The AC's in my 4440, 310SJ backhoe, and 333E skid steer all blow ice cold. In 100 degree plus temps they will all get so cold I have to turn them down. I wish the AC in pickups was as good. I think it is due to he smaller cab sizes relative to an auto and less volume to cool I don't know but I love the AC's in all my equipment.
Cab owners - How well does your A/C work?
- Thread starter Poopdeck Pappy
- Start date
Kubota 2350
Platinum Member
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- Aug 15, 2009
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- 693
- Location
- Michigan, In The Thumb
- Tractor
- 2016 JD 3046R Cab ...................... Mower: 2016 Scag Tiger Cat II ZTM
I have a John Deere 3046R with a cab, the A/C will run you out of the cab after it runs for 10 to 15 minutes, the heat works just as good in the winter.
I was out just yesterday in sunny 95+ and the cab was very comfortable.
I was out just yesterday in sunny 95+ and the cab was very comfortable.
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
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- Dec 6, 2013
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- Southern Alberta, Canada
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- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
Here are a few hints for those of you who have marginal systems. Clean evaporators and condensers have already been mentioned. I'll mention them again just in case you missed it the first time. It is important. Make sure you clean between the radiator and the condenser as that is a common spot that people miss.
Make sure your refrigerant levels are on the high side instead of just barely enough to do the job. You should really hook up a set of refrigerant gauges but most don't have that capability so a good second best is to feel the largest hose at the compressor. (Watch out for belts etc. when you do this as you do want to keep your fingers.) That pipe going into the A/C compressor should be almost to cold to keep your hand on. On a real humid day you can even have frost on it. This pipe shouldn't be warm at all after running the system for about 5 minutes. The A/C compressor depends on the cool refrigerant coming back from the cab for it's own cooling. If you burn your fingers then you are feeling the small pipe and yes it is going to be hot.
If you can't get the system to cool after going through everything then have an A/C technician or someone qualified drain the R-12 or R-134a and replace it with an alkane refrigerant like Duralcool or Freeze12 or Red Teck or equivalent. These refrigerants use a mixture of the "ane" gasses ( propane, butane, methane and one more that I can't remember the name of) and are considerably more efficient than conventional refrigerants. I often see 50 lbs less pressure on the high side with better cooling after switching.
Make sure your refrigerant levels are on the high side instead of just barely enough to do the job. You should really hook up a set of refrigerant gauges but most don't have that capability so a good second best is to feel the largest hose at the compressor. (Watch out for belts etc. when you do this as you do want to keep your fingers.) That pipe going into the A/C compressor should be almost to cold to keep your hand on. On a real humid day you can even have frost on it. This pipe shouldn't be warm at all after running the system for about 5 minutes. The A/C compressor depends on the cool refrigerant coming back from the cab for it's own cooling. If you burn your fingers then you are feeling the small pipe and yes it is going to be hot.
If you can't get the system to cool after going through everything then have an A/C technician or someone qualified drain the R-12 or R-134a and replace it with an alkane refrigerant like Duralcool or Freeze12 or Red Teck or equivalent. These refrigerants use a mixture of the "ane" gasses ( propane, butane, methane and one more that I can't remember the name of) and are considerably more efficient than conventional refrigerants. I often see 50 lbs less pressure on the high side with better cooling after switching.
My Hoe
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- Oct 31, 2010
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- NYS--Various Parts
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- Kubota B3000HSDCC, BH77, 5' Belly Mower, 6' Hyd. Angle Plow
Glad to hear of your powerful A/C.
Can you post a link to your inside/outside thermometer? I'd be interested in one of those....
Have you ever seen one that also offered Humidity readings?
Thanks, much.
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Maxify55
Gold Member
Just sublime!
The slightest bit of blockage in the screening to the radiator will ruin your day, however.
Kept a sharp eye on the temp gauge.
Popped the hood to find some chaff blocking air flow.
Topped off the overflow tank and went back to work.
I picked up an air gun for clearing under the hood area.
Link:Guardair 75LJ18AA Air Gun Metallic 12 PSI 22 1 2 in L | eBay
That's just the greatest ever at cleaning the dust and debris from the radiator and condenser coils.
I duct tape the end closed for side air only. Works great
I think Ask Tractor Mike had a video on it on YouTube
Yep, found it.
Link: A Handy Way to Clean Your Tractor Radiator - YouTube
The slightest bit of blockage in the screening to the radiator will ruin your day, however.
Kept a sharp eye on the temp gauge.
Popped the hood to find some chaff blocking air flow.
Topped off the overflow tank and went back to work.
I picked up an air gun for clearing under the hood area.
Link:Guardair 75LJ18AA Air Gun Metallic 12 PSI 22 1 2 in L | eBay
That's just the greatest ever at cleaning the dust and debris from the radiator and condenser coils.
I duct tape the end closed for side air only. Works great
I think Ask Tractor Mike had a video on it on YouTube
Yep, found it.
Link: A Handy Way to Clean Your Tractor Radiator - YouTube
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