D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity

[ZaqAttack]

This is a good one !

I have a JD D130 with 60 hrs and 3 yrs (beyond warranty) and can not get it going - and this is mid season
engine is a B&S 40 twin 22hp

- last run ( 2 week ago) I did run her right out of gas, but filled her, cut another lawn and put her away in the shed - I did have an instance of a backfire while cutting the lawn I believe before the refill...
after 1 week of no use the weekend came and I went to go cut the lawns again - but no go - Cranks but does not turn over, and backfired a couple times while trying to start - now we are at the next weekend and here is what has been attempted

-engine cranks well and is on a solar trickle charger
- at first as noted earlier, when cranking I would get a back fire - I read that the backfire is indicative of not enough fuel - and was indicative of the single choke/throttle linkage - where the choke was not closing, and therefore leaning out the mixture and allowing the opening for the backfire
I checked the linkage and it did not appear to have any slack or require any adjustment - I used a mirror to see if it was closing and seemed to be, but real tough to judge with the mirror and flashlight - I also stuck some curved needle nose pliers down the air-intake to put pressure on the plate to ensure it was closed while choked - this did not start it so I moved on to other possible solutions..

- I had done an air filter and oil & filter change very recently, and now since the no start I have completed the following
- changed fuel filter
-checked the Fuel cap for a clog - attempted couple starts with fuel cap off just to make sure.. no go
- changed spark plugs - - checked spark plugs and both are sparking
- fired a couple blasts of carb cleaner down the air intake and no start as well...
- checked fuel shut off solenoid on carb and it is actuating perfectly -witnessed it working and also can hear it when I turn the key
- I checked the solenoid twice as a means of seeing that fuel was being delivered (removing the solenoid causesdthe carburetor to flush out each time)
-I can see that fuel is moving through the fuel filter (clear housing) and I did not overfill the engine with oil according to the dipstick and, as the fuel pump does not seem to be impaired.

I am now at a loss - I believe I am getting Air, Spark and Fuel - on cranking now there is no backfire

All I can think of is that perhaps there is some strange safety switch malfunction - but the pto lever is in the right position and foot brake and seat mechanism are working and allow me to crank ?? so this is probably not it.

I have a gentle property to mow - and have not hit any rocks or branches that would cause blade damage or a shear that would entail removing the flywheel to check for a shear.

I read somewhere I believe related to a push mower that you can use an ohm reader to check the safety switch - but the safety switches are working on this as it is worked through the foot pedal or seat and I can crank, so they are working ?

As at first I had a backfire and now I don't perhaps I made it go from lean and backfiring due to the choke/throttle linkage to flooded ?? perhaps I will let it air out also put on a real battery charger and try again tomorrow - your thoughts are welcome !!

 

[s219]

You can bypass any of the safety switches to see if they are the problem. Would be one on the switch, PTO, and possible reverse / reverse override.

 

[Gator6x4]

This is a good one !

I have a JD D130 with 60 hrs and 3 yrs (beyond warranty) and can not get it going - and this is mid season
engine is a B&S 40 twin 22hp

- last run ( 2 week ago) I did run her right out of gas, but filled her, cut another lawn and put her away in the shed - I did have an instance of a backfire while cutting the lawn I believe before the refill...
after 1 week of no use the weekend came and I went to go cut the lawns again - but no go - Cranks but does not turn over, and backfired a couple times while trying to start - now we are at the next weekend and here is what has been attempted

-engine cranks well and is on a solar trickle charger
- at first as noted earlier, when cranking I would get a back fire - I read that the backfire is indicative of not enough fuel - and was indicative of the single choke/throttle linkage - where the choke was not closing, and therefore leaning out the mixture and allowing the opening for the backfire
I checked the linkage and it did not appear to have any slack or require any adjustment - I used a mirror to see if it was closing and seemed to be, but real tough to judge with the mirror and flashlight - I also stuck some curved needle nose pliers down the air-intake to put pressure on the plate to ensure it was closed while choked - this did not start it so I moved on to other possible solutions..

- I had done an air filter and oil & filter change very recently, and now since the no start I have completed the following
- changed fuel filter
-checked the Fuel cap for a clog - attempted couple starts with fuel cap off just to make sure.. no go
- changed spark plugs - - checked spark plugs and both are sparking
- fired a couple blasts of carb cleaner down the air intake and no start as well...
- checked fuel shut off solenoid on carb and it is actuating perfectly -witnessed it working and also can hear it when I turn the key
- I checked the solenoid twice as a means of seeing that fuel was being delivered (removing the solenoid causesdthe carburetor to flush out each time)
-I can see that fuel is moving through the fuel filter (clear housing) and I did not overfill the engine with oil according to the dipstick and, as the fuel pump does not seem to be impaired.

I am now at a loss - I believe I am getting Air, Spark and Fuel - on cranking now there is no backfire

All I can think of is that perhaps there is some strange safety switch malfunction - but the pto lever is in the right position and foot brake and seat mechanism are working and allow me to crank ?? so this is probably not it.

I have a gentle property to mow - and have not hit any rocks or branches that would cause blade damage or a shear that would entail removing the flywheel to check for a shear.

I read somewhere I believe related to a push mower that you can use an ohm reader to check the safety switch - but the safety switches are working on this as it is worked through the foot pedal or seat and I can crank, so they are working ?

As at first I had a backfire and now I don't perhaps I made it go from lean and backfiring due to the choke/throttle linkage to flooded ?? perhaps I will let it air out also put on a real battery charger and try again tomorrow - your thoughts are welcome !!

Briggs engines have a history of the rocker arm coming loose. Do a compression check on the engine and see if both cylinder are equal or near equal. If you do not have a compression gauge use your finger. Remove the spark plugs, both and stick your finger in the spark plug hole and spin the engine over. Did the compression blow your finger away? Or pull on your finger? If no compression remove the valve covers and check the rocker arms, are they centered over the push rods. Careful if you remove the valve covers, don't damage the gaskets.

 

[Raspy]

Since you are getting spark, I don't see how it can be a safety switch. If it's a V engine, I don't see how both cylinders could have a rocker arm problem at the same time.

I suggest you turn off the choke (open with no restriction) and squirt some starting fluid into the intake while cranking it. If it won't start and rev up with that, immediately, then you definitely have another problem. After that test, if you have compression, it's an ignition problem.

BTW, starting fluid will not hurt a gas engine like it will a diesel engine, so you can start it and rev it up on Starting fluid and even keep it running on it if you wish. If it does run on SF, but won't keep going on it's own gas, the carb has a problem or the gas is not getting there.

 

[Coyote machine]

Sounds as if it's out of time. This means that spark is being delivered, (possibly), but out of sequence with where the engine, crankshaft/camshaft(s) are positioned. If the firing of the plugs is miss timed the engine won't start, and if it did, would run poorly at best. The backfiring your describe is the indicator of the timing being wrong. It has nothing to do with safety switches. Find out what could cause the timing to 'jump', possibly a belt driven camshaft or similar and then remedy it. Do a Google search for your model engine and timing issues, no start, and backfiring and see what comes up.

 

[s219]

Good point on the presence of spark eliminating the safety switches.

The spark timing/firing should be driven off the flywheel if I remember right.

 

[Coyote machine]

Good point on the presence of spark eliminating the safety switches.

The spark timing/firing should be driven off the flywheel if I remember right.

Thanks! That's assuming the OP does actually have a spark present when turning it over. I agree flywheel should provide access to verifying timing sequence.

 

[ZaqAttack]

thank-you - will be revisiting this tomorrow - thankfully it is long weekend here
Plan is to
- try manually closed choke once more (cuz I was not truly sure I had accomplished this _ and I really want it to be this )
- then the starter fluid while starting method mentioned (be funny if this was fuel - if it is most likely gummed carb then I guess which seems really weird mid summer )
- then start looking at the flywheel removal to check for a shear and a timing issue which will be odd , but running out of options.. I do not have a flywheel remover, and stores are closed tomorrow so this may go another weekend

 

[Coyote machine]

You don't need to pull the flywheel to check timing. You do need to verify gas is wetting the plugs or it will NEVER start, even if everything else is right. You could have a dead coil(s) if spark is non-existent or intermittent/weak.

 

[Dave M7040]

You should go to this Briggs site armed with all the numbers for your motor and download their manual.
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/engine
Start in the trouble shooting section and you may find a solution.
How do you know you have spark? Doing this in the daylight is tough to see the flash.
Dave M7040