When to replace lower link pins?

[ENC]

Basically my question is just that. Some of my cat 1 pins are becoming quite bent. Some were like that when I bought implements. But recently my box blade the has removable pins are getting fairly bent. My rotary cutter came with bolt on pins that were so bent, I don't know how they were able to hook to the drawbars.

When do you replace pins? When they make hooking up difficult? When they look deformed? When they break?

Are certain pins better than others?

Am I doing something wrong to cause bent pins when I don't believe I am abusing equipment? I have inadvertently caught an unseen stump or root but I don't make a habit of it.

 

[jenkinsph]

I don't have to change pins often now because most of the implements that are heavy have clevis hitches. I will say that I think the pins have improved over the years because it isn't a big problem now.

To answer your question I would change them when needed preferably before they break and might damage the tractor or implement. Life is too short to fight bent pins, if they break and cause an implement to cut up a tire it will cost a lot more money.

 

[TomSeller]

Basically my question is just that. Some of my cat 1 pins are becoming quite bent. Some were like that when I bought implements. But recently my box blade the has removable pins are getting fairly bent. My rotary cutter came with bolt on pins that were so bent, I don't know how they were able to hook to the drawbars.

When do you replace pins? When they make hooking up difficult? When they look deformed? When they break?

Are certain pins better than others?

Am I doing something wrong to cause bent pins when I don't believe I am abusing equipment? I have inadvertently caught an unseen stump or root but I don't make a habit of it.

Interesting. I don't have any bent pins, never have. I choose my attachments so that they have clevis pins if if they are the heavy pulling type (i.e. box blade). On other equipment that has the cantilevered pins, I am very careful to keep the pulling impact down (not hit things). Another thing that may be in play here is the manufacturer of the implement. I do stay with name brands, I figure they have better steel.

 

[silvertramp]

I just replaced the bent pins on my bush hog. It made hook up much easier.

 

[gwdixon]

The most recent pins (yellow coated, zinc?) seem to be more stout than older ones, and perhaps Grade 8.

The same with the implement frames. Make sure the older frames are not bent and contributing or causing the pins to lose alignment. A little welding reinforcement can work wonders.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If pins are bent even slightly, it is time to replace them as they are pretty cheap. If you have a heavy implement that is constantly bending the single pin, you should look at welding on some side plates to make it a clevis type connection which will eliminate the bending pin, but may cause something else to break, like the 3 PH lift arm, if you are consistently hitting obstacles hard enough to bend the straight pins.
The other thing is, do you have the right size pins for your tractor. Don't use Cat I pins on a Cat II tractor by adapting them with a sleeve, switch them out with the correct size.

 

[TomSeller]

If pins are bent even slightly, it is time to replace them as they are pretty cheap. If you have a heavy implement that is constantly bending the single pin, you should look at welding on some side plates to make it a clevis type connection which will eliminate the bending pin, but may cause something else to break, like the 3 PH lift arm, if you are consistently hitting obstacles hard enough to bend the straight pins.
The other thing is, do you have the right size pins for your tractor. Don't use Cat I pins on a Cat II tractor by adapting them with a sleeve, switch them out with the correct size.

Good points. I also use fender washers to crowd the arms close to the implement so there is less torque to the frame. It also makes the implement more stable on side to side movement. I put the arm on, then fender washers, then the linchpin in the hole.

 

[Gregster613]

ENC, Good question and may I please jump in with another one? I, too, need to replace some pins because with my new Quick hitch, I found that several of my attachments have combination Cat 0/1 pins in them that are to short on the lynch pin ends, by about 1/4" - 1/2". Now, when I start looking at pins...almost all say "usable length" 1-3/4" "overall length 5-1/2"...I can figure out what they mean by overall length, but what is meant by the term "usable length"? Is that the end with the lynch pin? Or is it the nut & bolt end?
I need my lynch pin ends to be approx 2&1/2" - 2&3/4" in length from the small collar on the lynch pin end of the pin. It seems simple enough but I'm having a hard time determining via computer which pins to order. This is the type of purchase that I like to just go to the store with old pin in hand and "see" what I'm getting. I won't have a TSC store here in Ramona open until sometime in Sept. Glad it's coming, but want pins now - don't want to wait.
ASC has Item #28588 that looks like it might be what I need but -- it's usable length is only 1&3/4 inch?? I hate to buy sight unseen because if it's not right then I need to pay for return shipping. I could use some help in understanding terms also. Sorry to butt into your thread but same category of question.
Thanks, Greg