set and the intent is to have it stay at that length when using the attachment. This is the usage of the mechanical screw-type top-link. With hydraulics - a top-link with double-pilot check valves (DPCV) would work the best, a regular cylinder (without DPCV) will have some drift over time but reportedly it is minor.

Float - the length changes based upon the push-pull of the attachment during usage. A mechanical top-link can't float but operators can mimic a float in these situations by replacing the top-link with a chain. With hydraulics, a valve with a float position and a top-link cylinder without DPCV are required.

Adjustable - the length is adjusted during usage by the operator in the seat. This requires a hydraulic top-link (or a very creative hand-crank).


What follows is a list of attachments and how the top-link could best be used. Of course, practically all attachments can be used with a fixed top-link as that is the default standard typically supplied with every tractor -- the methods of usage listed below provide additional advantanges for the situation. (Of course this all just opinion).

Blade (Cutting Edge) Fixed
Blade (Back Side) Float
Boom Pole Adjustable
Bush-Hog Float
Carry-All Adjustable
Disc Harrow Float
Mower Float
Pallet Forks Adjustable
Rototiller Fixed
Snow Blower (Reg.) Fixed
Snow Blower (Drifts) Adjustable

In addition, for hook-up, Float is useful.

That's all I remember from my reading, What about:

Grader/Scaper
Land Plane
Middle-Buster
Rake
Sub-soiler
???
???

How do you use your top-link? What do you recommend against? Why and why not.

When in the field working over the last 50+ yrs, dozens of times a fixed top link has kept my tractor front end on the ground while going up a steep hill that I should not have been on anyway, thus preventing several farm accidents. I am not a fan of flexible unless using one with a light tool on level ground and still, If you hang the front and bottom side of that 3 point implement, the implement may be coming up into your back. Yes, I have done that also. LOL. Ken Sweet
 
   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #8  
Please explain double-pilot check valve cylinder.

Animal, vegetable or mineral?

I try to get smarter about tractor stuff each day.
 
   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #9  
I have used a screw type for most of my life, I now have a hydraulic top link and I can't for the life of me figure out how I made is to this point without one!:drink: Hydraulic is the way to go, I don't have the double check valve and I think it would be very useful because new or not there is some movement. Never have used a chain or any other type of a floating setup and I personally don't see any need for it, as a matter of fact just the thought of it scares me a lot. Just not the way I way taught how to do things, and you know what they say about an old dog! IMHO only!:confused3:

When you say that there is some movement, just how much is "some" ? :confused:
 
   / How do you use your Top-Link: Fixed, Float or Adjustable #10  
I am not a fan of flexible unless using one with a light tool on level ground and still, If you hang the front and bottom side of that 3 point implement, the implement may be coming up into your back. Yes, I have done that also. LOL. Ken Sweet

I agree a chain for a toplink is dangerous.
 
 
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