mrutkaus
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2004
- Messages
- 976
- Location
- 15 mi. N. of Winchester VA
- Tractor
- Kioti CK30HST, Kubota BX-1500,
I have found you can play with the draft and the fuel supply on a non-electric pot/bowl type diesel/kerosene heater and seemingly increase its efficiency substantially under certain draft conditions.
The proven theory behind this (applies just as much to pot type as atomizing oil heaters) is increasing the heated mass temperature and decreasing the stack (flue/chimney) temperature.
You can do this by varying the design draft conditions of the unit if your chimney/draft allows it.
You decrease the draft intensity (the speed at which fire fumes move up the chimney) by opening the draft as much as possible, even more (make something to increase air flow up the chimney, not thru the fire.
For example if there is a flap draft control on the oil heater, increase the weights or use some other means to keep it open more. this certainly cools the stack temperature because you're supplying room air to the stack, and may, depending on the design of your heater/stove, allow fire intensity and heat output to rise (because the fuel air mixture is not being carried up the stack so fast.
I use a non contact infrared thermometer to measure the temperatures. be sure to measure the same spot all the time as textures and colors in the area the LED hits can be of different reflectivity, giving different temperature readings.
You'd want to have a carbon monoxide monitor around and you have to perhaps stop this in windy conditions as wind might blow combustion gases including carbon monoxide back into the room.
If you do not have sufficient draft in the chimney design you are using, you cannot do this as you probably need all the draft you can get to go thru the fire and make complete combustion. In my case I still have an almost perfect blue flame after adjustment under normal wind conditions. If I put in too much room air up the chimney I start to get a yellow or orangy, smokey fire, which is bad. So I don't do that anymore.
I've had a stack temp decrease of 80 degrees and a stovetop temperature increase of 60 degrees or more. There are charts around to figure this out, but it's probably around a 3% or more increase in heat output for the same amount of fuel. Some charts are here: http://www.ncoilheat.org/publications/OILClassManual2009.pdf
If you have a way of measuring Carbon dioxide you can probably do better than I can, the theory is in the above document.
Of course be advised I haven't the slightest idea of what I am writing about, this is all a fantasy short story for your entertainment only and do not try this at home.
Mike
The proven theory behind this (applies just as much to pot type as atomizing oil heaters) is increasing the heated mass temperature and decreasing the stack (flue/chimney) temperature.
You can do this by varying the design draft conditions of the unit if your chimney/draft allows it.
You decrease the draft intensity (the speed at which fire fumes move up the chimney) by opening the draft as much as possible, even more (make something to increase air flow up the chimney, not thru the fire.
For example if there is a flap draft control on the oil heater, increase the weights or use some other means to keep it open more. this certainly cools the stack temperature because you're supplying room air to the stack, and may, depending on the design of your heater/stove, allow fire intensity and heat output to rise (because the fuel air mixture is not being carried up the stack so fast.
I use a non contact infrared thermometer to measure the temperatures. be sure to measure the same spot all the time as textures and colors in the area the LED hits can be of different reflectivity, giving different temperature readings.
You'd want to have a carbon monoxide monitor around and you have to perhaps stop this in windy conditions as wind might blow combustion gases including carbon monoxide back into the room.
If you do not have sufficient draft in the chimney design you are using, you cannot do this as you probably need all the draft you can get to go thru the fire and make complete combustion. In my case I still have an almost perfect blue flame after adjustment under normal wind conditions. If I put in too much room air up the chimney I start to get a yellow or orangy, smokey fire, which is bad. So I don't do that anymore.
I've had a stack temp decrease of 80 degrees and a stovetop temperature increase of 60 degrees or more. There are charts around to figure this out, but it's probably around a 3% or more increase in heat output for the same amount of fuel. Some charts are here: http://www.ncoilheat.org/publications/OILClassManual2009.pdf
If you have a way of measuring Carbon dioxide you can probably do better than I can, the theory is in the above document.
Of course be advised I haven't the slightest idea of what I am writing about, this is all a fantasy short story for your entertainment only and do not try this at home.
Mike
