Tractor related bonehead move of the month-I'll start

[sixdogs]

So do you need a special paint to airbrush or just normal auto or tractor paint?

 

[sd455dan]

So do you need a special paint to airbrush or just normal auto or tractor paint?

Well the black I used was literally shot out of the can in the picture into a one quart cup until there was enough to fill the cup for the air brush and it was thin enough to spray.. I'm pretty sure professional air brush artists that paint flames and do graphics with quality airbrushes use automotive basecoat urethane which is reduced, it dries really fast, that way they can re-tape or shoot multiple colors on top of each other then they shoot an activated or catalyzed clear over the work

 

[sd455dan]

Thanks everyone, No there's no hardener in the paint, it's just car quest tractor Alkyd enamel thinned with about 1 oz. of naptha, and today it's still shiny but it's not fully cured, 45 degrees in the garage this morning so I'll give it another day. I'm concerned about the ultimate hardness and abrasion resistance, the guys said a lot of painters use the equipment paint and then shoot it with a catalyzed urethane clear, which I have used before and still have enough to shoot it with, also thought I might pull the masking off the decals and seal them in at the same time..

Another update lost some gloss on the color decided to go ahead and clear everything -started with the side panel on the first coat of clear everything looked great, but after waiting for the clear to (flash) the clear bit into the color coat and it started to separate. At this point I can't recommend clearing the color coat of this paint, it's very probable that had this been painted in the summer and more curing time allowed / no problem would have resulted anyway more sanding and repair to get back to where I just was just yesterday, -:confused2: I think this thread is named right

 

[jaotguy]

it depends on the paints you used ...

enamel (with reducer) can go over lacquer ... but not the other way , the thinner in lacquer will dissolve the enamel (unless baked on)
your clear coat will probably do the same to any enamel (found in most spray bombs). you can use water based clears if you want to ...

car enamel ( without hardener) normally takes over 30 days to fully cure by itself ... it skins within the hour, then the VOC's slowly escape thru the hardening surface skin. the thicker the surface becomes, the longer it takes to fully dry.

 

[sd455dan]

it depends on the paints you used ...

enamel (with reducer) can go over lacquer ... but not the other way , the thinner in lacquer will dissolve the enamel (unless baked on)
your clear coat will probably do the same to any enamel (found in most spray bombs). you can use water based clears if you want to ...

car enamel ( without hardener) normally takes over 30 days to fully cure by itself ... it skins within the hour, then the VOC's slowly escape thru the hardening surface skin. the thicker the surface becomes, the longer it takes to fully dry.

Well this was actually catalyzed urethane over enamel .
I have already removed the cleared over enamel- the fact that I could heat it with a heat gun and remove it right down to the urethane primer/surfacer with just a bondo spreader pretty much proves to me that there is no way the equipment enamel was anywhere near fully cured, that being said the guys I get my paint from have at least a couple of autobody shops that routinely use this equipment enamel and clear coat it with this urethane clear. I shot a couple spare test pieces in the enamel, later this summer I'll try shooting it with the clear just to prove to myself whether or not this works, and if the plan is to have a really high gloss sheetmetal on another piece of equipment, it will be the matched urethane basecoat/clearcoat used next time..for now every thing that needed it has been repainted Now to get the sheetmetal back on the tractor..:thumbsup:

 

[MasseyWV]

UPDATE TIME: IT'S BLUE.... (Equipment enamel FORD BLUE) figured this is pretty close to one of the 2 colors that was on it, and my 3000 could use some touch up to, so here we go-View attachment 308013 and if this gloss dies down (never used this type of paint before) in the next 24 hours I'm going to clear it with some catalyzed urethane... now to clean up this messy garage!!

Looks great! :thumbsup:

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Has anyone considered putting a couple of those metal curb feelers on your ROPS as a last second warning system entering or exiting your garage/low barn door?

I suppose you could get all high tech and use one of those range finder warning systems you can retrofit onto cars with too.

 

[jaotguy]

if you are worried about head clearance, it would be too late by the time you stopped..

if you just want position indicators ( front to back and side to side for parking )

the cheaper way is to hang balls on strings from the ceiling.....leave 'em just about eye height when in the seat. .... and drive / park between them.

 

[sd455dan]

The Rhino is finally back together,

 

[DABSGT]

The Rhino is finally back together, <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=308899"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=308900"/>

Looks real nice, good work.

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