How do you warm your hydraulics

   / How do you warm your hydraulics #1  

kco

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
1,191
Location
Armstrong, BC
Tractor
Kioti DK35 SE HST (2011)
Rather than divert the thread about block heaters shown here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...enefits-block-heater-even-if.html#post3985505

I'll start this thread.

I use an engine block heater around 32F/0C or below. I then let the tractor warm for about 15 minutes or until I see the temperature gauge starting to move.

What about warming the hydraulic oil, particularly with HST transmissions? You can often tell it is still not fully warm. Before moving I exercise the hydraulics by slowly lifting the snowblower a few times and by locking the bucket at full curl. But not fully locked so it is not straining. Is this a good idea? What do others do?
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #2  
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This chart has served me well.
Dave M7040
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #3  
Deere recommends turning the steering wheel to the lock for approx 2 mins if I remember correctly. I think it'll dead head in the pump and build heat to warm the fluid faster

Brett
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #4  
On HST transmissions the charge pump helps heat the oil since it it always dumping flow across the relief valve.

Type of oil (viscosity) used will also make a difference in cold weather operation.

Rule of thumb I have used is that if the system is making growling noises you are probably doing damage to some component usually the pump from cavitation.

Like DaveM posted: Do not run tractor at full load until warmed up.. I.e. no growling noises
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #5  
I start the tractor and let it fast idle (about 1400 rpm) for a little bit (time depends on temp) then raise/łower/dump/curl the loader a few times, and then shift the trans to neutral and apply about half the hst pedal forward. Just what I do.
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #6  
I have used a torpedo heater many times to pre warm up the whole tractor before starting. Engine and hydraulics. Place torpedo heater about 6 to 8 ft away from front right corner of tractor so warm air blows under engine and rear of tractor. Do this for about an hour and all of tractor gets warm. Tractor is in an unheated shed when I do this. I like reaping many benefits from running just one heater. Once tractor is started I let idle for minute then bump rpms up to about 1400 for 5 minutes then off I go. Lately I have been wondering if pre warming for hour is worth the extra effort compared to just starting and allowing for longer engine idle and running warm up time.
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #7  
Dave M7040 - that chart is right out of your Op Manual. Exact same as mine. Gives me time to run back in and have a second cup of coffee.
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #8  
I try not to start in cold weather but if I do I let it warm up the best I can. Even after 30 minutes of running, the trans oil is still surprisingly cold. My warm up is a couple minutes at idle, around 10 to 30 minutes at a faster idle and then I take it easy when I use it. Even if I work with it for an hour, the trans oil is not fully warm.

Over the years I have tried magnetic heaters on the trans case as well as radiator and freeze plug heaters. The freeze plug heater worked the best and did cut down on warm up time considerably. I had the dealer install when new. The magnetic heater was a waste of time and the radiator hose heater worked pretty good. It was a KATS heater that pulled water from the block and circulated through the lower radiator hose.

It's real easy to break things when it's cold out and things aren't warmed up.
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #9  
What Oldnslo said - the hydro is self heating from charge oil going over the relief anytime it is running. After warming up and before starting work we recommend cycling all other hydraulics to get the cold oil out of cylinders and back where it can warm up too.
 
   / How do you warm your hydraulics #10  
Keep your machine out of the wind if possible, letting the machine idle ( 13 to 14 rpm) will circulate the hydro fluid, warming it up as it does. take it slow from there to start off.
Don't forget, a block heater also keep the oil (engine) warm in the valleys of the block as well as the water, the longer you leave it plugged in, the better. IMO
Winter temps are hard on a machine no matter what you do, it's when most breakdowns occur,
other than a heated garage, every little bit helps.
 
 
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