How to break in a new Kubota MX5200

[grclark50]

What kind of Attachments did you get?

Kubota had a promo going where you got $1500.00 off on the tractor and one or two implements plus 0 for 60 if you purchased an MX 4800 or 5200. I traded in a 3830 which used the 60in implements so I got a new 72 in box scraper, 84 in blade scraper, a 3 spear bale spear that works with the detachable fel. I also have from previous tractor purchases a chain harrow, 55 gal sprayer, post hole digger, fertilizer spreader, rock rake, bush hog mower, tiller and draw bar trailer ball connector. I also got 0 for 60 on the implements so it didn't hurt as bad. My 60 in scraper and box scraper are for sale.

grc

 

[Mikejeakins]

Sounds like you got a good deal. I've been looking at the MX 5200 also. I would like to get a 3rd function on the loader as well as some rear remotes.

 

[Texasmark]

You need to seat the rings, even if tin plated. How do you do that? Work it hard but watch the temp gauge. When you start getting up at mid range on the temp, back off the load to keep it there or below. With these 100 degree days, that shouldn't be too hard.

Keep rpms up in the PTO region, or close. You need to stay above the peak of the torque curve. On mine PTO is 2400 to 2800 and the torque curve peaks at 1600. Reason for staying up is that when you load the tractor you pull the rpms down somewhat (100 is all mine drops on current max loads, which could go to 260 before I got worried...10%) and as you do the torque rises and the engine keeps tugging. If you are at a low rpm, at or below the peak, when you lug it the rpms and the torque drop and on that a diesel will just crater..................and that is where you put a strain on engine bearings and test your oil's lubricating skills.

That's the way I do it.

 

[grclark50]

You need to seat the rings, even if tin plated. How do you do that? Work it hard but watch the temp gauge. When you start getting up at mid range on the temp, back off the load to keep it there or below. With these 100 degree days, that shouldn't be too hard.

Keep rpms up in the PTO region, or close. You need to stay above the peak of the torque curve. On mine PTO is 2400 to 2800 and the torque curve peaks at 1600. Reason for staying up is that when you load the tractor you pull the rpms down somewhat (100 is all mine drops on current max loads, which could go to 260 before I got worried...10%) and as you do the torque rises and the engine keeps tugging. If you are at a low rpm, at or below the peak, when you lug it the rpms and the torque drop and on that a diesel will just crater..................and that is where you put a strain on engine bearings and test your oil's lubricating skills.

That's the way I do it.

Thank you for that info, from the replies I have been running too low rpm and that is good to know.
Thanks
grc

 

[grclark50]

I thought I got a pretty good deal but I read where a guy got the MX5200 for $27k not sure of the configuration or what came with it but sounds like he got a better deal. Anyway at this point I like the 52, it is much more powerful than my previous 3830 and is also just about as manuverable which is a real plus. The 52 has a lot of extra features above the L series in my opinion. Since my post I have upped the rpms when working the tractor and I believe that has resolved the whining noise problem. When you consider the 0 for 60 it really saves you a lot of cash up front and offsets the depreciation over 5 years vs financing. Kubota tractors and I am sure other brands as well are really holding their value. When I traded in my 3830 on the 5200 I got very close to what I paid for it nine years ago so that helps to offset the continually rising cost of a new tractor but overall not a bad investment if you use the tractor. BTW the dealer sold my 3830 in two days......

 

[Texasmark]

He did say that changing the HDT to Super hydraulic would make a difference because it is thinner oil.
grc

Then you need something with the JM20D rating which is lower viscosity made for HDT applications....aka Kabota. Noises in hydraulic systems are usually cavitation, small bubbles caused by orifice changes or abrupt diameter changes primarily small to larger diameter. In gears it depends on how the gears were cut usually. Helical cut gears are quieter than spur gears.....helical not parallel to axis of rotation as is a spur. Gradually engage as they rotate which assists in reducing noise. Thicker lube tends to reduce gear noises also as the molecules are larger and more insulation is between the surfaces......but it takes more hp and is harder to shift in cold weather.

 

[grclark50]

Then you need something with the JM20D rating which is lower viscosity made for HDT applications....aka Kabota. Noises in hydraulic systems are usually cavitation, small bubbles caused by orifice changes or abrupt diameter changes primarily small to larger diameter. In gears it depends on how the gears were cut usually. Helical cut gears are quieter than spur gears.....helical not parallel to axis of rotation as is a spur. Gradually engage as they rotate which assists in reducing noise. Thicker lube tends to reduce gear noises also as the molecules are larger and more insulation is between the surfaces......but it takes more hp and is harder to shift in cold weather.

Thanks for the feedback Texasmark. From your post are you saying to stick with thicker HDT oil and increase the throttle? Obviously I want to do what is best for the preservation of the tractor. Since I originally asked the question I have increased my rpm substantially when working the tractor and that has helped or I can't hear the whine over the engine noise. I have a personal issue using the tractor at a high rpm although it must be the best practice, not used to running the tractor at the higher rpm. From everything I read that is how they should run at least the newer ones.
grc

 

[grclark50]

Kubota had a promo going where you got $1500.00 off on the tractor and one or two implements plus 0 for 60 if you purchased an MX 4800 or 5200. I traded in a 3830 which used the 60in implements so I got a new 72 in box scraper, 84 in blade scraper, a 3 spear bale spear that works with the detachable fel. I also have from previous tractor purchases a chain harrow, 55 gal sprayer, post hole digger, fertilizer spreader, rock rake, bush hog mower, tiller and draw bar trailer ball connector. I also got 0 for 60 on the implements so it didn't hurt as bad. My 60 in scraper and box scraper are for sale.

grc

Got my bale spears yesterday, what a great system. Previously I had a bale spear that connected to the front of the bucket edge and was chained on. The skid steer detachable bale spear is night and day better all around. Really happy with it.
grc

 

[Texasmark]

My tractor is rated at 2600 rpm. The factory adjusted governor on the pump is set to 2800. When I am working mine pretty good, the difference in 2500 and 2800 in terms of rpm drop in percent with the load is quite different. I have dropped the rpm by 11% but the loaded rpm vs implement up rpm varies more like 50% more drop at the lower rpms.....like just the other day I was running 2500 and dropping 150 (one and one half tick marks), so I upped it to WOT and it dropped less than one division (100 rpm per tick mark). I know the torque is falling from 1600 but not very fast so I don't know why i did better. May-be my ground contact efficiency, be it the tires or the ability of the cultivator sweeps to bust through the dirt. Fuel consumption is spec'd at .046 gal/hr/hp used and apparently is constant (linear) so I'm not worrying about that.

 

[grclark50]

My tractor is rated at 2600 rpm. The factory adjusted governor on the pump is set to 2800. When I am working mine pretty good, the difference in 2500 and 2800 in terms of rpm drop in percent with the load is quite different. I have dropped the rpm by 11% but the loaded rpm vs implement up rpm varies more like 50% more drop at the lower rpms.....like just the other day I was running 2500 and dropping 150 (one and one half tick marks), so I upped it to WOT and it dropped less than one division (100 rpm per tick mark). I know the torque is falling from 1600 but not very fast so I don't know why i did better. May-be my ground contact efficiency, be it the tires or the ability of the cultivator sweeps to bust through the dirt. Fuel consumption is spec'd at .046 gal/hr/hp used and apparently is constant (linear) so I'm not worrying about that.

I am not sure I understood all that but you have some detailed measurements. I have learned that I need to run a faster rpm than I am used to but that is normal.

Thanks for your input you have interesting info.
grc