Mowing mowing with the bucket on/off

[RoyJackson]

OK, I'll plan to take the entire FEL off. Taking off is a couple mins -- putting on can be a bit longer.

So for mowing (3 pt), I'm planning to run FEL-free
What about box blading?
Or tilling?
I'm also thinking to get a 5' rear blade for road grading and snow removal. Thoughts?

For mowing, you are better off removing the FEL rather then just the bucket. Removing the bucket only reduces the overall length of the tractor/mower, but raises the tractor's center of gravity. The weight of the FEL frame is above the centerline of the tractor. That bucket, which is pretty heavy, can offset the frame weight if it (the bucket) is kept low when mowing.
By removing the FEL, you keep the tractor's center of gravity low (very desirable!) as well as keeping the overall length low...a win-win in my book.

Since I don't have a box blade or tiller, I'll refrain from commenting on those.

As far as the rear blade for snow removal...I used to use one and a lot of folks do use them. The rear blade works quite well for snow removal...especially on a long straights. Do keep the FEL on as you'll likely need it too.
As far as grading...you'll likely run out of traction before running out of power. Small bites (not too deep) work better...but you can adjust that "bite" as you learn your tractor's capabilities.

 

[RaydaKub]

That bucket, which is pretty heavy, can offset the frame weight if it (the bucket) is kept low when mowing.

Certainly you'd want to keep it low if you keep it on. But my contention is that since the bucket is fairly heavy, you've moved almost the same amount of weight as the bucket off the rear wheels onto the fronts because of the leverage it causes. That will dramatically affect your stability.

 

[coloradotrout]

Did some more mowing with the entire FEL OFF. What a difference. I had very few traction issues in 2WD. That's 180 from what I used to have with the FEL ON. On a few steep slopes, I did have to engage 4WD, but mostly because there was some uneven ground and both rear wheels were not making good ground contact. (Yes, I was going up/down the slope). So from here on, I plan to mow 90% of what I mow with the FEL OFF. The cut quality also appears to be better. As someone noted, the heavily loaded front wheels dig into the soil/grass. Also, with the FEL on, I generally had to run in 4WD, which tore into the grass some also. Now if we'd just get some good rain, and the grass would start growing again, I could really test 'er out. Thanks for all the comments here.

 

[coloradotrout]

As far as the rear blade for snow removal...I used to use one and a lot of folks do use them. The rear blade works quite well for snow removal...especially on a long straights. Do keep the FEL on as you'll likely need it too.
As far as grading...you'll likely run out of traction before running out of power. Small bites (not too deep) work better...but you can adjust that "bite" as you learn your tractor's capabilities.

The 4100 is about 48" wide. Any thoughts on the size of the rear blade?

 

[RoyJackson]

The 4100 is about 48" wide. Any thoughts on the size of the rear blade?

60" blade, so when you angle it for snowplowing, you'll still be more then the width of the tractor.
BTW, there's differing opinion whether you should drive forward when you plow (tractor goes over the snow before the blade hits it) or drive in reverse to push the snow.. Those 3ph arms aren't really made for pushing and you really don't want to hit anything immovable if driving if reverse in a higher gear.
So, when I had a rear blade, I drove forward using both the loader bucket and blade.

 

[coloradotrout]

60" blade, so when you angle it for snowplowing, you'll still be more then the width of the tractor.
BTW, there's differing opinion whether you should drive forward when you plow (tractor goes over the snow before the blade hits it) or drive in reverse to push the snow.. Those 3ph arms aren't really made for pushing and you really don't want to hit anything immovable if driving if reverse in a higher gear.
So, when I had a rear blade, I drove forward using both the loader bucket and blade.

Certainly a lot easier on the neck if I can drive forward. My gravel driveway is about 1/2 mile long. I've been use the FEL to clear snow, but really need that angled blade to make this what it needs to be. I just don't know if I'll get enough traction driving atop the snow.

 

[RoyJackson]

Certainly a lot easier on the neck if I can drive forward. My gravel driveway is about 1/2 mile long. I've been use the FEL to clear snow, but really need that angled blade to make this what it needs to be. I just don't know if I'll get enough traction driving atop the snow.

Use chains on your rear tires...you'll have plenty of traction...

 

[Creamer]

60" blade, so when you angle it for snowplowing, you'll still be more then the width of the tractor.
BTW, there's differing opinion whether you should drive forward when you plow (tractor goes over the snow before the blade hits it) or drive in reverse to push the snow.. Those 3ph arms aren't really made for pushing and you really don't want to hit anything immovable if driving if reverse in a higher gear.
So, when I had a rear blade, I drove forward using both the loader bucket and blade.

I can attest that it is quite a jolt hitting something with the blade pushing backwards but I still do it because sometimes it just works better. Sometimes it is better to go forward using the blade at an angle. Where you are at in Eastern KS you should not have a traction problem. I only have one when the snow gets to deep and I have turf tires on the rear.

 

[Oaktree]

Did some more mowing with the entire FEL OFF. What a difference. I had very few traction issues in 2WD. That's 180 from what I used to have with the FEL ON. On a few steep slopes, I did have to engage 4WD, but mostly because there was some uneven ground and both rear wheels were not making good ground contact. (Yes, I was going up/down the slope). So from here on, I plan to mow 90% of what I mow with the FEL OFF. The cut quality also appears to be better. As someone noted, the heavily loaded front wheels dig into the soil/grass. Also, with the FEL on, I generally had to run in 4WD, which tore into the grass some also. Now if we'd just get some good rain, and the grass would start growing again, I could really test 'er out.

I guess we've been hogging all the rain up here...I've got muddy areas and a small spring this year that have always been bone dry by mid-July. Still kind of humid, but we've finally had 5 or 6 sunny days in a row now...first time since mid-May or so.

I've also noticed a little better cut quality when I mow with the FEL off too, not sure why. The only downside is that going up a slope the front end feels a bit light, but nothing that feels like I'm gonna do a wheelie or anything. Like others have noted, I have to mow around a lot of trees and it's nice not having to worry about the bucket catching on something when I'm backing up.

 

[coloradotrout]

My theory on the 'cut quality better w/o the FEL' is that the FEL bounced me around more, and the smaller dia. tires mashed the grass down more.

Again this is using a 5' pto driven rear discharge finish mower (an old Arts Way that's been retrofitted with front wheels vs the stock 2 rear only that came with it) The cut quality was good enough for me even with the FEL on..

I need to get a brush hog too -- right now this finish mower does double duty in the fescue yard and for weed control in the pasture (where rocks, limbs, etc really are a hazard).