Rear Remote Control Valve/s on N.H. TC40D?

[Tractorganic]

What would I gain by getting Rear Remote Control Valve/s on new 40D? Dealer can't give me any examples of attachment I might need that don't require more hydraulic gpms than 40D offers. I'm getting 17LA FEL w/ Quick Attach System, pallet forks, 72" bucket. Wish list includes: skidder winch, tree spade/transplanter, chipper, snow plow, rotary cutter for brush. I was going for Mid PTO but seems no need.

 

[AndyMA]

If I was you I'd get at least one. In addition to the 2 for loader operation I have 1 rear on my 2120 and 2 rear on my TN. I use them to power a wood splitter, front grapple, offset and rotate a rear blade and york rake, power the feed on my chipper and any other number of things. The hydraulics on you TC40 would be capable of doing all these things also.

Also if you ever want the TNT top link you'd need a a rear remote. Besides it's much easier to swallow the the cost when it is bundled with the tractor.

Andy

 

[Larry_Van_Horn]

I just got the same tractor you have and got the rear remote. In the future it may power a log splitter, but right now I use a hydraulic toplink and find it much preferred to the manual particularly when using ground engaging equipment when you want to adjust the angle of attack - think boxblade.
Larry

 

[Tractorganic]

Thanks; re/hydraulic top link for ground engage, will check it out. Am considering rotary spader, subsoiler, and/or some sort of chisel plow. Many attachments I asked dealer about he said need more gpms so maybe I need a hydraulic boost when the warranty is up and I can customize?

 

[DocHeb]

*skidder winch - Some winches are hydraulic - if you are making your own you could get a 12000 lb winch that would run on 1500 psi @ 4 gpm.

*tree spade/transplanter - hydraulic top link would be great to help get the proper positioning of this

*chipper - If your use the tractor's hydraulics you will be able to use a hydraulic feed chipper, but not have to buy a version that includes a separate hydraulic power unit.

*snow plow - how about a snow thrower with hydraulic chute control? If your bio was filled in I'd know if you lived in a high snow area. If you end up with just a rear blade a hydraulic top link will help get the perfect attack angle for the blade. A front snow plow could be even more useful when hydraulic angle control is available.

*rotary cutter for brush - use the hydraulic top link to tilt the rotary cutter into your ditches and cut on inclines.

*subsoiler - hydraulic toplink is excellent for getting proper attack angle.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifThe above attachments will run ~$22,000 - is the $650 for three remotes a limiting step? The rear remotes will fill up those slots on that right fender just perfectly, and the factory kit is looks great from the back!/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif The installation of the rear remotes require removal of the right rear tire.

Other ideas:

*Run hoses from the rear to the QuickTach front end, and open up a whole world of skidsteer attachments (at least the lower gpm volume attachments).

*Rear blade - made versatile by having adjustable angle and tilt from installing cylinders to control the blade.

*log splitter - as mentioned above.

 

[Tractorganic]

Thanks Doc and all, I'll go fill the Bio next soons as I figure out how (new member + rookie closing on first tractor not including 5 yrs wrestling my BCS 850 2 wheeler on slopes). I really want to avoid the "would have if I only knew" stuff cuz just to buy this Boomer I have to get in line for set up time at dealers' shop. He wants $700 for each Valve w/+hoses. I'm getting Quik Attach on FEL so I'm keen on skid type attachments to do jobs better and save my aching back.

 

[DocHeb]

List price for rear remotes (parts and dealer installation) from New Holland are $253 for the first and $213 for the second and third rear remotes. Reference numbers are 710366036 for the first valve, 718334026 for the second, and 719339026 for the third valve. See Minnesota DOT Contract Specs for TC40D, and scroll down to "Dealer Installed Attachments". If your dealer is charging $700 per remote something is wrong. Does that $700 include a cylinder for the top link? If so, it can be done much cheaper aftermarket. If you do a search for Top-n-Tilt on this forum you will see a multitude of posts with suggestions.

 

[jinman]

The remote valves for your tractor come as a complete kit. The first valve is more expensive because it is a little more complex, but the others just bolt on. All lines to the remote quick connects are rigid lines (no hoses) and included in the kit, so I'm thinking your dealer isn't too familiar with your setup. He's probably thinking of a TN series tractor or larger. I think many folks will tell you to get the remotes no matter what color tractor they own, but you might get more specific feedback if you posted this question in the New Holland Owning/Operating forum. DocHeb has made plenty of arguments for getting the remotes. I got one on my tractor when I bought it and this December when it's paid off, I'll put two more on it right away. The other thing you will surely want is a toothbar for your loader. As one member described it, "It's like putting your loader on steriods."