Who uses dual tilt cylinders? I do...

[bcp]

Bruce, while the pivot is not centered, when the hitch is set up so that the ram is 1/2 way extended with the implement level, you get the same amount of degree tilt to either side. So you should be able to do the exact same procedure with either side.

Yes, the angle is the same, but I can't go deep enough to reach the ditch bottom on the left side. The hitch bottoms out too soon.

I haven't measured, but looking at it, the left side is only raised or lowered 2 inches when the right side goes up or down 10 inches.

Here is a crude drawing of what I mean.



Bruce

 

[Jim Timber]

I don't have mine quite centered, but it's within about 1/2" from one side to the other. 5" stroke

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yes, the angle is the same, but I can't go deep enough to reach the ditch bottom on the left side. The hitch bottoms out too soon.

I haven't measured, but looking at it, the left side is only raised or lowered 2 inches when the right side goes up or down 10 inches.

Here is a crude drawing of what I mean.

View attachment 461786

Bruce

The tractor has to be in the ditch with a box blade. You are saying that the left side won't go deep enough? You should be able to get roughly a 10* cut. The second time through you would then be at about 20*. I would not want to be going through a 3rd time. I would not want to even clean out a 20* cut with a std wheeled machine. :no:

I guess I just don't understand your conditions-circumstances as to why it would not work for you. Doesn't the cutting edge of your box blade go about 12" below tire level? :confused3:

 

[npalen]

I unintentionally created a floating side link when started using the base end of the tilt cylinder as a leveling gauge.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/352559-hydraulics-what.html

 

[bcp]

The tractor has to be in the ditch with a box blade. You are saying that the left side won't go deep enough? You should be able to get roughly a 10* cut. The second time through you would then be at about 20*. I would not want to be going through a 3rd time. I would not want to even clean out a 20* cut with a std wheeled machine. :no:

I guess I just don't understand your conditions-circumstances as to why it would not work for you. Doesn't the cutting edge of your box blade go about 12" below tire level? :confused3:

I may have to examine this problem more seriously when the weather gets dry. I was grading a roadside ditch that had filled in to road level with bank erosion, going up a slight grade, with no problem, box blade right side down fully. The blade would cut for about a tractor length, until it was full, then just drug the dirt without cutting more until I dumped it at the upper end of the ditch. This was small ditch as the road was narrow. I'm guessing 18in wide and 8in deep.

After lunch, I raised the right side fully in order to grade downhill on the steep part of the road, left side down. Starting above where I quit, so I could deepen the part I had least traveled over, the blade would not reach the bottom of my previous cut, by a couple of inches, but hit the crest of the new ditch and wanted to cut nearly full width of the blade. Moving to an uncut portion, I had the same problem. It would not cut an 18in wide ditch, but wanted to cut a 3ft wide ditch. I had to go back to the previous adjustment, right side down, and grade uphill to finish the ditching.

While sitting here thinking about it, a possibility is that the BX adjustable side link is not centered when the blade is level, so I am not actually getting the same angle at the upper and lower limit of travel. I see that I will have to measure both the blade angle at both extremes, the blade drop below wheel level, and link length short, long, and centered. Anything else to check?

Bruce

 

[redman135]

bcp, is your blade mounted at the back of the turntable? If so then the dirt is filling the blade and getting "jammed" under the turn table and lifting the blade out of the cut and won't cut until emptied. This is worst in heavier wet soils. Gravel/sand is not a problem

 

[Baby Grand]

3RRL has offered some great box blade instructionals - here's one that shows his dual tilt setup (post #12):
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/99242-boxblade-road-gutter-maintenance-2.html
There is a link to his tilt cylinder install thread in that post, too.

 

[JohnMacca]

The tractor has to be in the ditch with a box blade. You are saying that the left side won't go deep enough? You should be able to get roughly a 10* cut. The second time through you would then be at about 20*. I would not want to be going through a 3rd time. I would not want to even clean out a 20* cut with a std wheeled machine. :no:

QUOTE]

Brian, as I was reading this thread and saw your querying the need to get a deeper cut, I was thinking, well what's wrong with that?

I had to laugh out loud when I saw your explanation above, because I had that exact light bulb moment only yesterday.:ashamed:

I was going to clean out an old ditch drain with my rear blade and thought "I'm going to have to get a lot of tilt on the blade to match that angle in the ditch". I don't have the luxury of hydraulic tilt so spent 15 mins moving the pins on the blade (and swearing and sweating) to lift one side and lower the other the maximum I could(3 mounting holes on each side).

I drove up to the start of the ditch, dropped the blade and took off, pleased that I had this job sorted. Then - holy **** why I am I gouging out so much dirt?

Of course, I had not realised that the tractor would already be on the angle - another rookie mistake, no harm done, but just goes to show its easy to outthink yourself when you are not too smart to start with! :laughing:

 

[ovrszd]

When I added my tilt cylinder I moved the adjustable link to the other side. This allows me, with some manual adjustment, to get the full benefit from my tilt cylinder.

I understand what Bruce is saying. I always try to cut with the cylinder end of the BB. It just works better. Better response and better angle.

Where I would use a tilt cylinder on the other side the most would be with my 10ft 3pt brush cutter. I'm on uneven terrain a lot. I'd like to be able to raise/lower either side of the cutter. Just haven't wanted it bad enough to spend the money.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When I added my tilt cylinder I moved the adjustable link to the other side. This allows me, with some manual adjustment, to get the full benefit from my tilt cylinder.

I understand what Bruce is saying. I always try to cut with the cylinder end of the BB. It just works better. Better response and better angle.

Where I would use a tilt cylinder on the other side the most would be with my 10ft 3pt brush cutter. I'm on uneven terrain a lot. I'd like to be able to raise/lower either side of the cutter. Just haven't wanted it bad enough to spend the money.

Richard, if your side link is set up so that the rod is extended half way to be level, you get the same angle of cut to either side. Yes the downward movement is greater on the cylinder side, but that downward movement is matched by the upward movement, so the actual angle is the same cutting to the right or left sides. The only difference is that the entire hitch has to move further downward if cutting on the opposite side of the cylinder, the angle is the same.