Kioti oil change that went wrong

[747driver]

Hi everyone. I did my 200 hr. service this morning. All going good till i started putting the new oil in. As i got towards the bottom of the jug i noticed this green substance which i knew was antifreeze, so i stopped pouring, maybe a pint of it got into the engine. This jug had the seal broken but thought the oil looked ok....this is the same oil i use in our motorhome. Somehow this jug was used oil mixed with antifreeze, something another person who works around our place did.

Now luck as it was i noticed i had forgotten a washer on one of the drain plugs. So i took out the drain plug and i could see the green stuff coming out of the oil pan. Also i had never started the engine during this whole process. S o i finished draining all the bad oil out refilled with a new fresh oil jug which i had. Went to start the tractor and it made a clanging noise but finally smoothed out. The tractor right now is blowing a whiteish smoke and misses at times. I did change the fuel filter as well and used the air bleed valve to get the air out.

So...do any of you think i damaged anything ? My mind tells me that the bad oil i used is going to take some time to burn out ? It still misses like it is not getting fuel....maybe i didn't get all the air out ?

Thanks for any advice !

Guess i will be putting it on the trailer and taking to the Kioti dealer tomorrow....

 

[murphy1244]

I think your oil is ok but you might have air in your fuel system. may have to crack the line at each injector.

 

[747driver]

I think your oil is ok but you might have air in your fuel system. may have to crack the line at each injector.

Thanks. I just called the Kioti dealer and he said the oil should be fine. I need to run the engine for around 30 minutes to get the air out. He also said these engines do not like oil changes and fuel filter changes after you do one....takes awhile to get everything back to running smoothly !

 

[747driver]

This is my first experience with a tractor and diesel engines ! I work on jet aircraft for a living and never have these problems ! Never to old to learn...i always error to the cautious side.

 

[murphy1244]

This is my first experience with a tractor and diesel engines ! I work on jet aircraft for a living and never have these problems ! Never to old to learn...i always error to the cautious side.

You will do allright. Don't fret.

 

[varmint]

Air in the fuel lines is always an issue with diesels. Your manual should specify a procedure to clear it? Kubotas I have owned always did.

 

[747driver]

Air in the fuel lines is always an issue with diesels. Your manual should specify a procedure to clear it? Kubotas I have owned always did.

I do have a 'air' position on the fuel filter module. You use it after changing the filter, run engine for 30 seconds then switch back to the 'on' position. I did go out and use the tractor for about 20 minutes and the smoke has almost went away, so it is working like the dealer said it would.

 

[Mace Canute]

Most people don't realize just how bad glycol contamination of engine oil actually is. From Four Lethal Diesel Engine Oil Contaminants

The following are some of the risks associated with glycol contamination:

Just 0.4 percent coolant containing glycol in diesel engine oil is enough to coagulate soot and cause a dump-out condition leading to sludge, deposits, oil flow restrictions and filter blockage.

According to one study, glycol contamination results in wear rates 10 times greater than water contamination alone.

Glycol reacts with oil additives causing precipitation. For instance, an important antiwear additive in motor oils, zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP), will form reaction products and plug filters when oil is contaminated with glycol. This leads to loss of antiwear and antioxidant performance as well.

Glycol has led to cold seizure of engines.

Ethylene glycol oxidizes into corrosive acids, including the following: glycolic acid, oxalic acid, formic acid and carbonic acid. These acids cause a rapid drop in the oil's alkalinity (base number), resulting in an unprotected corrosive environment and base oil oxidation.

Oil balls (abrasive spherical contaminants) form from the reaction of calcium sulfonate detergent additives (found in nearly all motor oils) and glycol contamination. These balls are a known cause of damage to crankcase bearings and other frictional surfaces within an engine.

Glycol contamination substantially increases oil viscosity which impairs lubrication and oil cooling.

Also from The Effects of Glycol Contamination in Engine Oils

Antifreeze causes a thickening of the oil, increasing the viscosity and not allowing it to flow as readily as before. This can lead to boundary conditions in parts of the engine that require a less viscous fluid to properly lubricate and protect them. It also creates an acidic environment within the oil, resulting in corrosion within the system, especially on copper surfaces. The additives within the oil can be compromised as well.

Once contaminated, the oil continues the same route of flow, from the sump, into the crankcase, through various parts of the engine and through the filter. With the added glycol, these filters become plugged sooner, which can cause reduced flow and eventually, once the bypass pressure is reached, a condition in which you are no longer filtering your oil. This allows particles that normally would have been filtered out to remain in the system, disrupting the lubricating film and resulting in surface damage to components.

Antifreeze also mixes with oil to form small globules called oil balls. Although very small, typically 5 to 40 microns in size, they can cause big problems. These balls are abrasive and create surface erosion. A common place to see this would be on the inside walls of the cylinder, where the oil balls could cut and gouge into the wall. They can produce all types of surface fatigue and lead to lubrication failures in areas of very tight tolerances.

The effects of coolant and antifreeze contamination are many. One is simply a rise in the oil's viscosity or a thickening of the oil. This often produces what's called black mayonnaise, which is a thick gel or emulsion when mixed with the oil. Acids are formed like glycolic acid, formic acid and other organic acid types. Flow is restricted as this black mayonnaise moves throughout the engine. It can occlude to the walls and narrow passageways, and interfere with oil flow, causing partial or total starvation where the oil is intended to go. It is very common for glycol and these emulsions and gels to completely block flow-through filters. It is reported to be the No. 1 cause of premature filter failure in a diesel engine and overall poor lubrication.

 

[Coyote machine]

I'd run it to temperature, then drain the oil and change the filter. You want to make sure there is NO coolant in the oil, period. Coolant is an etchant, and will damage bearing surfaces and worse. It will NOT mix well with oil either, so you want it completely out of your engine.

 

[TomSeller]

One good thing you have going for you is the coolant is not mixing with the oil and is staying the bottom. After initial hot drain, I would not hesitate to put in inexpensive engine oil and drain it WHEN COLD when the oil and coolant are clearly separated and coolant is at the BOTTOM. Kind of a last purge to flush the residual coolant out. As mentioned above, coolant longterm in the crankcase is not good. You are getting good advice in previous post.. Good luck.