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  1. #11
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    Ford 1920 4x4 FEL, Ford 3400TLB, Ford 8N

    Default Re: Whoops!

    Quote Originally Posted by 12Bravo View Post
    Here, I just took some photos for you all to see and maybe give some pointers on what my best option is. I can't put in culverts right now and can't do french drains right now, so sloping the driveway and cutting across it is all I can do for now.






    This area washed out and is soft. I think water is running under gravel and on top of the clay layer. There is a spot that looks like a spring, water just bubbles out from the middle of the driveway on this slope. Which is the steepest part of the driveway, I literally have to use 4x4 to back up this section or get a running start to make it in the wife's car, picture doesn't do the slope justice.





    Drive that goes to neighbors which has a lot of run off and can't seem to get it figured out.




    The three most important things for creating a good driveway are:

    #1 DITCHES

    #2 DITCHES

    #3 DITCHES

    After the ditches, you will need to find a cheap gravel source, and a friend with a 10 wheel dump.
    Then: keep plenty of crown on your gravel surface.

  2. #12
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    Up-State New York
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    Grand L 3540 HST-3, R4's

    Default Re: Whoops!

    Yep I agree Gravel, Gravel, Gravel.10" to 12" should be the ticket and as said crown it so center is a bit higher then taper down to the edges. If you have springs then you need to do culverts on the sides to allow the run off of water, you can do it, take your time, as others have said practice will make it work. My driveway in the beginning was mud, had to get wooden pallets just to walk out garage door, ah the memories, lol,lol.
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  3. #13
    Veteran Member airbiscuit's Avatar
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    Aug 2004
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    Wisconsin
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    New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura 1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925

    Default Re: Whoops!

    Actually, I think your work looks pretty good. I would hand dig in a piece of 6" PVC under your waterline to drain things for now. Everywhere else that water wants to pool, dig in a ditch or swale/sump that will get the water off the road. Eventually, you will have a place for all the water to go, or at least slow the flow and volume. Then you can finesse with more gravel and crowning. Either the US Forestry Service or BLM has some good information about road drainage and erosion control.

    Seriously though, your work looks good.

  4. #14
    Platinum Member 12Bravo's Avatar
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    Eastern TN
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    Kioti CK2610 TLB, Gill 5' Scraper Blade (Tilt/Angle)

    Default Re: Whoops!

    Quote Originally Posted by airbiscuit View Post
    Actually, I think your work looks pretty good. I would hand dig in a piece of 6" PVC under your waterline to drain things for now. Everywhere else that water wants to pool, dig in a ditch or swale/sump that will get the water off the road. Eventually, you will have a place for all the water to go, or at least slow the flow and volume. Then you can finesse with more gravel and crowning. Either the US Forestry Service or BLM has some good information about road drainage and erosion control.

    Seriously though, your work looks good.
    Thanks, that gave me a bit of a confidence boost...
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  5. #15
    Platinum Member 12Bravo's Avatar
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    Kioti CK2610 TLB, Gill 5' Scraper Blade (Tilt/Angle)

    Default Re: Whoops!

    I went back out and did some more work on it while brush pile was burning.

    I think this is what I am going to do.......

    I'm going to cut just about all the gravel off that is there right now and push into a pile down by the road. Call in some 3"-4" gravel to be placed and then have 3/4" fine delivered to place over top of the larger stones. With one culvert at the base of the hill where the neighbors part branches off and then cut ditches down the side about 6-8" deep on both sides. Time will tell!

    One issue is winter months with snow and plowing a gravel driveway. What's the best way to move snow but not rip the crap out of my driveway?
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  6. #16
    Veteran Member airbiscuit's Avatar
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    Wisconsin
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    New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura 1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925

    Default Re: Whoops!

    It would be best if you cut in your ditches and form the crown before the gravel is delivered. The spread of gravel will follow your profile for better or worse, so it is better to have it profiled well before the gravel comes. Cutting in the ditches will give you material to form the crown. Then, when the gravel comes and gets spread, it will be pretty much the same depth from, edge to edge and in the middle.

    Ditches are your friend. I use sumps/swales where there is no downhill for me to send the the water to.

  7. #17
    Veteran Member sd455dan's Avatar
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    North Idaho
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    Rhino 554, JD550G dozer Gilson MTD riding mowers Ford 3000-Sold

    Default Re: Whoops!

    Quote Originally Posted by fried1765 View Post
    The three most important things for creating a good driveway are:

    #1 DITCHES

    #2 DITCHES

    #3 DITCHES

    After the ditches, you will need to find a cheap gravel source, and a friend with a 10 wheel dump.
    Then: keep plenty of crown on your gravel surface.
    I was going to say road fabric- for under the drive itself but it gets expensive fairly quick if it is a long driveway

  8. #18
    Veteran Member airbiscuit's Avatar
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    New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura 1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925

    Default Re: Whoops!

    Quote Originally Posted by 12Bravo View Post
    One issue is winter months with snow and plowing a gravel driveway. What's the best way to move snow but not rip the crap out of my driveway?
    Up here, it isn't a problem. The road is frozen as hard as a brick. How much snow can you get in a single storm? How do you clear the snow now? Rear Blade? Going forward, or pushing backward?

    I am sure you will get good ideas from others in your "balmy" climate. Your rear blade should do the trick if you can fab up and attach some skids or guide wheels to hold the blade slightly off the ground. Guide wheels are also awesome for maintaining a nice level road.

  9. #19
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    Staunton, VA
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    John Deere 3038E

    Default Re: Whoops!

    I have a one mile (exactly) drive. I should have laid down the big stone, then gravel then crusher run... But I flat didn't have the money. It has probably cost me more over the years having to replace gravel that's sinking in the soil, but I had little choice at the time. Properly graveling a mile of curved, hilly road through a forest is awfully expensive.

    The folks advocating ditches and crowned drives are correct. But mine has few ditches and sporadic crowning. However, it does work. My secret has been a box blade. By regular touching up of the crive with the BB, I have made it last a very long time. While I don't have too many ditches, I do have frequent swales or dips on hills to drain water to the side. Somehow it works, and has for 22 years now.

    The drive's a mess right now because the Virginia DOT has postponed replacement of failing 48 in culvert giving me access to the drive and I can't safely run a full dump across it yet. So my drive is now really soft with patches of dirt showing... But navigable.

    As for snow, I simply use my FEL and a rear scraper blade and go slow enough so I can control the cut and take out minimal stone. The drive is wide enough to scrape a lane where any stone picked up remains on the stone portion and can be scraped back into the drive in the spring.

    Good luck with your drive. You will learn a lot, and ultimately win.

  10. #20
    Super Star Member
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    somewhere usa
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    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: Whoops!

    Quote Originally Posted by airbiscuit View Post
    It would be best if you cut in your ditches and form the crown before the gravel is delivered. The spread of gravel will follow your profile for better or worse, so it is better to have it profiled well before the gravel comes. Cutting in the ditches will give you material to form the crown. Then, when the gravel comes and gets spread, it will be pretty much the same depth from, edge to edge and in the middle.

    Ditches are your friend. I use sumps/swales where there is no downhill for me to send the the water to.
    I agree with shaping the driveway first. Get it where it works with ditches, diversions and culverts. Crown the driveway then see how it does after a rain. Fix any further issues with drainage when this is done then call in the gravel trucks. I recommend you go the trouble to find out which driver is the best at tailgating/spreading the gravel. A good truck driver can save you a ton of work. Particularly if you have few implements.

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