318 electrical troubles/ posted this earlier on parts and repairs

[wooden]

I posted this this morning on parts / repairs but thinks I may get an answer here quicker. Really need info on how the regulator rectifier is wired from the harness and which terminals does the Stator wires go to. Not sure where to turn from there.
Help!!!


earlier
JD 318 problem
No spark!! Help !! Seemed to have a run and stop issue for a little while , where the unit would just shut down, but later it will re start and run
as it should. A while back it went down and would not re start. I changed the coil and that solved the problem for a while. About 4 weeks ago it started
doing the on again off again trick, so I started replacing parts. Pulled the engine and replaced the stator, New control, 25 amp breaker, and the
condenser. Put it all back together yesterday and the **** thing will not start. Still no spark!!! I am not sure I plugged the stator into the regulator correctly
so If there is anyone here with a 318 that could post a pic of that regulator, The plug from the harness is worn and may have to be cut out and jumped, so I need to be sure where the stator wires go , and where the red lead from the harness connects to the regulator. There is an AC marking on both sides and a B+ in the middle. What am I doing wrong?? HELLLLLLLPPP!!

Wooden

 

[travlitt]

See if this will help


https://www.google.com/search?q=jd+...bG4_esASKioLQCw&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1092&bih=519

 

[wooden]

Thanks travlitt. will see if I can find what I am looking for there . Basically I just need to know which connectors the black wires from the stator go to on the regulator. There is a double terminal labeled AC and B+ , and an individul terminal labeled AC. Just not sure how to re connect then properly, or if I already did. I have one lead on the single AC and and the other on the B+ or middle connector. Hope I am correct.

 

[JerryK]

On my 420 [ 20hp Onan ] which shares the same elec print as your 318 [ depending on the year/serial # of your tractor ]... I have three terminals on my solid state regulator. The two wires coming in with the A/C go to the outer two terminals, and the center tab is for the B+ wire going to the battery/etc.

 

[wooden]

Thanks Jerry. Seems I had it right, and now I am out of ideas, I even changed the rectifier today because I had a new one sitting around. still no spark. Only thing left would be the controll module behind the barrery box, which is responsible for shutting down the tractor if you step out of the seat . Not sure how to test it either so I;ll look for a used one on Ebay . Not afraid to turn wrinches but I am no machenic, so here I sit with an 800 lb paper weight!!

 

[JerryK]

I assumate that you have already changed the module behind the flywheel that fires the coil. That is what usually goes bad on these things. Mine would start fine, run ten minutes. Then quit. Let it cool down, and repeat. That black box circuit control board thing makes my head ache each time I look at it, and I was an electrician/supportably electronics 'spert in a past life.... Good luck...!!!!

 

[wooden]

Jerry that's where the trouble started. Tractor would run just fine for 5 to 10 minutes and suddenly quit. go back to it a little later and the thing ran just fine. Then a few days later it ran and shut down a few times and then stopped altogether. Yes I did change the module that signals the coil, to the cost of $185.00 plus shipping, a new stator, new oil low oil sensor , new 25 amp breaker, and still no spark. Next I'll bang my head against a concrete wall to see if it helps!! just can't figure!!

I assumate that you have already changed the module behind the flywheel that fires the coil. That is what usually goes bad on these things. Mine would start fine, run ten minutes. Then quit. Let it cool down, and repeat. That black box circuit control board thing makes my head ache each time I look at it, and I was an electrician/supportably electronics 'spert in a past life.... Good luck...!!!!

 

[JerryK]

You could have got a bad 'new' module... or maybe the coil is opening up. I've seen that before years ago. How about a shiny new motor....??? Northern amongst others used to sell drop in replacements. Nice V-twin OHV.. quiet and easy on gas ... My Onan has seen a lot of hours... now if I was only to come into some money...... maybe some type of forum group would take up a collection...

Also, you sure you don't have carb or fuel filter problems? I put a larger generic fuel filter on mine and it would somehow get air into it and motor would quit. Went back to a little tiny filter, and problem went away. If there is any blockage in the fuel line from the tank to the carb.. it will run a bit then stop. Whilst it is stopped, the line will refill [probably not refill, but get back to the fuel line being full of fuel all the way back to the tank at atmospheric pressure.. ]. I had this happen to a 1976 Dodge Power wagon that had it's tank switching valve stuck inbetween tanks. Truck would run down the road near a mile, then quit. Wait ten minutes, then go another mile...