Loader Don't let this happen to you.

   / Don't let this happen to you. #11  
I check my FEL and wheel bolts frequently.
 
   / Don't let this happen to you. #12  
Mine were locktited in place when new in 2000....still tight today.

I have a rule, always use one of 2 things, either some form of locktite to keep stuff from coming apart or some form of neversieze to allow stuff to come apart. I'm now old enough to be taking stuff apart that was treated my me decades ago and am now reaping the benefits. It's a ton better than taking apart stuff that is even just a few years old that was un-treated. Even with impact wrenches, it's worth doing.
 
   / Don't let this happen to you.
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Ok, yesterday I talked to the shop manager of the local dealership and he said to take one of the bolts to an auto parts store and get a HeliCoil repair kit.

The tractor is in the next town, so I downloaded a manual for the loader and found the 8 frame mounting bolts to be M14 x 1.5 x 40.

O'reilly, had a M14 x 1.5 kit with tap, installation tool and 6 10mm HeliCoils. There is also a thick plastic sleeve which I assume is used to help hold the tap straight when starting it. ?? I'm guessing each bolt hole will take 2 - 3 of the 10mm long coils. The sales guy said he could have more coils here in a day.

I'll try to get to it next week right after Christmas.


James
 
   / Don't let this happen to you. #14  
G'day dont stack helicoils in the hole as the thread section tend to not line up binding up the thread, you can buy longer inserts for something like that ( up to 1" IIRC ) see if your auto parts man can get you the right ones first up. Rule of thumb is that a bolt needs a contact area 125% of its diam for correct clamping force but I tend to go for as long as I can get. Good luck with it and Merry Xmas



Jon
 
   / Don't let this happen to you.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Jon;
I called the auto parts store just now and they can get M14 x 1.5 x 21mm length coils here tomorrow. A box of 6 is about $15 US.

Never used HeliCoils before, and I really appreciate the help. My FIL is bringing the tractor over Monday.

The interesting part... after removing the loader and getting the frame off, will be keeping the drill straight. I have an old Milwaukee 1/2" D-handle drill motor. I know from experience it will wind you up if you aren't careful.

I don't know if I can hold it straight and wobble free while drilling a 9/16" hole in cast iron, so I was thinking of strapping and/or clamping it to a hydraulic lift table/cart thing I have. I'm thinking once I get it shimmed level and immobilized on the table, I can wheel it to the hole, raise the table to the right height, and have at it. Yep, ought to be interesting.

I'll try to take some pictures if'n it works.
 
   / Don't let this happen to you. #16  
john_bud said:
Mine were locktited in place when new in 2000....still tight today.

I have a rule, always use one of 2 things, either some form of locktite to keep stuff from coming apart or some form of neversieze to allow stuff to come apart. I'm now old enough to be taking stuff apart that was treated my me decades ago and am now reaping the benefits. It's a ton better than taking apart stuff that is even just a few years old that was un-treated. Even with impact wrenches, it's worth doing.
Click to expand...

I would locktite lug-nuts on tractors too. I have used the blue lock-tite on hardware and pipe fittings and everything in between for almost 25 years at work, and it seals better than almost everything including Teflon paste and especially Teflon tape. I almost ruined a rear tractor wheel by not torque checking them quickly enough. I had to rethread them and get all new bolts but then I locktited them and they haven't moved in two years of heavy grubbing. Of course I check them now and then but they are always tight. They may be a little harder to get apart if needed in the future, but not all that difficult.
 
   / Don't let this happen to you. #18  
With less than 20 hours on a brand new SCUT, it felt a little wobbly. Looked at the wheels and one lug bolt was completely gone and the other three were backed out almost to falling off, too! One other wheel was very loose as well. The other two wheels were still tight. Check them often, even with Loctite is my suggestion. Wonder if we could wire these???
 
   / Don't let this happen to you. #19  
Loctite softens with a little heat on the head of the bolt. Doesn't take much heat to do this. About 30 seconds with a hand-held propane torch. Quick and easy.
 
   / Don't let this happen to you. #20  
Cast iron will drill pretty easily. Did you get an insert tool for the helicoils? The nicer insert tools will compress the helicoil just a little which helps make it go in easier. Once it's free of the insert tool the helicoil will expand. We use lots of them at work in Aluminum. Any place a bolt needs to be removed we put them in so the threads in the Aluminum don't get damaged. I have used lock-tite to hold helicoils in place but I would not use it on a bolt going into a helicoil. If you do and ever need to remove the bolt you'll most likely have the helicoil try and come out with the bolt.
 
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