sorry to hear on loss of your house. your MF135 is a great tractor, i had the earlier generation 35 TO for many years. in addition to the above advice, periodically check radiator for debris buildup & overheating. think your model is better protected on that than mine was. also, assume your B/H has a "stump jumper" installed underneath on the output shaft, almost a necessity. if you do initial hogging yourself, cut high on 1st pass, go in low range & be patient. & when servicing blades, etc, block up the hog before crawling underneath, rather than just relying on hydraulics. personally, i prefer to remove blades for sharpening (impact wrench almost a must) rather than wrestling around with a grinder a few inches from your face underneath. best of luck on your house plans, maybe post some pics on it's progress! btw if you chain saw some larger saplings, make it a ground level cut! otherwise those stubs will surely spike into your tires, been there before..
Any brush hogging tips?
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Code54
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EXCELLENT point!
Poopdeck Pappy
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Also be on the lookout for old wells or cisterns. I was mowing an area of my property that I've never mowed and it's been overgrown for the 2 years I've owned it. I was being especially careful and watchful since it had not been mowed before. I was going along and saw some bricks on the ground so I stopped and got off the tractor to move them. Lo and behold, it was an old open brick-lined water well that's probably 40 feet deep. Glad I wasn't being cocky that day. It could have been bad.
It pays to go slow, pay attention and don't take any chances.
It pays to go slow, pay attention and don't take any chances.
Code54
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If you have a loader it is also good to keep it very low to the ground. Have found some hidden rocks and logs that way.
newbury
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I would suggest walk the area the first time. There is nothing like running over some discarded fencing and getting it wrapped around the stump jumper. I learned that on You tube.
Also if you can possibly build a hoist you can hoist an end or side up to work on it. Hoists are handy.
Also if you can possibly build a hoist you can hoist an end or side up to work on it. Hoists are handy.
newbury
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I would suggest walk the area the first time.
/edit - missed that this was already written.
There is nothing like running over some discarded fencing and getting it wrapped around the stump jumper. I learned that on You tube.
Also if you can possibly build a hoist you can hoist an end or side up to work on it. Hoists are handy.
/edit - Also size your PTO to your tractor. My aged rotary mower bought from an aged relative came with an aged PTO shaft.
I suspect it was a 4, I broke the cross link, I suspect I may need a 5 or 6 for my 42 PTO HP tractor.
/edit - missed that this was already written.
There is nothing like running over some discarded fencing and getting it wrapped around the stump jumper. I learned that on You tube.
Also if you can possibly build a hoist you can hoist an end or side up to work on it. Hoists are handy.
/edit - Also size your PTO to your tractor. My aged rotary mower bought from an aged relative came with an aged PTO shaft.
I suspect it was a 4, I broke the cross link, I suspect I may need a 5 or 6 for my 42 PTO HP tractor.
Last edited:
Drive over it with the tractor first without the mower running. If you set the mower low and do a rehearsal its a much better way to find obstacles than bouncing over it with a roaring mower going. If you get in hornets just ride away fast as they will quit after about 30 yards. Don't turn the tractor off and try to leap off and run for it.
Never get under the mower being held up by the 3 point hitch. Always block it up or better yet take it off and flip it over if you need to unwind some fencing. Grass is the toughest thing to mow power wise. Mowing it a little higher takes lots less gas and is easier on your equipment.
If your only cutting weeds and grass a sharper blade really helps speed things along. Find out what kind of drive line protection is on your mower and if it is a slip clutch loosen it and tap it to make sure its not frozen and will slip when you need it. Usually I just do that once a year. Mow when your well rested and not upset or angry. keep your mind on your business, no cell phone talking on a running tractor.
Use your ears and your nose to keep a check on things. If you smell anything that smells like burning or hot oil cooking turn everything off and go over your machine and identify the cause of the smell. Could be a gearbox or a bearing or even something wedged against the muffler.
Mowing after a light rain will reduce the dust and is the very best time to mow I think.
Never get under the mower being held up by the 3 point hitch. Always block it up or better yet take it off and flip it over if you need to unwind some fencing. Grass is the toughest thing to mow power wise. Mowing it a little higher takes lots less gas and is easier on your equipment.
If your only cutting weeds and grass a sharper blade really helps speed things along. Find out what kind of drive line protection is on your mower and if it is a slip clutch loosen it and tap it to make sure its not frozen and will slip when you need it. Usually I just do that once a year. Mow when your well rested and not upset or angry. keep your mind on your business, no cell phone talking on a running tractor.
Use your ears and your nose to keep a check on things. If you smell anything that smells like burning or hot oil cooking turn everything off and go over your machine and identify the cause of the smell. Could be a gearbox or a bearing or even something wedged against the muffler.
Mowing after a light rain will reduce the dust and is the very best time to mow I think.
smstonypoint
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Throttle down before either engaging or disengaging the PTO.
Steve
Steve
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Running an open cab tractor I like to cut after a light rain or early morning when theres a lot of dew. If you have bad allergies it'll help you a lot
from an allergies standpoint, yes....but not for the quality of cut or your equip, always a price
