Rear remote levers

[MOTractor]

My LS XR4040 has two levers for the rear remotes right below the FEL joystick, one is green and the other is blue. If I push the green one forward (or pull back), when I release it snaps back to the center position. The blue one stays where I put it. If I want the blue lever in the center position I have to put it there. Two questions: (1) Why the difference and the significance? (2) I am buying a grapple from EA - which rear remote should I use?

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

You want it on the lever that goes back to neutral.

 

[George2615]

I have the XR3037HC with the same remotes. I installed a hydraulic thumb for use on my front forks or bucket. I ran lines from one set of rear remotes to the front to control the thumb. I use the lever that returns to center. Either set could be used. Not sure if green return to center lever releases pressure to the cylinder by returning to center but suspect it does. The blue lever would maintain pressure to the cylinder wherever you set it and may work better for a grapple work but I haven't had any problem using the green.
I use the green because it returns to center. At first I was using the blue lever and was lifting an empty fuel tank and only wanted the thumb to hold the tank. I accidentally bumped the lever in transit and crushed the tank. After that I switched ports.

 

[k0ua]

My LS XR4040 has two levers for the rear remotes right below the FEL joystick, one is green and the other is blue. If I push the green one forward (or pull back), when I release it snaps back to the center position. The blue one stays where I put it. If I want the blue lever in the center position I have to put it there. Two questions: (1) Why the difference and the significance? (2) I am buying a grapple from EA - which rear remote should I use?

View attachment 445621

Use the green one that returns to center (not detented) Be carefully with the blue one that has detents at either end of the travel, as if you leave it there and don't have either an implement like a backhoe or a loop of hose on the blue remote QD's then the pump will "deadhead" or look into a "brick wall" of an unterminated Quick Disconnect. You don't want that.

Here, perform this experiment for yourself, so that you understand what is going on, idle the tractor down, and listen carefully to the engine. Push a remote lever one direction or the other and listen to the engine "work harder". The pump is drive off of the engine and now the hydraulic pump is heavily loaded and pressure is at maximum in your open center hydraulic system, and the Pressure Relief Valve will open to control this pressure to keep the pump from exploding. If you do this with the blue lever, and leave it in the detented position without having the fluid flow out of one rear remote and back into the other so that the fluid returns to the tank relatively unimpeded, then the engine labors, the pump strains, the PRV opens up the fluid and pump heat up and and eventually failure of the pump will occur. If you don't use that blue set of QD's often, I suggest making up a hose loop and putting it between the QD's so if you accidentally leave the blue lever in detent, nothing bad will happen.

 

[MOTractor]

I will try that test tonight or in the morning. Did you post a thread on making your loop? I seem to remember that - but I have read so many threads on hydraulics i may be confused!

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I don't know about the valve on the LS, but on the Kioti DK tractors the detent function can be removed fairly easily. I saw a YouTube video on it once, and it's on my every-growing list of things to do.