hazmat
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2002
- Messages
- 4,051
- Location
- West Newbury, MA & Harrison, ME
- Tractor
- Kubota L5460HSTC
Rookies with FEL\'s READ THIS - Tractor Ballast 101
I seem to be reading alot about unstable tractors/rear ballast/loaded tires lately. I won't hyperlink the threads to protect the innocent, but what I've been reading concerns me.
I've decided to outline a simple three step procedure to help those of you new to tractoring, use your FEL safely. After all I'm just past my rookie year myself.
Step 1. Read the FEL & Tractor Manuals! In most cases it (they) will clearly state how much tire & or three point hitch weight is required to safely operate the FEL. It doesn't matter if it is fluid filled tires or rear weights - The real farmers can study what works best regarding traction & compaction in the fields. For the majority here who are weekend warriors, it ain't going to make a difference - It comes down to personal preference, so long as you do it, or compensate for not loadin/weighting the rear tires by using the proper amount (typically several hundred pounds) on the three point hitch.
As an example. My TC18 which weighs 1,600# empty and has a loader that weighs 600# empty. The loader has a capacity of 600#. The manual recommends Loading the rear tires or rear tire weights (101# each) plus weight on the three point hitch. They go on to state that the tractor, with empty loader, should weigh at least 2,000# at the rear axle with the loader in carry position.
Assuming that the tractor empty probably has 1,000# on the rear + 600# on the front. You add most of the 600# loader to the front of the tractor. This requires a 1,000# additional weight on the rear end! The good news is that weight on the three point hitch counts about 1.5 times due to the moment effect. So, my loaded tires add ~400#, requiring another 400 # (400*1.5=600) on the three point hitch.
If I didn't load the tires (my turfs aren't loaded only the R4s), I'd need to add ~700# to the three point hitch. There aren't too many implements sized for an 18HP tractor that weigh that much. I happen to have a 5' aerator that weighs 350# + 560# ballast (concrete blocks) for a grand total of 910#. The aerator is a bit unwieldy, so I'm considering getting/building a ballast box to use when the turfs are on the machine.
Step 2. Insist that your dealer demonstrate how to properly use the machine. Specifically ask for some education regarding ballasting the tractor.
Step 3. Recognize that if you don't follow what the manual & dealer tell you to do, you are taking a risk. As you become more experienced, you may feel comfortable not using the full ballast for some tasks. Example, I use my FEL to pick up apple drops. Since I am using the FEL at far less than it's rated capacity, I feel comfortable relying on just the loaded tires for ballast. As you get more seat time in, your ability to calculate the risk goes up.
I'm getting off my soapbox now. Safe tractoring to all.
I seem to be reading alot about unstable tractors/rear ballast/loaded tires lately. I won't hyperlink the threads to protect the innocent, but what I've been reading concerns me.
I've decided to outline a simple three step procedure to help those of you new to tractoring, use your FEL safely. After all I'm just past my rookie year myself.
Step 1. Read the FEL & Tractor Manuals! In most cases it (they) will clearly state how much tire & or three point hitch weight is required to safely operate the FEL. It doesn't matter if it is fluid filled tires or rear weights - The real farmers can study what works best regarding traction & compaction in the fields. For the majority here who are weekend warriors, it ain't going to make a difference - It comes down to personal preference, so long as you do it, or compensate for not loadin/weighting the rear tires by using the proper amount (typically several hundred pounds) on the three point hitch.
As an example. My TC18 which weighs 1,600# empty and has a loader that weighs 600# empty. The loader has a capacity of 600#. The manual recommends Loading the rear tires or rear tire weights (101# each) plus weight on the three point hitch. They go on to state that the tractor, with empty loader, should weigh at least 2,000# at the rear axle with the loader in carry position.
Assuming that the tractor empty probably has 1,000# on the rear + 600# on the front. You add most of the 600# loader to the front of the tractor. This requires a 1,000# additional weight on the rear end! The good news is that weight on the three point hitch counts about 1.5 times due to the moment effect. So, my loaded tires add ~400#, requiring another 400 # (400*1.5=600) on the three point hitch.
If I didn't load the tires (my turfs aren't loaded only the R4s), I'd need to add ~700# to the three point hitch. There aren't too many implements sized for an 18HP tractor that weigh that much. I happen to have a 5' aerator that weighs 350# + 560# ballast (concrete blocks) for a grand total of 910#. The aerator is a bit unwieldy, so I'm considering getting/building a ballast box to use when the turfs are on the machine.
Step 2. Insist that your dealer demonstrate how to properly use the machine. Specifically ask for some education regarding ballasting the tractor.
Step 3. Recognize that if you don't follow what the manual & dealer tell you to do, you are taking a risk. As you become more experienced, you may feel comfortable not using the full ballast for some tasks. Example, I use my FEL to pick up apple drops. Since I am using the FEL at far less than it's rated capacity, I feel comfortable relying on just the loaded tires for ballast. As you get more seat time in, your ability to calculate the risk goes up.
I'm getting off my soapbox now. Safe tractoring to all.
