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  1. #11
    Platinum Member econometrics's Avatar
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    Deere 5075E MFWD OOS w/PR, 540E; Gator 825i

    Default Re: Driving tractor on the highway

    Quote Originally Posted by Guesseral View Post
    Just use German tork! GOOD AN TIGHT YA!
    That would definitely make my German grandparents happy!

  2. #12
    Super Star Member RoyJackson's Avatar
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    Bethel, Vermont
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    John Deere 4400 MFWD, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements

    Default Re: Driving tractor on the highway

    Another thing to consider is how quick the steering is on a tractor...especially if the machine has power steering.
    As tractors require maximum maneuverability for field work, the steering is pretty tight. That's great when one is operating at 3-5 MPH, not so great when one is on the road. Just a bit of input from the driver results in a wobbly feel. At least, that's my experience...
    Roy Jackson

    "Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one."
    -Joseph P. Martino

  3. #13
    Platinum Member
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    Thornville, Ohio
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    No longer Searching. Mahindra 3016 Shuttle

    Default Re: Driving tractor on the highway

    econometrics,

    Definetely go clear around your tractor, looking for loose bolts. Inspect eveything slowly, especially steering linkage. But, the likely cause of wobble/vibrations will be a combination of things. Tractors do not have a suspension, only the tires to soak up bumps. Country roads are not perfectly smooth. You may not notice the same wavy washboard surface in your truck or car because they have shocks and springs. Tractor tires normally are not in perfect balance like a car or truck.

    Had you backed off the trottle, even a small amount, you would probably not noticed the wobble.

  4. #14
    Platinum Member
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    Covington, GA
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    JD 870

    Default Re: Driving tractor on the highway

    Quote Originally Posted by econometrics View Post
    I am going to do that this week, as it is part of the 10 hour service specs in the owner's manual, yes. Good thinking.

    Just need to get a new torque wrench that can ratchet up to 450ftlb!
    What bolts on the tractor that are a part of normal maintenance require 400 ftlb? I know the bush hog usually has some big bolts.

    Ag tires will wobble a bit. If you get one tire zigging and one tire zagging it might even out, or if both are zigging and zagging in harmony then you may feel dis-harmony. My tractor has a top speed of 10 mph. I can feel it wobble but that is the nature of the tires, they are not built to run true laterally like a car tire. You can read all the ways a tire could run true here but the goal of many tractor tires is traction in the field, not highway miles. Tire uniformity - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  5. #15
    Platinum Member econometrics's Avatar
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    Deere 5075E MFWD OOS w/PR, 540E; Gator 825i

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JimRB View Post
    What bolts on the tractor that are a part of normal maintenance require 400 ftlb? I know the bush hog usually has some big bolts. Ag tires will wobble a bit. If you get one tire zigging and one tire zagging it might even out, or if both are zigging and zagging in harmony then you may feel dis-harmony. My tractor has a top speed of 10 mph. I can feel it wobble but that is the nature of the tires, they are not built to run true laterally like a car tire. You can read all the ways a tire could run true here but the goal of many tractor tires is traction in the field, not highway miles. Tire uniformity - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Rear wheel to axle bolts require around 400-450 ftlb per the owner's manual.

    Seems that a little wobble is normal and I don't really have anything to worry about. So that's good!

  6. #16
    Super Star Member RoyJackson's Avatar
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    John Deere 4400 MFWD, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements

    Default Re: Driving tractor on the highway

    Quote Originally Posted by econometrics View Post
    Rear wheel to axle bolts require around 400-450 ftlb per the owner's manual.

    Seems that a little wobble is normal and I don't really have anything to worry about. So that's good!
    Once you torque those rear wheel bolts, I suggest you torque stripe them. Simple process...just use a paint marker and paint a straight line across the fastener on to the adjacent hub surface.
    You can easily see if a wheel bolt is loosening by misalignment of the stripe.
    Roy Jackson

    "Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one."
    -Joseph P. Martino

  7. #17
    Platinum Member econometrics's Avatar
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    Deere 5075E MFWD OOS w/PR, 540E; Gator 825i

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoyJackson View Post
    Once you torque those rear wheel bolts, I suggest you torque stripe them. Simple process...just use a paint marker and paint a straight line across the fastener on to the adjacent hub surface. You can easily see if a wheel bolt is loosening by misalignment of the stripe.
    Good advice. That's what the dealer did for me when they delivered it, and I can already see that a few of them have come a little loose.

    I torqued the MFWD wheels to spec last night and they were all snug.

    Just need a bigger socket to start on those rears. Anyone know what size socket the rear bolt is on the 5000E JD's with 16.9x28s?

    I think 26mm?

  8. #18
    Super Star Member RoyJackson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Driving tractor on the highway

    Quote Originally Posted by econometrics View Post
    Good advice. That's what the dealer did for me when they delivered it, and I can already see that a few of them have come a little loose.

    I torqued the MFWD wheels to spec last night and they were all snug.

    Just need a bigger socket to start on those rears. Anyone know what size socket the rear bolt is on the 5000E JD's with 16.9x28s?

    I think 26mm?
    Don't guess...ask your dealer.
    By the way, it's better to use a 6 point socket on high torque applications. Less chance of slippage. I'd also suggest using a socket made for impact guns.
    Roy Jackson

    "Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one."
    -Joseph P. Martino

  9. #19
    Platinum Member econometrics's Avatar
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    Deere 5075E MFWD OOS w/PR, 540E; Gator 825i

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoyJackson View Post
    Don't guess...ask your dealer. By the way, it's better to use a 6 point socket on high torque applications. Less chance of slippage. I'd also suggest using a socket made for impact guns.
    Pretty sure it's 26mm. The fronts are 22mm.

    Yeah, 6pt impact sockets are what I have. Just nothing bigger than 24mm.

  10. #20
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
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    Bismarck Arkansas
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    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Driving tractor on the highway

    I have driven some pretty big tractors on the highway at speeds of 25+ MPH and never had a wobble or vibration as you describe. You will feel some vibration with the tractor tire lugs impacting the hard pavement but it will be constant pitch not up and down. You can lessen the feeling by lowering the tire pressure, likely the tractor was shipped with max pressure in all tires. My LS had 25 PSI in the rear when I got it and I lowered it to 12 and it gets much better traction now. I only lowered the fronts about 5 PSI as I use the loader heavily a lot so I need more air there.
    The rims should not wobble unless the bolts are very loose or the rim is bent. The fronts should be towed in an inch or more toward the front (check your owners manual for correct amount and how to adjust, but with a new tractor it should still be ok. Correct toe in will help in turns and stability on the road.
    Again as others have said, check every bolt on the tractor for tightness especially lug bolts and FEL mount bolts if you have a FEL.

    I use the German Method -Guttentite myself which at my age, I don't worry so much about over torque. The rear tires I use my 3/4" drive impact to get them tight. Smaller stuff, I just put my calibrated muscles to work with as much as I think it needs
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

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