Wheel spacers or weights for slopes?

   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes? #1  

number9L

Gold Member
Joined
May 13, 2013
Messages
260
Location
Georgetown, KY
Tractor
Kubota L3800
So, I've got a Kubota L3800, R1's set out all the way, filled and already have 3" spacers. Total rear width is 68" measured at outside of tread.

It does pretty good mowing on the side slopes (can't go up and down all the time, plus it causes ruts) but I need a little more stability. Slopes I mow now get up around 25* in a spot or two that I've just done a couple times side ways. It crab walks at times now.

I recently had some dozer work done and this spring I will have a metric crap ton of slope mowing to do.
work_zpsb5cdea39.jpg


I don't want to trade my tractor off for another one - my luck it would be less stable than this one if I did.

I've seen mention in "slope threads" of needed a squat ratio of 3.5 or better for good slope stability. (track width / axle centerline height)
With my 68" track width / 20.5" axle CL height I am at 3.31. Going with 5" spacers would get me to 3.51.

I am thinking of either adding wheel weights or maybe going to 5" spacers on each side. Which would be the better choice for added slope stability?

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   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes? #2  
I can't answer your question but, I would personally be afraid to mow that slope sideways,
maybe a smaller , wider lawn tractor for that sort of slope, I don't know.
 
   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes? #3  
There are some places that just should not be mowed. Ask yourself if this is one of those places. Plant a line of trees and leave it alone.
 
   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes? #5  
My back yard has some slope that I mow sideways. The wheel weights make the tractor pretty stable.
 
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   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes? #6  
Th cheapest would be to add another couple inches on each side, then try it out. You can always add a couple hundred pounds later on the rears with cast iron.
 
   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes? #7  
It does pretty good mowing on the side slopes (can't go up and down all the time, plus it causes ruts) but I need a little more stability. Slopes I mow now get up around 25* in a spot or two that I've just done a couple times side ways. It crab walks at times now.
work_zpsb5cdea39.jpg
Crabwalking or slipping of the tires down hill is a good sign that you are pretty close to maximum slope to mow sideways. 25 degrees is just a about halve way to the tipping point of the tractor while setting still but it doesn't take much of a bump to help one tip while moving even at 25 degrees.
Mow up and down slope as much as possible and don't try to mow when the grass is wet. If mowing side slope, go slower than normal speed till you are sure that there is no ruts or bumps that might cause a tipping situation.
I think you are plenty wide for mowing. Per your photo, the area around they boat close to the tree line looks to be the steepest part, so be careful mowing that. The bare ground in the back ground looks to be a fairly gentle slope that shouldn't be a problem mowing in any direction. But again, if the ground is soft and the grass wet, traction is going to be a problem regardless of what you do.
Regarding rutting: You really don't need to be mowing if the ground is really soft if that is causing rutting, just let it dry out a bit. I see you have R1 tires so you cant get any better traction than that.

If all else fails, resort to a good wide front mount mower with 4 WD like the Kubota's or Toro's to mow those hills.
 
   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes? #8  
So, I've got a Kubota L3800, R1's set out all the way, filled and already have 3" spacers. Total rear width is 68" measured at outside of tread.

It does pretty good mowing on the side slopes (can't go up and down all the time, plus it causes ruts) but I need a little more stability. Slopes I mow now get up around 25* in a spot or two that I've just done a couple times side ways. It crab walks at times now.

I recently had some dozer work done and this spring I will have a metric crap ton of slope mowing to do.
work_zpsb5cdea39.jpg


...
NICE! ... Since youre already ballasted I would look toward the extra width. You probably have plenty of traction with the R1s. But with a narrow track, transfer of weight to the downhill wheel can be extreme and contribute to rutting. Wider would limit this while providing more safety.
,,,,Also you might want to tailor your tire pressure and ballast quantity. I find fairly soft but with a high % fill to work well to limit body roll while providing good traction. I use about 90% fill and eyeball squat to adjust pressure. I guessing 12 or 15 psi. It will vary with specifics of tire size and tractor weight.
larry
 
   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I currently mow all the green side slope and it does fine. There is an area between the trees on the pond bank that you can see dirt - this is where backing up the hill to mow causes the tires to pull the grass lose from the dirt. The tree on the pond bank that is inline with the barn in the pic is the worst part. The ground swells out around the root ball to about 25* when crossing it. That's where it crabs the most.

All the fresh dirt was the dozer work and during the whole time I was stressing to my Dad and Uncle (running the dozer and excavator) that I needed a nice grade all the way around the hill. We moved a LOT of dirt over a week, day light til dark with a Cat D6T and the excavator to get it looking like it does now. There are still areas on the new dirt that are steeper than I'd like but that's as good a slope as they could get it and keep a good overall profile. I haven't been on it with the tractor yet as I am trying to get grass to grow before the first frost so I don't know yet how the tractor will do on it.

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   / Wheel spacers or weights for slopes? #10  
Yeah, AGs move little chunks of sod when theyre pulling appreciably. Probably a little worse in reverse. Working side to side should alleviate it if you can get the stability to manage it. ... What type of mower are you using? Have you considered getting a flail mower.? You can get those with a mount that allows running them offset to the side. We have one that shifts from center to side hydraulically. Could be handy in your situation.
,,,,A SCUT with belly mower would probably be ideal tho. I mow up to 30* with our BX1500. It has AGs but doesnt mark the ground due its comparatively light weight
larry
 
 
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