3-Point Hitch 3-point hitch damage

[oosik]

I've read several posts where various components of the 3-point hitch have been damaged, twisted, broken etc. My owners manual is totally silent regarding operations that could or will cause problems/damage. Likewise, I've been unable to locate any post that outline those activities that can or do cause damage. I'm wondering if a list of those activities which have or will cause damage would be helpful. I've never damaged the 3-point on either of my two tractors but I wonder if I'm just rolling the dice and its simply a matter of time. Your thoughts & experiences would be very helpful.

 

[k0ua]

Not from personal experience but pushing backwards with box and angle blades wads up stabilizers, both the turnbuckle and telescoping kind. 3 point backhoes break toplinks , toplink attachment points and gear cases. Having the drawpin retaining pins fall out usually results in something being bent or broken. I got lucky when my ballast barrel drawpin retaining pin was missing (oops) and skewed sideways when I was in reverse. Slightly bent the toplink. I was able to straighten it. Just stuff like that.

 

[Wagtail]

Not from personal experience but pushing backwards

I don't have a lot of experience but I've avoided doing any 3PH implement work in reverse. It logically seemed to me that the tractor was designed to pull.

The heaviest implement I've got for the 3PH is a water-filled ballast roller (with aerating spikes). I lift it for corners or at the end of a line, make the turn, then set it down for the next straight run.

 

[Fawken]

Not from personal experience but pushing backwards with box and angle blades wads up stabilizers, both the turnbuckle and telescoping kind. 3 point backhoes break toplinks , toplink attachment points and gear cases. Having the drawpin retaining pins fall out usually results in something being bent or broken. I got lucky when my ballast barrel drawpin retaining pin was missing (oops) and skewed sideways when I was in reverse. Slightly bent the toplink. I was able to straighten it. Just stuff like that.

Funny, but I have done all of those thinks including using a 3 point hoe and never had an issue. Maybe the older units were stronger. I cannot imagine not being able to push stuff with my box blade.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Early in its 1500 HR life I bent two of the Kubota BX 25 OEM top links beyond repair somehow. They are extremely light compared to after market one which are hard to find due to the short length. No problems for the last 1000 HRs. Are the M's links as heavy or heavier than the after market ones?

Ron

 

[xzcVAbc5]

On my bx25d I managed to bend my top link by just raising my box blade. What caused it was I installed it wrong. I thought the piece of metal on the top link was supposed to keep the link from rotating up into the hydro line so I put it above the link. Apparently it was for keeping the top link from dragging on the ground if leaving it attached. I bent the top link some but also popped off the piece of metal. That went in the scrap pile. I use a QH when I have on the top link so thers no way it will be dragging anyway.

 

[Dewbie]

I've pushed backing up with my box blade several times with no issues..maybe I'm just lucky I ain't tore nothing up yet. Not saying it can't happen just ain't happened to me..yet..

 

[brown40]

I try to remember the physics and design. The 3 point was an upgrade from the drawbar way back when, so you could pick the implement right up and adjust draft on the fly... wasn't to do work pushing, but pulling. The drawbar pivoted on a single point, where the 3pt locks it in solid on three. Leverage from attachments is what damages them--sidewards forces on the pyramid created by the set-up. Turns with ground engaged creates sidewards force on it; pushing can , especially with wider or longer attachments, then having part of the 3pt come loose, puts tremendous strain on whats left attached.
Most cutters are designed to have movement in the top links and lower links so they don't act as a massive prybar on the tractor, as well as follow contours better.
I do push with the box blade, but won't ram with it, I do back the cutter over stuff, but watch the tail closely to make sure its not become an 8 foot lever in either direction, and mostly I try and remember it's designed to pull, not push, twist or turn. The longer, wider, heavier implements are the ones that generate greater forces.

 

[oosik]

Tractor Seabee(Ron) - I really don't know if the lower links are heavier than after market. I've done all the "bad" things with them - never damaged them - so I've never looked. I've got a FitRite hydraulic top link and its considerably heavier than OEM. The lower links are 1" x 3" by around 34" long - Class 2. I would think its all kind of relative - - bigger tractors - bigger implements - bigger links.

There is always a "weak link" in any system(pun intended) and I really don't want to find out that I'm doing something really stupid and mess things up.

The problem is - you put on heavier lower links and the point of attachment to the tractor may become the weak link.

From this site - quite a while back - I learned its best to lift any ground engagement implement at the end of a row - before making a turn. Its info, such as that, that is important to know about and understand.

I really appreciate hearing what others have to say about this situation - their experiences, their understanding, their knowledge.

 

[RDrancher]

I've bent my share of sway links, all of them with the brush hog attached while mowing for customers. All of the junk that wasn't there (according to the landowner) seems to magically show up when I arrive. The key to not bending sway links seems to be having extras in the toolbox. Haven't bent a link since I put them there three years ago.

I cut drainage swales in reverse all the time, but shift into 2WD. The tires will slip before any damage is done.