3-Point Hitch Hydraulics freeze in cold

[wellssc2002]

I have a Ford 861 Powermaster. During periods of sustained (2 days or more) cold weather (around 20 degrees F or less) my hydraulics won't lift the 3-point. Everything else about the hydraulics works fine. I assume there is water in the fluid and needs to be changed it out. I have purchased a 2 gal jug of UTF 134d from Tractor Supply. Before I set about doing this I thought it wise to ask a few questions of folks more knowledgeable than me.

First, I have read that some recommend changing the fluid in the trans, hyd, and differential all at the same time because of fluid mixing between these compartments as a result of worn seals. If this true?, beneficial?, necessary? Second, I have also read that some recommend flushing the system with a combination of fluids before replacing them (diesel? + UTF + ??). Talk like that makes me nervous, but I'm willing to learn. Third, once I change out the fluid should the lift arms work immediately, or is there any priming of the system that must take place. Thank you for any insight.

 

[DB Pilot]

I don't know. But my experience with the BX2200 is that for some reason and (I expect it was water in the system) The bucket when cold in the winter would not tip up or dump until all was warmed up. Then I had the hydraulic lines replaced due to rot and age. Of course the hydraulic fluid was replaced and all has been working perfectly since then regardless of outside temperatures. :thumbsup: No major flushing of the system was done. Just new filters, lines and fluid. Also I did not do the work myself.

 

[airrj]

wellssc2002,

I have only worked on one old Ford tractor in the past, but I will give you my thoughts.

First, why do you have moisture in your oil? I found that my neighbors old Ford 600 had obvious water contamination in the transmission and hydraulic oil when I went to service it. The tractor sits outside all of it's life, so I assumed that the contamination was from worn/cracked seals and boots. When I got the tractor in my shop I found that the boots (shifter boot mostly) was in great shape and didn't appear to be letting water in. And since I have driven the tractor many times and have never found oil leaks from any of the seals, so I a guessing that water isn't getting in from those much either. Then I noticed that neither the transmission or hydraulic sumps are vented as far as I can tell. So, my theory is that the tractor never gets allot of use, 15-20 minutes at a time, so neither the transmission or the hydraulics get up to temperature high enough to burn off all of the moisture in the oils. The engine obviously gets up to temperature in that time so there is no problem there. And the lack of a vent in either compartment adds to the difficulty of burning off the moisture in the compartment. And the moisture that I see getting in there is condensation from the castings.

So, that is my theory on why you might have moisture. Now, and again this is where I don't have allot of specific experience. I would open up the transmission fill and check to see the condition of the transmission fluid. First see if there is excessive moisture in there, either water droplets or foaming of the oil, and if there is I would change it. Also, you might be able to determine if there is serious mixing between the compartments if the fluid level is extra high, or if the gear oil looks particularly think from hydraulic oil thinning it. Also, I would suspect that it would be easier to tell if there was gear oil in the hydraulic sump due to the strong smell of gear oil. If the hydraulic fluid has any gear oil odor, then you have a problem. Either way, if you have a leak between the two compartments I don't see a difference in the problem between new oil and old. Unless there is a major leak, I would treat them as the two separate compartments that they are. Change the hyd. because you are having a problem, and change the trans if you find a problem.

Lastly, as far as "flushing" the system, I am not a fan of using anything in the system other than the fluid that is recommended for the system. Many, many people have used diesel, and ATF, and other concoctions to flush systems over the years, with varying success, but I do have allot of experience with engine building and have worked with several oil companies on lubrication, and I have never seen an upside to using something with vastly different properties in any sort of a oil or hydraulic system. I have used ATF in the past to "flush" an oil system, but only on an engine that was junk and I was going to have to replace anyway. More of a last ditch effort, and in the end it didn't help me allot.

Drop you hydraulic oil. Inspect it for shavings or other contamination, and if you don't find any, refill with new fluid. If you have the chance, try to work the hydraulic system long enough to build some heat to evaporate any condensation in the system from time to time.

Sorry for all of the rambling and good luck on the project.

R.J.

 

[Jerry/MT]

I have a Ford 861 Powermaster. During periods of sustained (2 days or more) cold weather (around 20 degrees F or less) my hydraulics won't lift the 3



Check the color of your fluid. If it looks like coffee with cream, it has water in it, most likely from normal condensation over a long period of time without being used much. if this is the condition of the fluid then it needs a change. Some tractors use the same fluid in separate reservoirs (my Ford 4610 for example) and some have a common reservoir (My TO-30 for example). If yours are separate and hydraulics are the only problem, then the contaminated rear axle fluid needs replacement in the separate compartment design, while in the common compartment design, you'' need to replace all the fluid. (You do know there are required changes for UTF. My Ford requires 1000 hr fluid changes.)

If the system has hydraulic filters, they need changing.

Finally, normal UTF will become very viscous with reduced temperatures. This means that until it warms up with use, hydraulics will be slow. This is normal. You maybe able to find some synthetic UTF's (probably pretty pricey) that have viscosity modifiers that will reduce the problem. Most of us live with it because driving around will cause the UTF temperature to increase and then the problem goes away. I have 134D UTF in my tractors and at 20F it takes a while to get normal hydraulic performance. Drive the tractor and exercise the hydraulics for 5 to 10 minutes. That's all it usually takes.