Requesting words of wisdom

   / Requesting words of wisdom #1  

BenRich

New member
Joined
Apr 17, 2013
Messages
7
Location
Waxhaw, NC
Tractor
Kubota BX1860
I'm requesting some wise hints/tips from experienced subcompact tractor owners. I've recently purchased a Kubota BX1870 and am expecting its arrival from the dealer possibly next week. I have a few recent hours on my brother-in-law's ancient Iseki and as a teenager I spent several dozens of hours bush-hogging on a Case 930 and an old JD "poppin John". That was back in the '70's.

I did considerable research before deciding on the BX1870 (actually my research was on the BX1860 but I believe the only changes are cosmetic and moving the brake pedal from the right to the left side of the operator deck). The tractor will come with an FEL (LA203), a Land Pride grooming mower (FDR1648) and a 5' Land Pride scraper blade. There will be no mid-mount mower (thus leaving the underside of the tractor exposed).

We live in the Piedmont area of North Carolina on three and a half acres; about half the property is wooded, the other half fields with pasture grass/weeds. I intend to use the tractor for mowing and moderate landscaping.

Herewith some of my questions:

1. With no MMM, would I be smart to get the Bro-Tek rear plate? There will be times I'll be going into low brush.

2. Is the 5' scraper blade sufficient ballast while using the FEL? I'll be using the FEL for carrying dry fill dirt, mulch, gravel, sand and occasional chunks of firewood. I'll also be using it as an occasional hoist (the dealer will be welding a 1/2" chain hook on each upper corner of the bucket); in these instances I envision using it to tug logs out as I'm cutting back on the woods on our property. The scraper blade will be used mainly to pull dirt from one spot to another spot and for leveling.

3. Will the grooming mower perform as an occasional light duty bush-hog? The dealer told me that it would cut rough pasture grass but there is one area (my septic drain field) where I get the seasonal saplings (less than half inch trunk diameter) springing out of the ground.

4. Is there any one (or more) pieces of advise that any of you wished you had been told before you got your tractor and started using it?

I'll be very grateful for any words of wisdom from those of you that have the knowledge and experience I don't have. If anyone asks me a question and I don't respond quickly it's because I'll be outside most of today planting tomatoes, okra, late beets, cucumbers and more green beans. Thanks very much in advance.

Ben
 
   / Requesting words of wisdom #2  
Answers:

1) yes

2) probably

3) probably for what you described, but 2 passes may be needed the first time. But pruning shears will make quick work on those small saplings, thus taking the stress off the mower.

4) keep FEL loads as low to the ground as possible, and travel slowly, with your hand on the FEL joystick to drop it quickly if needed.

Be careful

Read the operators manual several times. Become familiar with every page.

Have fun using your new toy.......er tool :)
 
   / Requesting words of wisdom #3  
I am certainly no expert, but here is my opinion, we got our first BX, a 2200 in 2003 and a BX2660 in 2008; still have both.


1. With no MMM, would I be smart to get the Bro-Tek rear plate? There will be times I'll be going into low brush.
Even with the improved HST fan protection plate added a couple of years ago, I would still go with a protection plate/plates from Bro Tek or Bxpanded. I have Bro Tek, but look at both to see which you prefer.

2. Is the 5' scraper blade sufficient ballast while using the FEL? I'll be using the FEL for carrying dry fill dirt, mulch, gravel, sand and occasional chunks of firewood. I'll also be using it as an occasional hoist (the dealer will be welding a 1/2" chain hook on each upper corner of the bucket); in these instances I envision using it to tug logs out as I'm cutting back on the woods on our property. The scraper blade will be used mainly to pull dirt from one spot to another spot and for leveling.
It depends on how much it weighs, but I suspect it won't be sufficient as mine isn't. Some build a ballast box to add weight I use a box scraper which is heavier than my blade. If you find you need more weight, it is easy to hang something on the box scraper. I suppose you can on the blade, I just prefer the box scraper as I can move much more dirt with it. As to the hooks, I prefer them welded to bucket in line with the loader arms.

3. Will the grooming mower perform as an occasional light duty bush-hog? The dealer told me that it would cut rough pasture grass but there is one area (my septic drain field) where I get the seasonal saplings (less than half inch trunk diameter) springing out of the ground.
There is a difference in "can" and "should", I suspect the RFM will cut what you describe, but I will hold off on recommending it. Maybe someone else can speak to this.

4. Is there any one (or more) pieces of advise that any of you wished you had been told before you got your tractor and started using it?
Not that I can think of, but if I do, I will post back. Oh check all fasteners and your front axle fluid after a few hours of use as they tend to settle in after a bit and needs to be topped off.

JOHNTHOMAS
has a thread on 50 hour maintenance and has owned a bunch of these small tractors, so read some of his old threads and other BX owners. Good luck and enjoy your tractor, these are very tough capable little machines.:thumbsup:
 
   / Requesting words of wisdom #4  
1) You will eventually go into the woods with the tractor. Some kind of protection for the fan is advisable. If you can't fabricate a plate then Bro-Tek works.

2) The dealer should have filled the rear tires with water for ballast. The LA205 FEL will not lift much so water in the tires works well for ballast. You will soon know if ballast is needed if on the first heavy lift you need to go into 4WD to move. As said, always keep a heavy load low just in case. A rear blade does work as ballast but severely limits maneuverability, especially in the woods.

You may want to look into buying a Carry-All to carry ballast on a pallet. Then you can use it to do other jobs as well.

3) A finish mower is just that. More of a lawn maintenance tool or to make a pasture look like a lawn. You will have to go s-l-o-o-o-w in heavy grass. Check Craig's List every now and then to see if you can come up with a 4' used bush hog. It will make things go much faster and you can use the finish mower properly. A bush hog (rotary mower) can also be used in the woods for clearing. The saplings over your septic lines won't have a chance with a bush hog.

4) Post back when you run into a situation where a second opinion may help out. The TBN guys are very helpful and have a wealth of knowledge. And don't forget photos.

You don't mention the tires. Turf tires probably but you may have R1s. The turf tires are going to be an issue if trying to drag logs.

If the dealer puts the chain grab hooks on the ends of the bucket then you are in for trouble. Never pull or lift from one end. It will cause tractor instability and has the potential to tweak the FEL out of alignment. The grab hooks need to be even with, or inside of, the boom arms of the FEL. On my BX2200 I have one on the top center of the bucket and one on the lower back of the bucket. Lifting from those points makes for a stable lift.

Soooo....
A) Have the dealer fill the rear tires.

B) Have the grab hooks welded in the middle. This will require that the top bucket edge be reinforced - I used a couple of feet of 1/2" (or maybe it was 3/4" pipe) welded under the lip. Whatever fits snugly.

EDIT: Darn you TripleR. You slipped in your post ahead of mine and stole my thunder. ;)
 
   / Requesting words of wisdom
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks guys for the excellent responses and advise. (I've come inside for a quick lunch and decided to see if anyone had responded.) I'll talk to the dealer on Monday about the placement of the chain hooks and water in the rear tires. The tires are in fact turf tires; the dealer had suggested those when I told him some of the work would be in the back yard and I would be crossing one side of the front yard while moving fill dirt. I'll look into ordering the Bro-Tek plate as soon as possible... I'd prefer to have that in place before I operate the tractor. Thanks again.

Ben
 
   / Requesting words of wisdom #6  
Your welcome.

If you have any more questions, don't be afraid to ask.

And welcome to TBN
 
   / Requesting words of wisdom #7  
I'm in agreement with what has been said.

Definitely get a skid plate. The Bro-Teks are nice, you can also take a look at the BXpanded.com Under Armor. Easy install on and off if need be.

I wouldn't trust the weight of the scraper blade as ballast, particularly when the loader is full and several feet off the ground. My guess is that blade weighs less than 300lbs.

Let the finish mower be just that, a finish mower; costs too much to be using it as a brush cutter.

Other suggestions: check all nuts and bolts after a few hours of operation. As mentioned, check the front differential fluid after 5 - 10 hours; check all fluids for that matter. Get yourself a bucket hook or two, you'll need it, trust me. You can purchase bolt ons but mine is welded onto the top of the bucket. I do have a brush mower but at times use a chain and BrushGrubber to pull saplings and other brush.
 
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   / Requesting words of wisdom #8  
1. With no MMM, would I be smart to get the Bro-Tek rear plate? There will be times I'll be going into low brush.

2. Is the 5' scraper blade sufficient ballast while using the FEL? I'll be using the FEL for carrying dry fill dirt, mulch, gravel, sand and occasional chunks of firewood. I'll also be using it as an occasional hoist (the dealer will be welding a 1/2" chain hook on each upper corner of the bucket); in these instances I envision using it to tug logs out as I'm cutting back on the woods on our property. The scraper blade will be used mainly to pull dirt from one spot to another spot and for leveling.

3. Will the grooming mower perform as an occasional light duty bush-hog? The dealer told me that it would cut rough pasture grass but there is one area (my septic drain field) where I get the seasonal saplings (less than half inch trunk diameter) springing out of the ground.

4. Is there any one (or more) pieces of advise that any of you wished you had been told before you got your tractor and started using it?

I'll be very grateful for any words of wisdom from those of you that have the knowledge and experience I don't have. If anyone asks me a question and I don't respond quickly it's because I'll be outside most of today planting tomatoes, okra, late beets, cucumbers and more green beans. Thanks very much in advance.

Ben

Welcome to TBN. Remember the proper etiquette here though. We gotta see it to believe it. :)

I would add my vote to what Triple and GW have said. BroTek and BXpanded both have great under-body protection. BroTek's actually comes as 3 parts and covers the whole underside while BXpanded's appears to cover more than BroTek's (if rear only). And BXpanded's can come off easily and quickly. Your choice, either will save your bacon over no "cup" at all. I chose the BroTek because my tractor is older and BXpanded didn't seem to offer one to fit. I only went with the rear plate, but then I added my own protection forward using the mower lift on the rear of a piece of 1/2" inch real plywood (not this osb stuff). It goes forward about 3 inches past where the front drive shaft starts to come down. Some guys reported that they got sticks up into the radiator fan (and that's why BroTek added the 3rd plate). I didn't see myself getting into stuff that wicked, but a small stick won't ever push through my plywood either.

Good advice on the hooks too. Keep them inside and try to use both at once to help keep the balance if lifting. You're pretty far south, but keep in mind that water freezes. Maybe a little washer fluid or RV antifreeze would be in order as well.

I learned to drive on my dad's 51 Model A JD. Then I graduated to a 730 Case. I was replaced when I went to college with a 930 Case, but I still got pretty good hours in on it. Sounds like we had similar upbringing. :) Enjoy that new tractor!

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
   / Requesting words of wisdom #9  
.

2. Is the 5' scraper blade sufficient ballast while using the FEL? I'll be using the FEL for carrying dry fill dirt, mulch, gravel, sand and occasional chunks of firewood. I'll also be using it as an occasional hoist (the dealer will be welding a 1/2" chain hook on each upper corner of the bucket);
I hope you were misquoting the size of the chain hooks. No way in h$ll will you need a 1/2" chain on a BX more likely a 3/16 or even smaller will handle all that little tractor will lift. If for instance you have some 5/16 or 3/8" pull chain, you could put a 3/8" chain hook on and use both but you would be way overkill on the chain and really be limiting your lift by at least 40 lbs on a 20 foot long x 3/8 chain. Hooks should be placed at the corners or rather in line with the lift points of the FEL bucket, and always use both hook so you are equally applying force to both sides. Never pick from on side only to prevent tipping your tractor. Hooking your chain in a V with the bottom of the V being the attachment point of the object lifted and the top of the V being the attachment point on the tractor. Hooking in the middle of your FEL bucket is why you see so many bent lips on the FEL. Before you place one in the middle, put some reinforcement angle or other material across the lip and then you will be OK.
 
   / Requesting words of wisdom #10  
1) You will eventually go into the woods with the tractor. Some kind of protection for the fan is advisable. If you can't fabricate a plate then Bro-Tek works.

2) The dealer should have filled the rear tires with water for ballast. The LA205 FEL will not lift much so water in the tires works well for ballast. You will soon know if ballast is needed if on the first heavy lift you need to go into 4WD to move. As said, always keep a heavy load low just in case. A rear blade does work as ballast but severely limits maneuverability, especially in the woods.

You may want to look into buying a Carry-All to carry ballast on a pallet. Then you can use it to do other jobs as well.

3) A finish mower is just that. More of a lawn maintenance tool or to make a pasture look like a lawn. You will have to go s-l-o-o-o-w in heavy grass. Check Craig's List every now and then to see if you can come up with a 4' used bush hog. It will make things go much faster and you can use the finish mower properly. A bush hog (rotary mower) can also be used in the woods for clearing. The saplings over your septic lines won't have a chance with a bush hog.

4) Post back when you run into a situation where a second opinion may help out. The TBN guys are very helpful and have a wealth of knowledge. And don't forget photos.

You don't mention the tires. Turf tires probably but you may have R1s. The turf tires are going to be an issue if trying to drag logs.

If the dealer puts the chain grab hooks on the ends of the bucket then you are in for trouble. Never pull or lift from one end. It will cause tractor instability and has the potential to tweak the FEL out of alignment. The grab hooks need to be even with, or inside of, the boom arms of the FEL. On my BX2200 I have one on the top center of the bucket and one on the lower back of the bucket. Lifting from those points makes for a stable lift.

Soooo....
A) Have the dealer fill the rear tires.

B) Have the grab hooks welded in the middle. This will require that the top bucket edge be reinforced - I used a couple of feet of 1/2" (or maybe it was 3/4" pipe) welded under the lip. Whatever fits snugly.

EDIT: Darn you TripleR. You slipped in your post ahead of mine and stole my thunder. ;)

You know what they say about great minds nd I left out the part on filled tires, we did that on ours and it sure helps.:thumbsup:
 
 
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