vermeer 206 stump grinder

[bigballer]

Ok. Now we're getting somewhere!
You now know the new starter is good and the engine will turn over when proper voltage is applied to the starter solenoid. Now you have to find out where you are loosing voltage in the starting circuit. This will be why the starter is not engaging with the ignition key.:thumbsup:

So now you will have to verify each point from battery through to the starter solenoid to see where the wiring is faulty.
For me to understand where you're at with this harness tell me exactly what you did replacing things like battery, ignition switch, etc., and why you replaced them. And you will need to use your meter and possibly a test light to see where you have an open in the circuit.
Post back.

we replaced the battery, because it was not charging, the starter because we had it tested and it was not working, and the ignition switch because it seemed like the next logical replacement after we had already swapped the battery and starter.

I tested the wiring harness last night and cannot get any reading out of any of the spades that plug into the ignition switch. will do some more testing today.

 

[Coyote machine]

Are you testing the ignition circuit with the switch installed or removed? Try to locate the power feed wire to the ignition switch, it may be larger diameter than the other wires. Any way to access wiring diagram to the beast?
Is there any evidence of frayed, chewed or otherwise rodent damaged wiring?

 

[bigballer]

Are you testing the ignition circuit with the switch installed or removed? Try to locate the power feed wire to the ignition switch, it may be larger diameter than the other wires. Any way to access wiring diagram to the beast?
Is there any evidence of frayed, chewed or otherwise rodent damaged wiring?

I removed the switch and stuck the pos end of the tester into the slots for of the wiring. there is also an inline fuse between the battery and the switch that I will bypass and replace if needed. no evidence of frayed or chewed wiring at this point. going to spend some more time on it now. and will report further findings. I found a wiring diagram online and am going down to verify it's the same one, was on the kohler site. back in a few..

 

[bigballer]

here is a link to the manual for the engine - http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/TP-2204-B_M18_M20_REVISED5_93.pdf

 

[Coyote machine]

I'd remove the fuse first and test it both visually and with a meter. Then go from there.
Are you saying you are testing just the female connector that the ignition switch connects into, or is it a male wiring connector that plugs into the switch? I'm not clear which you have.
A pic would be helpful if possible.

I looked at the wiring diagram for the ignition system that has the 15 amp fuseable link in it, the other diagram does NOT show a fuse.
It would seem that there are a couple of things that could render a no crank, (no voltage present situation) to the ignition switch. Refer to page: 8-7 top diagram.
1. A blown fuse. 2). An open in the kill switch WHITE wire from the ignition module to ground. 3). A bad {OPTIONAL ITEM} oil sender switch- which is a NO switch, (normally open, closes on sensing oil in the crankcase).

 

[bigballer]

I'd remove the fuse first and test it both visually and with a meter. Then go from there.
Are you saying you are testing just the female connector that the ignition switch connects into, or is it a male wiring connector that plugs into the switch? I'm not clear which you have.
A pic would be helpful if possible.

The diagram in that pdf link is accurate only addition is a wire between the battery ground and the kill switch ground. The kill switch is on the far left in the picture labeled "shutdown". Also attavhed picture of the switch and harness. Tested between pos on battery and the white wire on the harness I only get .4 volts. I expexted this would read 12.4? Am I wrong?

 

[bigballer]

Also tested fuse and its good. And the switch was in the on position from test above

 

[bigballer]

When I flip the kill switch to KILL I get a 12.4 reading between the pos on battery to the white wire at the ignition spade.

 

[Coyote machine]

When I flip the kill switch to KILL I get a 12.4 reading between the pos on battery to the white wire at the ignition spade.

So what do you get if you plug the ignition switch back into the harness, AFTER turning the kill switch off and then to 'kill' once you've connected the harness back up?

 

[bigballer]

So what do you get if you plug the ignition switch back into the harness, AFTER turning the kill switch off and then to 'kill' once you've connected the harness back up?

After thati get 12.4.

If I turn the kill switch to ON



then I get 1.4


This is while the ignition switch is switched to "RUN"